Hmmm..

I've not been idle for the last half hour. A few phone calls the RR owning chums and family reveals:

200. - 2 cars
140. - 2 cars.

So - still undecided. All 4 are petrols by the way!

Last edited by Simes on 26th Jun 2012 8:53pm. Edited 1 time in total

The petrol runs the coolant at a higher pressure, and the lower cap cant handle it. Been there ... bought the t-shirt.

get the higher one. V8 or else ...

I should get the 200 in the list tomorrow.

Seems like there is a fair mixture of opinion across the interwebs on this one though - or a lot of cars running happiy with the wrong one!

I agree on the 200. MIne is a 2003 built in late 2002. To be on the safe side after the top radiator hose popped off last winter (due to plastic end rim material malfunction) as routine I ordered a new pressure cap as a safety measure. I received a 140 and all forum posts I saw mentioned 140. I had trouble after this with the cap releasing slight amounts of fluid. Now six months later after I have considered replacing a lot of cooling components I by chance looked at my old cap and saw it was rated at 200 ! I replace the 140 with my old 200 and the problems disappeared. Ok hose pressure is high. I will at least replace the top hose with a new one I got. What I think happens with a 140 on cars that have issues with it is that the fluid that seeps out means pressure gets reduced with increases the risk for boiling in hoses which creates gases in the hose which adds to the tendency for the cap to open, and so on... Could it be that the 140 cap is to be run in combination with some other part revision of expansion tank or other item ? /gunnar L322 Vogue V8 -03 Giverny Green

I came to this conclusion as well. Nobody however told why they wanted to change from the 140 ?

In my case the 140 opens and spills out some coolant which reduces hose pressure and rises the tendency for the coolant to reach a boiling point. This creates gases in the hose and the tendency for the 140 to open further, and so on.
It looks similar to that you could suspect a head gasket leak but apparently is due to the wrong pressure cap rating.
I put back my old 200 cap and then nothing seeps out. Until maybe one day a radiator hose blows. That is the game of running thee 105 degree celcius engines. Keep your hoses fresh. /gunnar L322 Vogue V8 -03 Giverny Green

I've got a 140 on mine! surely it's been on there from the factory - else why would the previous owner have replaced it with a lower rated one? Sigh...how much is a 200 one then? 2003 Vogue 4.4 V8 Java Black

140 on mine, but it is a TD6

Bit confused here as most parts suppliers say mine should be a 140 - this website states certain m62 engined l322 up to a certain VIN - 1A001049 should be the 200 cap and after that they should all be the 140 cap

http://www.4x4parts.co.uk/cooling/radiator...0_456.html 2003 Vogue 4.4 V8 Java Black

Could it be that authorized dealers have some procedure for replacing 200 caps with 140 that involves more than simply swapping caps ? DIY owners do not have access to recent service bulletins and there could be programming or other mods involved in the 140 rating change. Such as for example requiring a later revision expansion tank as well, or that the dual mode thermostat is made to reduce temps to some extent by controlling the thermostat pre-heater in a new way ? /gunnar L322 Vogue V8 -03 Giverny Green

Tuts wrote:

Bit confused here as most parts suppliers say mine should be a 140 - this website states certain m62 engined l322 up to a certain VIN - 1A001049 should be the 200 cap and after that they should all be the 140 cap

http://www.4x4parts.co.uk/cooling/radiator...0_456.html

I am sure there is more to it. All the parts manuals seem to say it should be 140 after VIN 1A001049 - which seems to be a pre-production number as all the mechanics I've spoken too say they've never seen one below 2AXXXXXX - so who knows what's really happening.

My VIN: 5A193112
200 cap.
US-spec 4.4L BMW M62 petrol. Jim
2000 NAS HSE
2005 NAS HSE

Hi from oz I've just gone through the same thing my rr v8 140 cap just kept weeping water after the car turned off I spoke to my best pal daveo who told me that my early l322 may need a 280 which I couldn't get here so I settled with a 200 and the problems solved how ever if I leave the car running on the drive for three hours dosnt get hot now if I drive it normal up and down through the gears all good but when I blast it the temp goes straight to red for seconds then when I slow the temp goes back to normal I'm all confused has any one had the same probz cheers mark

Marko wrote:

when I blast it the temp goes straight to red for seconds then when I slow the temp goes back to normal I'm all confused has any one had the same probz cheers mark

Sounds like a dodgy stat to me. The way it's shooting up then coming down. Think a new stat is about £40-50. [img]http://www.fuelly.com/driver/rob2529/range-rover[img/]
04, 4.4V8, Vogue Oslo Blue with LPG.
"You can sleep in your car, BUT you can't race your house!!!!"

If something can't be fixed with a hammer....... You have yourself an electrical fault!