I have a mate's L322 here (been here for weeks) that I am quickly losing all remaining patience with. He had the AA bring it here, dead.

Checked it over - no fuel pressure. Reading just 1 bar from the fuel pressure sensor (reading the live data with a Snap On Solus Pro).

So I checked there was fuel pressure reaching the filter - and there was.

I changed the filter.

I added another electrical rotor cell fuel pump right before the filter - this brought the fuel pressure up to 3 bar (still nowhere near enough).

I changed the solenoid on the back of the pump.

I changed the entire pump (Autodata claims a 1 hour job. my backside it is.)

I even tried unplugging the fuel pressure sender, and it still shows the same.

There is still no sign of any fuel in the fuel rail.

Any suggestions that don't involve a gallon of petrol and a box of matches?

Thanks.

So just to recap,

You have checked the Primary pump(beside the tank)
It pumps ok?

You have checked the intank pump is not bodging up and not balancing correctly(these tend to show up when under 1/3 of a tank full
And thats ok?

You have checked the High Pressure Pump(is this the one you replaced?)
And thats ok?

If you can give me the live pressure readings your seeing when cranking i can compare to mine and see if the low pressure side is the issue or high pressure.

If is the high pressure side there could be a few things.

if an injector has failed they can go in such a way as to bleed the fuel rail off at crank speed and starting is then not possible. A squirt of easy start gets the tickover speed up enough to keep fuel rail pressure high enough to overcome this though. FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Fuel pressure reading at all times is just over 1 bar - 1.05-1.1. Only time it got higher was when I added an extra electric pump before the fuel filter, then it read 3 bar.

I'm aware of the problem with injectors leaking off too much - I had this exact same issue on one of my Fiat Multiplas - Easy start got it running, then it ran fine.

Doesn't appear to be the case here, I can run the RR off of Easy start, but it never transitions to running on it's own - not even close.

And yes, I have replaced the high pressure pump.

The owner of this vehicle is prone to running it on fumes constantly. I'm sure that's a factor in its failure!

do you get ANY pressure at all on the high side while cranking or running on easy start? FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Nope. It never goes much above 1 bar.

http://www.fullfatrr.com/gallery/albums/us...elling.pdf

That should show you what even a poorly TD6 should be getting near at idle...

If the HP pump has gone and your confident enough there are rebuild kits for them.

I can get hold of recon ones for £425 from a friend in the trade on an exchange basis and warranted for 12months as well if needed. FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

I've already replaced the HP pump with a good used one.

I also already have a repair kit left over from a previous pump that wasn't used.

Even with a good used pump it's still showing nothing. (1 bar)

What was used for those figures? The Snap On Solus doesn't show the pressure of the low pressure circuit anywhere that I've seen - only the fuel rail (HP) side.

You have to suspect the rail sensor then TBH.... FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

You need to know the low pressure reading.

The system diverts the fuel away from the HP pump to avoid damage if it is too low which it sounds like yours is doing. As I'm sure you already know, modern diesel HP pumps are cooled by a good fuel supply from the LP side.

The LP reading should be between 2 and 5 Bar.

The HP side should be at least 250 Bar.

Hi,

My 2003 TD6, have a similar problem.... LP reading is 3,78bar with ignition on, and goes 3,60bar when crank. No pressure at Rail at least my icarsoft 930 get 0bar.
Change the pressure control valve in the back of the HP but no fuel pass to rail.
Get a "fuel pressure monitoring while starting" error in the scan tool, can anyone help some way?

Thanks

Ayrshore, you do know the TD6 has 3 fuel pumps, don't you?

N�1 in fuel tank to circulate fuel between both sides of the saddle tank and just lift it out.
N�2 under floor beneath left rear seat to pressurize the feed to the filter and engine.
N�3 at rear of engine to pressurize the common rail.

If N�2 has failed you will only get ~1 bar from N�1, too low to feed N�3. This is a common failure at 10 years +.
Cheap enough on ebay - RANGE ROVER L322 3.0 TD6 (BMW) NEW REMOTE IN LINE ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP - WFX000181

Check out this post for 'how to' change out the pump (includes quick fix too).
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic35481.html

bye.

Last edited by bgennette on 23rd Dec 2017 9:33pm. Edited 1 time in total

Had exactly the same problem last week. Changed no2 pump - all good now. 2003 TD6 SE model with EGR removed
2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee - drowned!
2002 Nissan X Trail - Passed away
1997 BMW E36 323i Conv. My spare for summer use!

No 2 pump direction ok? 2010 3.6tdv8 180k km.
sold 06 td6 160k
Sold 03 td6 260k

umitbat,

Are you asking which direction does the pump face?
If so then the answer is BACKWARDS ! The inlet faces towards the engine while the outlet faces the rear.

Weird I know, but that's how the plumbing is laid out.

bye. 2003 TD6, EGR delete, vortex crankcase breather update, performance chip, UHF 2 way, Android head unit, crash camera on dash, always-on rear view camera to mirror screen, LED DRL`s, Electric trailer brake controller. FSR replaced. Pulling 3T caravan all about Australia