Over the weekend I changed the thermostats on my car. I had a real problem removing the viscous fan and was concerned the force needed may have damaged the water pump or its spindle. There had been a strange vibration/thrumming noise at over 3,000rpm. I was also concerned their was a slight wobble on the fan when idling.

Today the car spectacularly failed, first thing I noticed was the coolant temperature rising quickly to 110c, then there was no heat from the heaters, the battery light flickered, as I turned into a junction the steering went heavy and it stalled with plumes of steam from the bonnet. With no torch I had to wait until now to try and diagnose the problem but I had my suspicions.

The auxilary belt from the fan has partially shredded losing tension and water is pouring from the around the water pump housing.

I don't have a working lap top and rely on an Ipad to access the web, meaning I have no access to rave so I am desperate for some help.

I am in the dark on the next steps:

From looking at the water pumps on ebay, it looks like its mounted to the front of the engine by four bolts and a straightforward unbolt and bolt. Has anyone any experience of its replacement?

It also looks like there are two auxiliary belts, one that services the steering, water pump and alternator. I assume the tension is adjusted by moving the alternator in the usual manner or is their a separate adjustment?

Has anyone any experience of changing the belt which may help me?

As i mentioned i am going in blind, i am comfortable with strippingthe car down to get to thet stat, the stages beyond that are unknown. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated

Cheers 2012 4.4TDV8 VSE
2004 TD6 132k miles- SOLD
1995 Land Rover Defender 110 Tithonus Ex Military
1995 Land Rover Discovery 3.9i V8 manual

There's a web based version of rave in the wiki. iPad friendly!  [img]http://www.fuelly.com/driver/rob2529/range-rover[img/]
04, 4.4V8, Vogue Oslo Blue with LPG.
"You can sleep in your car, BUT you can't race your house!!!!"

If something can't be fixed with a hammer....... You have yourself an electrical fault!

I think the part number is PEB000050G

Thanks

Having looked at that I can't find reference to the procedures for the water pump and belts on a td6 only the V8. 2012 4.4TDV8 VSE
2004 TD6 132k miles- SOLD
1995 Land Rover Defender 110 Tithonus Ex Military
1995 Land Rover Discovery 3.9i V8 manual

I would think the radiator would need to come out to allow access as it's rather tight in there

To get at coolant pump looks like same procedure as thermostat, apart from the need to remove the ancillaries belt

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Thanks for the help.

I have removed the pump, it is straight forward but you can't see where you are working. four torx bolts and it wiggles off with the radiator in place. Plenty of room. I have also established how you release the tension on the air con pulley and pumps drive belt too before seeing your post.

The pump impeller has broken down into bits! there were some fragments of metal in the pump housing but not a lot left.

The car lost its coolant very quickly and I am hoping they were washed out! One the impeller has gone the pressure in the system must be lost instantly which I hope means they have nt worked their way round far.

Not sure what I can do other than try flushing the system where I can. Maybe run the car on water for a bit then drop that out and hope I get most of it out.

I now am off to get a pump and two new belts. 2012 4.4TDV8 VSE
2004 TD6 132k miles- SOLD
1995 Land Rover Defender 110 Tithonus Ex Military
1995 Land Rover Discovery 3.9i V8 manual

Done some more research. The plastic impeller had fallen off as I took the pump of, the metal is from the bearing. 2012 4.4TDV8 VSE
2004 TD6 132k miles- SOLD
1995 Land Rover Defender 110 Tithonus Ex Military
1995 Land Rover Discovery 3.9i V8 manual

If it were me I'd flush the system in both directions and leave it a good 10 minutes each way to do it. Also take the chance to flush your rad out and get any gunk from the bottom out.

Then get a load of de-ionised water from the supermarket and some good anti freeze and top the system up with the right amount of antifreeze, then top off with de-ion water  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Thanks. I have been running a hose through every easily removable pipe to clear what I can. I intend to run it up to temp with water and drain down again before adding antifreeze.

Pump and new belts are now on, but need to plumb the egr, turbo ducts, fan back on so will have to finish at the weekend.

Fitting the alternator belt back on was fiddly and the gap between the water pump pulley wheel and the thermostat housing are very close. It's making me paranoid now that something else will go wrong!

My advice to anyone attempted a viscous fan removal is to get a long 32 mm, able to provide good leverage. Would make it a much easier job than using two halfords fan scanners like I did. 2012 4.4TDV8 VSE
2004 TD6 132k miles- SOLD
1995 Land Rover Defender 110 Tithonus Ex Military
1995 Land Rover Discovery 3.9i V8 manual

The problem is you do need a skinny spanner to fit on the back "holding nut", and you are right, the Halfords fan spanner is just not long enough to get purchase. I bought a proper 32mm (monster) for the nut on the fan.

Click image to enlarge

Our advice then to others is get a decent 32mm spanner, I went into halfords originally to see if they had any. They said they only stock up to 19mm, then the lady said he'd check. She came back saying they had a 33mm one!!

The fan spanner has a 36mm end which will do the oil filter too. 2012 4.4TDV8 VSE
2004 TD6 132k miles- SOLD
1995 Land Rover Defender 110 Tithonus Ex Military
1995 Land Rover Discovery 3.9i V8 manual

Interesting, on mine, the "fan nut" was 32mm and oil filter cover 35mm ? .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

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