Thanks robbo770 !!

I purchased a stud remover as you suggested. Halfords had one but too big - need the smaller size i think, which only comes in a twin pack with the larger one (about £40).

"Laser 4393 Impact Stud Extractor Set 2pc"

Bit of a fiddle to get on but it got the bolt out no bother!!

Fortunately was the lower torx bolt as can get direct access to it with wheel off. If the top one is seized too - i don't think this approach will work - sorry nubbin.

Thanks again for the advice...

Never mind - glad its working out for you. Mine is booked in with a local mechanic tomorrow and he is going to check all the front suspended bushes for wear as well as hopefully replacing the valve.

Mine is currently getting this done, bottom torx head is sheared off, top one untouched as yet. Garage suggested cutting the mounting lugs off the old part then trying to free off the old screws with molegrips or similar. Only problem is if they can't get them out then the rack will need to be dropped out! Undecided as to what to do next as I need the car for a run down to Donnington at the weekend.Although they may come off when the old unit is slid off, I really don't know what to do!

That's what's happening to mine tomorrow. The bolts are rusted solid so wrecking the old unit is the only answer. About 2-3 hours work. Still the suspension is fine.

Tally ho!just away to phone them to proceed with caution, will be smiling or crying shortly !

Oh well , garage now too busy today, he is worried that if it all goes wrong his ramp will have a broken ffrr on it until they can drop the rack, so I put up with lumpy low speed steering until either je has time for it or I find someone else in the meantime . Joy !nubbin, can you give me a report on your mechanic's progress for any tips/tricks he uses please?

the garage will be the best place for your range if that screw is tight in there...i can see that i was very luck mine came off so easily when mine was done.. ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
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MrT while your waiting why don't you get the servo sprayed with WD40. Can't but help when you do get into he garage. People think because WD40 was sprayed on something 30sec previous it should be free. In reality it can take a while and if you have time might save you lots of ££ in the long run. I'm going to spray mine and I don't even have a problem, but just in case might save me a big ball ache! [img]http://www.fuelly.com/driver/rob2529/range-rover[img/]
04, 4.4V8, Vogue Oslo Blue with LPG.
"You can sleep in your car, BUT you can't race your house!!!!"

If something can't be fixed with a hammer....... You have yourself an electrical fault!

Mix a little diesel and ATF fluid together and use that as a freeing agent

Also before loosening the bolt tighten it up just a fraction, this helps break the rusty seal on the threads

Last edited by 47p2 on 13th Jul 2012 10:51am. Edited 1 time in total

Ball burst for today , garage booked solid !

Well I decided that as the FFRR was up on the ramp I would try and remove the bolts for my Servotronic valve. I soaked them in a diesel/ATF mix overnight and today I started the process of loosening them. You need a T20 Torx and using an L shaped Alan-Key type Torx I managed to remove the top one without too much hassle.

T20 Torx L-shape

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i can confirm that the new servotronic valve does indeed come with 2 brand new screws...  ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
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So do you have the two new ones kicking around or even the old ones lying abandoned somewhere?

valve was done ages ago john so i doubt it.. ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
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Well, My trusty mechanic has replaced the valve, and hey presto - it has made no difference at all to the steering shakes at 60-70mph

However, it has made a huge difference to the steering feel - much lighter at parking speeds, and any slight judder has gone, and it has actually allowed tighter turns in car parks etc. So not altogether a waste of time.

The interesting thing is that the juddering only occurs when turning left e.g after overtaking on the motorway, and not on turning right. Could be an engine torque thing, but the hydraulics should be as good as new at the moment, so the power steering pressure shouldn't be that marginal! Hopefully it's a dodgy nearside front wheel.

The next thing is to swap onto my Winter wheels and tyres, as I know the current wheels are not quite as round as they should be despite being balanced very carefully. The Winter wheels and tyres are all new, and I can't remember the shuddering appearing when they were on the car - but could be an expensive solution if I have to replace the 20" wheels...