I had the Trans Failsafe prog message first come up a couple of weeks ago but it still drove fine and has until today. Then on a hill it wouldn't pull away and then this message came up. It eventually moved and I limped home.

I live Near Berkhamsted, on the Beds Bucks and Herts borders. Does anyone know anyone in one of these counties who would give a diagnosis and and then be able to repair at an affordable price.

This is my first RR. Had it about 4 months. 54 plate 2.9 Diesel. It has been regularly serviced and had new gear box and torque converter in 2011

Thanks in advance for any help and advice from anyone.

DD

If it happens again, stop, turn the ignition off and pull the key out. Then restart the engine and the error should have gone and it will drive fine.

That'll keep you moving until you can get it seen too.  

Budgie wrote:

If it happens again, stop, turn the ignition off and pull the key out. Then restart the engine and the error should have gone and it will drive fine.

That'll keep you moving until you can get it seen too.

TFSP error on mine was cleared by cycling the ignition 10-12 times. Only moving backwards though actually sounds like front diff problem where the shaft strips the spline. Did you check the car had the factory recall to fit re-engineered part for front diff ?

If it is this don't worry as it is a well understood job by most LR specialists.

If it isn't the diff then I would test the battery. Getting a new one certainly helped my FF stop producing so many errors.

TtheArab wrote:

TFSP error on mine was cleared by cycling the ignition 10-12 times. Only moving backwards though actually sounds like front diff problem where the shaft strips the spline. Did you check the car had the factory recall to fit re-engineered part for front diff ?

If it is this don't worry as it is a well understood job by most LR specialists.

If it isn't the diff then I would test the battery. Getting a new one certainly helped my FF stop producing so many errors.

I am afraid we are looking at faulty box here (i know it had been reconditioned but...)
description fits:
when there is a lot metal filings inside the box, the oil pump pick the m up and block filter
(lost of drive) when car cool down and metal filings fall down you can drive (short while)
Changing oil and filter will help (short term, but its not a fix !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)

Other possibilities T/Box lost calibration, or one of front half shafts pops out from diff
very unlikely in your case
,

^^^^^^

I didn't want to be the one to say that but it sure sounds like it.

Might also be blocked cooler? (see SaintV8's replacement on wiki)

(You were on a hill so is fluid level an issue?)

Unless you can DIY, off to dealers/indie for fluid check and fluid/filter exchange as a first effort to resolve and some diagnosis on Testbook. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Guys not to say your opinion is any less valid but from what OP has shared your assumption that the box has gone is a tad OTT. We all know the FF is a pain in the ass with error messages calculated to send you into meltdown which can be from something as simple as a bad connector or low battery.

Let's not scare the poor lad to death here. I would say go at this systematically and test :-

1. Battery - thread is on here how to do that
2. Transfer Box Motor - RRPhil has a thread on here and whilst its a bit more involved even I managed it

After that if its still not sorted go to an indie and ask them to put diags on it using genuine LR tester v's cheaper one (cheaper one cant diag Transfer Motor etc).

Fingers crossed it isn't the box.

Final thought : do you have the papers from the box replacement ? Might be worth chasing them up ?

Thanks chaps for all your comments and ideas. I do still have the paperwork. Invoice dated March 2011. Technician comments at the time were (and does sound a little similar now)

Investigate for no drive - Suspect gearbox failure carried out diagnostic checks found engine output speed greater than gearbox output shaft speed, confirmed gearbox clutch slipping due to torque converter failure, requires new gearbox and torque converter.
Removed gearbox and reconditioned fitted new torque converter, oil cooler and cooler pipes due to contamination.

Its done 35K miles since then. They gave a warranty for 12 moths/12000 miles. If they were a little nearer I would have approached them.

Shame has had been enjoying driving it very much last few months and is in great condition both inside and out. Fingers crossed it isn't the worse case scenario.

DD

Before you commit to another gearbox get in touch with RRPhil. It sounds more than a bit "unlucky" for another gearbox to go after only 35k.

Not certain but i think RRphil is more a ZF/Petrol Gearbox man, not a GM box expert. Try him anyway as he knows Sh@tloads more than most!

Update:
Diagnotic test says 3rd gear is slipping.
Car being transferred to specilist gearbox hospital later
Not feeling hopeful.

Oh dear..... I would be all over the guys that did the replacement despite the 12 mths thing. I suspect if they are a reputable crew they would be pretty mortified that this has happened.

Good luck.

TtheArab wrote:

Oh dear..... I would be all over the guys that did the replacement despite the 12 mths thing. I suspect if they are a reputable crew they would be pretty mortified that this has happened.

Good luck.

It seems there's huge variability in the quality of gearbox rebuilds.