As above having probs with the beloved TD6 where the battery keeps dying, wondered if any of the diagnostic software would locate it? Or is it a case of pulling every fuse and putting in a tester in each slot?

Cheers

Unlikely as for the diagnostic to talk to the system, the system needs switched on, thus creating a drain.

The ECU's can be pretty power hungry too, so would mask out trickle drains.

Most common battery drainer is the resistor for the fan motors. Do a search and it'll be easy enough to find. V8 or else ...

re the final stage resistor, this might help mrblonde..

http://rswsolutions.com/index.php?option=c...;Itemid=78 ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
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If you want to check for battery drain on individual circuits buy one of these.
Very simple to use and accurate.
You can do the whole car in 30min. Very useful piece of kit.
Buy the max size, it fits the standard FFRR fuses.

Battery drain tester

thats a clever little gadget... ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
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cheers guys

I think my RR had the resistor done as a recall before I got it, am halfway through a house move so my paperworks all packed away, is there a simple way of checking to see if it was done? (i.e any check on the car itself?)

Got myself one of them fuse drain testers so will start going throguh them when i get a day off, what procedure should i use? was thinking if i open door, pull fuse, fit tester then close door, doesnt the RR take 15 mins to go to sleep? wouldnt that mean waiting 15 minutes everytime i check the next fuse port?

THanks again guys, and in advance as this may be a loooong thread

Diagnostic software doesn't actually do diagnostics - bit of a misnomer. All it does is read DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes) logged in the various systems. So, unless the system causing the batt drain is programmed to look for that particular fault the answer to your question is no.

Have to agree with Stan - nifty little tool - especially at that price. 
RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr,
P38, and 2 L322s
(wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too)

Cheers SteveMF
Im new to RR's so apologies in advance for the back to basic questions

"little" probs like this can be a real pita - especially when you have no time, in the middle of winter, and the car won't start.

Good luck! 
RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr,
P38, and 2 L322s
(wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too)

Nail on the head there Steve!
Thanks so far guys, won't get a chance to search for the drain til the weekend...

One thing I did notice is the red flashing alarm light by rear view mirror is still flashing away, and when I put ignition on all dash lights came on, tv screen came on with correct time, let the glow plug light go out then turned key and nothing. Last time she didn't start no lights came on, and couldn't even turn the key one notch in the ingition? Any ideas what's different this time?

http://www.maplin.co.uk/automotive-current-tester-217879

is a dinky little product, but can't the same be achieved with a circuit tester or even two wires and an LED bulb? .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

go back 7 posts joe  ... - .- -.




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@mrblonde
When I checked my car using the Maplin tester I first of all photocopied the fuse spec pages from the owners manual so that I could record the current draw on each fuse as I went along.
With the ignition off and the door open I started at fuse 1 and found that there was no current registered. I carried on like this with the door open and found the vast majority of the fuses had no current draw at all.
The exceptions were fuses 49 and 57 each of which had a current draw of a few amps initially until I closed the door and then the currents dropped off rapidly to about 70mA which in the case of fuse 57 dropped off to 0 after about 30min.
Fuse 49 the sat nav / audio stayed at about 70mA for some reason. I did wonder whether or not this could be the result of water ingress, certainly the bits were wet at the time.
Haven't gone back since I have resolved that situation and allowed the area to dry out.
Don't forget there are fuses in the rear of the car.
One thing, this tester wont show current leakage back thro the alternator to earth when the ignition is switched off.

@Joe 90
Yes you can use a multimeter instead of the Maplin tester but given the position of the front fuse board it's a right pain.
Also you could use a light to show voltage across each fuse but this wouldn't show the level of current drain.

a) I haven't seen a red flashing alarm light by the rear view mirror (although the light may have changed position with model year)
b) The standard advice is to get the battery checked - the RR uses a lot of current and batteries rarely last 5 years
c) You haven't got a non factory fit immobiliser/ alarm have you (may relate to point a above) - this may be isolating the starter motor ?
d) When you get to the point of all the dashboard lights coming on - do all the lights go out when you turn the ignition key to position 2 or do they just dim ?

scarey wrote:

re the final stage resistor, this might help mrblonde..

http://rswsolutions.com/index.php?option=c...;Itemid=78