![]() | Home > Technical (L322) > Replacing drop links / anto rollbar links |
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47p2 Member Since: 05 Oct 2010 Location: Gone Beyond, Subaru Posts: 8048 ![]() ![]() |
Drop link goes from the strut to the anti-roll-bar
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CG-SC Member Since: 06 May 2011 Location: Falkirk Posts: 528 ![]() ![]() |
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tomthevet Member Since: 14 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 283 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Something interesting happened the other day when I removed one of my drop links to check for wear in the ball joints and found I had to put the suspension into fullheight setting otherwise the bottom joint was under tension. In other words the nut could be undone but couldnt remove the threaded portion unless the car was in off road setting. The same when replacing (having ordered 2 new ones in the meantime!).
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northernmonkeyjones Member Since: 24 Mar 2012 Location: derby Posts: 8680 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
^^ i suppose that if one of the wheels was even slightly higher than the other then there would be some tortional stress on the roll bar. So the suspension calibration would have to be dead on and the floor dead level to have the roll bar under equal torsion on both wheels.
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ambulancekidd Member Since: 29 Feb 2012 Location: Ayrshire Scotland Posts: 276 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Very easy job to do, even for DIY beginners. Just remember to take careful note of the position of the specially hardened washers mate. The reason women's minds are cleaner than a mans mind is that women change their minds more often!
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tomthevet Member Since: 14 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 283 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Sorry I wasnt asking how I was asking about the apparent preload on the bar. On any other car I have done the ARB has been in a neutral position regardless of load as long as the wheels are level. I think maybe northern monkey is right in that although it looked level it wasnt. |
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Joe90 Member Since: 29 Apr 2010 Location: Hampshire Posts: 6416 ![]() ![]() |
Whether you take the wheels off or not, you need an 18mm longish socket & breaker bar/ratchet and an open ended 18mm spanner.
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tomthevet Member Since: 14 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 283 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Am I going mental here? Maybe I have been working too hard. |
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edward.barry Member Since: 26 Aug 2011 Location: Cavan Posts: 37 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Hi Folks, did the drop links myself recently, handy enough, except I didn't take note or the position of the washers, anybody know off hand how they are supposed to be positioned. Regards Ed 0-60 takes 5 and a half seconds...and about 17 gallons of fuel.... Current fleet 2005 RR td6 1997 300 Discovery 2005 Subaru Legacy Outback (the wife's) 1981 2.5 Opel Commodore |
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Joe90 Member Since: 29 Apr 2010 Location: Hampshire Posts: 6416 ![]() ![]() |
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edward.barry Member Since: 26 Aug 2011 Location: Cavan Posts: 37 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Thanks Joe, as my memory isn't what it used to be do you remember, nut or bolt side of the drop link? Now if I could just remember where I abandoned the car. Ed 0-60 takes 5 and a half seconds...and about 17 gallons of fuel....
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Googsy Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Where men are men and sheep are nervous. Posts: 2947 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Im doing mine today. I believe washers are bolt side not the nut side. |
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Joe90 Member Since: 29 Apr 2010 Location: Hampshire Posts: 6416 ![]() ![]() |
The hardened washer goes on the ball joint side (you are normally helped by the markings left on the washer which show the "flats" on the bolt). There is only one washer (?), for the top joint on the front drop links.
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Richcl Member Since: 23 Sep 2010 Location: Tewkesbury, Glos Posts: 1011 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
If it hasn't be said, buy genuine, fit once and forget (well for a few years) |
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