Hello all
Is there a special way to jack up my ff. The jack that came with the car
Has broken
I've used bottle and trolley jacks but the suspension seems to just keep on
going.
Any info would be welcom
Thank mark

Jack it under any unsprung part of the car and it'll go up fine.

You'll need a reasonably hefty trolley jack though. Just don't buy the Halfords quick-lift one which is £50-ish, it weighs a ton, and it needs massive lever pressure to raise the car despite being rated at something like 3 tonnes! I have an ancient, and frankly falling apart, little old trolley (as in, spproaching 30 years old) and it's still much better!!

Sorry when you say unspung wher about
Mark

EDITED read later posts NOT RECOMMENDED
{At the rear, under the wishbones
At the front under the hub}

use lots of packing, and always support with axle stands, never just on the jack.


FWIW I use my ancient trolley jack (3 tonner) on the standard jacking points under the body, but pack out below it with a couple of short scaffold planks. I get enough lift to get a wheel off the ground. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Last edited by Joe90 on 27th Mar 2012 9:07pm. Edited 2 times in total

RAVE explicitly states not to jack under the wishbones.

The easiest thing to do is to use a trolley jack on the jacking points, with a small block of wood between the jack pad and the jacking point.

You can optionally jack the front from the centre to lift both wheels at the same time. There's a flat point on the subframe just behind the plastic undertray. At the rear, RAVE states it is ok to jack from the centre of the towbar but I've never tried that (or fancied doing it to be honest).

You need to lock the Suspension in "Off Road" height by leaving the tailgate open.

In this height setting the wheels will not droop when you start jacking.

Last edited by Gazellio @ Prestige Cars on 27th Mar 2012 5:57pm. Edited 1 time in total

Here's what RAVE says:

DO NOT POSITION JACKS OR AXLE STANDS
UNDER THE FOLLOWING COMPONENTS:
l Body structure other than approved jacking
points
l Bumpers
l Fuel lines
l Fuel tank
l Brake lines
l Front or rear suspension arms
l Transfer box
l Steering linkage
l Front or rear differential units
l Engine sump
l Automatic gearbox


Can't see why you would want to advise someone to do something that the official workshop manual explicitly states should not be done.

That's a fair comment and I withdraw my post. The Suspension arms are quite delicate but properly protected with soft flat wood it is the quickest way to jack but as you say NOT RECOMMENDED as you may well damage your car.

I'm with you Gaz. Always jacked on the lower suspension arms using a proper trolley jack with a soft pad. Never damaged a car yet.

RAVE has to account for idiots who might decide to use a scissor jack, you know, like the thing LR supply with the car. That would definitely be a bad thing to do.

What is it about rules being for the guidance of a wise man, and the blind obedience of a fool ??

I was only posting from experience probably jacked 40 Range Rovers this way over the years never damaged one in any way but its NOT RECOMMENDED - don't do it.

My 2010 RRS was being serviced last week by a well known Nationwide LR dealer when it slipped off the lift while the wheels were removed. They have lent me a TDV8 Vogue while they assess the damage and I am seriously tempted

My handbook states -

WARNINGS

Ensure that the air suspension is set to off-road height - this was not the case when the dealer lifted my RRS to view underside damage with suspension set at normal height

CAUTION

Only jack the vehicle using the jacking points described, or damage to the vehicle could occur



Had these instructions been followed with the lift type below everything should have been fine

When I lifted my FFRR, I used a High Lift 3 tonne jack on the usual jacking points just under the door sills....

It took a lot of travel to lift the wheel clear, but did manage it, just!!

Next time I will be looking to pack the jacking point with a block so the jack isn't quite at full reach....

Just an associated query, where would it be best to place an Axle Stand, as I placed one on the tubular Sub Frame and when I lowered onto it, it seemed like the car was going to rock the opposite side up, i.e. use the axle stand as a pivot like a see-saw...so I lowered weight onto the stand, but kept the jack in place for stability....I was only checking the ABS sensor, so didn't have it like that for too long....

Where is the best place for stands?? 

I must be the only one here who has never had a problem with the standard jack on all my vehicles, I just follow the instructions in the handbook and all is well (that's for either a one off blowout - or swapping all four wheels for my MT/R's) Land Rover Addict
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2009 5.0V8SC Autobiography
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2004 4.4V8 Vogue

I have swapped summer/winter wheels since I got my RRS without incident following handbook - used off road height setting and scissor jack provided under jacking points - never had a problem

I am no expert but the dealer should be  Wanted a Series 2 LR since childhood but previously owned MY16 Disco Sport HSE TD4 Auto, MY13 RR Sport Black Edition TDV6 Auto, MY10 RR Sport HSE TDV6 Auto, 2007 Freelander 1 Freestyle TD4 Soft Top, 2009 Freelander 2 GS TD4 Auto, 2007 Freelander 2 GS TD4, 2004 Disco 2 Metropolis Auto, 2002 Disco 2 GS, 2000 Freelander 1 SE TD4 SW

Still hoping for a S2 one day!

Quote:

Where is the best place for stands??

It is in Rave

Up front on the subframe just behind the lower wishbone, at the back, again on the subframe, forward of the suspension, or you can use the towbar bracket to take the weight. I tend to use a combination of jack and axle stands for safety, and often shove a wheel under the car too.

Easiest way to jack is to set off road height, and pack out underneath the jack with stable planks, and a small block between jack and jacking point. This way you have less travel on the jack, an easier lift and a more stable lift too.

Alternatively I would love to have a four post hydraulic lift, but then I would need a double height garage  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999