Hi Folks - Not actually about the RR but my other car but I think the same would apply. I don't use it that often and continually have a flat battery (after 5 or 6 weeks of non use) so want to know the best way to store it. Should I disconnect the pos or neg terminal to the battery until I want to use it or does it not matter which.

The reason I ask is that the neg terminal is much easier to get to to whip the lead on and off but want to check its ok to do it like that (leaving the pos lead connected)

Thanks Ash
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2016 SDV8 AB

Negative terminal off will do the job.
Have you considered fitting a battery isolating switch? If there is room for one much easier than removing the battery terminal each time.

That would be fine you should always disconnect the neg terminal first or if you touch the body with the spanner still touching the pos terminal you would cause a short circuit large bang and flash which could cause damage to you the spanner and all the electrical circuits
Roger

Or hook it up to a trickle charger would be another option. Lloyd Barnes

Current
Crendon 427 Sideoiler Cobra in build... 7 litres of madness!

Gone
2008 TDV8 Vogue - Black with Ivory/Grand Black Lacquer
2008 VW Touareg 3.0Tdi
6.3litre Dax Cobra - 12.34 Second 1/4mile at 114mph

With my M5, I did about 1000 miles the last year I had it. The battery was under the rear seat, so I run a mains lead (like the one on a kettle or a PC) into the boot. I then put the female bit onto my trickle charger and connected them up easily in the boot. The boot still shut OK and the car was topped up as needed.

Worked for me.

If you disconnect it, will it not still discharge over time ? 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

Depends what the car is and where its going to be stored. If its inside then i'd ensure its cleaned really well and waxed and gloss to hell then raise it off its wheels and let the tyres down a little so as not to stretch them anymore, protect the tyre walls with tyre shine stuff and all the rubber seals. Then disconnect the battery and still use a trickle charger but also get a battery jacket on it too

A good car cover as well thats wool or soft lined on the inside is good even for inside conditions and ensuring the inside is clear as can be, hoovered to hell and all dust picked up with a microfibre damp cloth. Dont let the steering lock either and leave in neutral. If its an old petrol car with carbs, I'd put a tiny amount of engine oil into each chamber as saves any sticky pistons and makes for an easier start when it comes back to bring it back to life.

This is more for long term storage but some is still applicable if you park your car up for winter or the like  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

PS any battery that can be charged should be fully charged when its not going to be used for a while regardless of what type it is as its just best practice  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

How long are your leaving it?
I don't use my GT-R over winter when the weather is bad, so it sits undercover with a CTEK charger attached.
For around £50 the CTEK chargers are very good and the best out there for the job IMO.
You don't even have to disconnect the battery from the car.

Thanks for the replies guys. It's actually my Mercedes CLK Cabriolet. Like Fox, I don;t use it in the winter months much but do on occasion take it out if it's dry and bright.

It is clean and waxed (and hoovered) with a car cover over it but as I do use it (very occasionally) I haven't gone to the extreme of letting tyres down and jacking up on stands.

I did find my solar trickle charger yesterday so have put that on now to see if it keeps it topped up after I did a full battery recondition. (I think it drains it flat and then fully charges it up to remove the battery "memory")

We'll see how it goes with that. Interestingly I put the full charger on it and got nothing, no reading at all. I then jumped the car with a spare battery I have (charged to 80%) and it started first time and left it running for 10 mins or so while I pottered around it. Turned if off and it wouldn't start on it's own battery but did turn over. Put the charger back on and it then showed 60% charged.? Very strange but guess the alternator did put some back into it once it was going.

Thanks Ash
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2016 SDV8 AB

Kingpleb, when I'm a billionaire I'm going to get you to maintain my car collection.

Cheers fella I just need to work on the outside stuff as I'm far from an exterior detailer but i do tend to spend more hours than i think on the inside... Though to me that's more important as i spend more time inside it than outside! FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

I would definately use somethiing like an Optimate charger, this only charges when needed so is a fit and forget item, give the car a good clean and grease any parts likely to seize up. One day your life will flash before your eyes......................................make sure yours is worth watching!

I keep a C-Tek on my Rover and have done for the past 9 years and it works a treat.

I use one of these for my, motor bikes, The TVR when i had it.
Never let me down.

I have an optimate for my bikes which aren't really used in winter. They're wired in so it's a simple plug in connection.