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==Basics== | ==Basics== | ||
- | :''' | + | Keeping your car looking amazing is fairly simple and doesn't take too much time but it's important to understand why paying the guys at the supermarket £5 to give it a quick wash with a dirty sponge once a month will ruin your paint |
- | :: | + | |
- | :: | + | Key things to remember are: |
- | :''' | + | |
- | :: | + | ''It's a lot quicker to put scratches in your paintwork than it is to get them out'' |
- | :: | + | |
- | :''' | + | ''A bit of wax every now and then won't hide months of neglect'' |
- | :: | + | |
- | :: | + | The steps are as follows: |
+ | |||
+ | :'''As often as possible''' | ||
+ | ::Wash | ||
+ | :'''Every 3-12 months depending on season''' | ||
+ | ::Clay - deep clean of the paint, leaving a spotless (but completely unprotected) finish | ||
+ | ::Polish - remove light scratches and put the shine back into the paint | ||
+ | ::Wax/Sealant - builds the shine and provides the paint with protection from the elements | ||
+ | :'''As necessary''' | ||
+ | ::::QD (Quick Detailng spray) - use it to remove bird droppings etc and give the car a quick polish | ||
+ | |||
==Washing== | ==Washing== | ||
+ | |||
+ | A really good write up of how to wash your car and a description of the 2-bucket method can be found [http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=4637 here] | ||
+ | |||
+ | The key to washing your car is to remove dirt, grime and salt without creating a lot of scratches in the paint. Done correctly this is the most important point to keeping your car looking good and the no. 1 rule is: | ||
+ | |||
+ | '''Do not use a sponge to wash your car''' | ||
+ | |||
+ | After driving around our car will have picked up lots of dirt and grit that's all sitting on top of the paint. If you use a sponge to clean it off, the dirt and grit will stick on the surface of the sponge and scratch your paintwork. Instead of a sponge you should use a lambswool wash mitt (easily picked up for less than a tenner). The deep pile on these absorbs the grit particles so that they're not scratching the paint. | ||
+ | |||
+ | The method I use is as follows (and it doesn't take as long as it looks). | ||
+ | |||
+ | :Pre-rinse with a pressure washer | ||
+ | :Snow foam | ||
+ | :Spray on wheel cleaner | ||
+ | :Have a cup of tea and let the foam do the work | ||
+ | :Brush the wheels | ||
+ | :Rinse with the pressure washer | ||
+ | :2 bucket-method wash | ||
+ | :Rinse with the pressure washer | ||
+ | :Dry with a towel | ||
+ | |||
+ | There are photos, details of the products used and further details on [http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic3657.html this thread] | ||
==Claying== | ==Claying== | ||
- | ==Polishing | + | Courtesy of RRUK - full thread [http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic563.html here] |
+ | |||
+ | The clay bar process involves 2 items, a soft putty like clay and a lubricating spray. | ||
+ | |||
+ | [http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3643/3363476452_e79e85ce27.jpg Picture of clean clay] | ||
+ | |||
+ | You spray a small part of the body panel with the lube spray and then glide the clay over the surface back and forth, then across back and forth. It's the easiest thing to do ever. | ||
+ | |||
+ | What happens is that your paintwork gets contaminants bonded in the paint surface that washing and polishing cannot remove, such as tree sap, insect residue, traffic film, tar etc. You can't generally see it, but trust me, its there. While the contaminants are there, your paint is never truly clean and your polishing and waxing is flawed. The clay picks it up off the surface. | ||
+ | |||
+ | When you look at the clay afterwards you can see it all. If you put a small sandwich bag on your finger and run it over the freshly washed paint you will feel tiny bumps, its these that the clay removes. You can also use it on glass and your alloys. | ||
+ | |||
+ | [http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3651/3363476380_eca9f11ede.jpg And after RRUK has pulled the invisible dirt out of his paint] | ||
+ | |||
+ | ==Polishing== | ||
+ | |||
+ | Polishing is the process used to physically remove light scratches and get the paint to a condition where it's ready for the last stage products i.e. waxes and sealants. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Polishing can be done by hand or by machine. Machine polishing gives better results and saves on elbow grease but requires more skill and there are risks if you get it wrong. | ||
===Hand=== | ===Hand=== | ||
+ | TBC | ||
+ | <!-- | ||
+ | |||
+ | Bit of autoglym SRP, applicator pad and microfibre cloth - do it on a windy day to get rid of the white dust from the SRP | ||
+ | |||
+ | --> | ||
===Machine=== | ===Machine=== | ||
+ | |||
+ | Courtesy of RRUK - full thread [http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic565.html here] | ||
+ | |||
+ | '''Equipment used for Polishing''' | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | Meguiars 3 stage paint system 3 bottles all for (£24) | ||
+ | Meguiars applicator pads (£3) | ||
+ | Cheap 100% Cotton towels (x3) (£10?) | ||
+ | Microfibre cloths (got a bulk pack in Costco for £14 for 36) | ||
+ | Porter Cable Random Orbital Polisher See below for prices (Shipped from USA) | ||
+ | Sonus pad kit for PC-ROP see below (Also from USA) | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | Using the Random Orbital Polisher I apply the Stage 1 Paint cleaner to get the dirt out of the paint. | ||
+ | Then I'll apply the Stage 2 Paint polish to bring out the colour depth. | ||
+ | Then I apply either the Stage 3 Carnauba Wax or the Gold class liquid wax. | ||
+ | |||
+ | At each stage I use the machine to apply the product then wipe/polish off with a clean cotton towel, then final buff using the microfibre cloth. (Without the machine you'd use the foam applicator pads but it takes longer) | ||
+ | |||
+ | If you wish to buy all the kit I bought then here's how: | ||
+ | |||
+ | [http://www.meguiars.co.uk www.meguiars.co.uk] | ||
+ | |||
+ | Some Meguiars stuff can be bought from Halfords in the UK now, but its a limited range - use the Meguiars forum from the website to hear about the best ways to use products etc. I have heard the new product called NXT Tech Wax range is good too. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Porter Cable Random Orbital Polisher 7424 | ||
+ | (The Random orbital Polisher is NOT the same as those cheap ones in B&Q -they are not random orbital, they simply spin, which WILL cause scratching and can also burn the paint as they build up too much heat) | ||
+ | |||
+ | [http://www.autopia.com www.autopia.com] | ||
+ | |||
+ | the polishing kit with the pads and polisher you need are here: | ||
+ | |||
+ | http://www.autopia-carcare.com/son-daspol-kit.html | ||
+ | |||
+ | Cost £99 plus shipping (mine was $68 | ||
+ | |||
+ | Then, from Screwfix (UK only) you'll need the 110V power transformer and a 110V extension. The product codes are: | ||
+ | |||
+ | [http://www.screwfix.com www.screwfix.com] | ||
+ | |||
+ | 16691 - 14mtr 110V extension cable £9.95 | ||
+ | |||
+ | 16158 - 3KvA 110V transformer £53.42 | ||
+ | |||
+ | 19947 - 110V plug to attach to the polisher £1.20 | ||
+ | |||
+ | Total cost £ 64.57 (delivery free over £50!) | ||
+ | |||
+ | Total cost of the project is £ 200. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Meguiars now seem to have cottoned on that buying all the power transformer etc is a bit of a pain and so they now do their own UK version of the Porter Cable power polisher and it retails for about £150, the cost overall is therefore about the same but much less faffing about. | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | [http://www.meguiars.co.uk/cgi-bin/specwd.pl?pc=G220&tp=0 Meguiars DA Polishing Machine] | ||
+ | |||
+ | The results are very much worth it and saves so much time. | ||
==Finishing - Waxes, Sealants, QD etc== | ==Finishing - Waxes, Sealants, QD etc== | ||
+ | |||
+ | TBC | ||
==Interior== | ==Interior== | ||
+ | |||
+ | TBC | ||
==Wheels & Trim== | ==Wheels & Trim== | ||
+ | |||
+ | TBC | ||
==Recommended products / suppliers== | ==Recommended products / suppliers== | ||
+ | |||
+ | TBC |
Latest revision as of 17:56, 11 December 2010
Contents |
Detailing - Keeping your car looking amazing
Basics
Keeping your car looking amazing is fairly simple and doesn't take too much time but it's important to understand why paying the guys at the supermarket £5 to give it a quick wash with a dirty sponge once a month will ruin your paint
Key things to remember are:
It's a lot quicker to put scratches in your paintwork than it is to get them out
A bit of wax every now and then won't hide months of neglect
The steps are as follows:
- As often as possible
- Wash
- Every 3-12 months depending on season
- Clay - deep clean of the paint, leaving a spotless (but completely unprotected) finish
- Polish - remove light scratches and put the shine back into the paint
- Wax/Sealant - builds the shine and provides the paint with protection from the elements
- As necessary
- QD (Quick Detailng spray) - use it to remove bird droppings etc and give the car a quick polish
Washing
A really good write up of how to wash your car and a description of the 2-bucket method can be found here
The key to washing your car is to remove dirt, grime and salt without creating a lot of scratches in the paint. Done correctly this is the most important point to keeping your car looking good and the no. 1 rule is:
Do not use a sponge to wash your car
After driving around our car will have picked up lots of dirt and grit that's all sitting on top of the paint. If you use a sponge to clean it off, the dirt and grit will stick on the surface of the sponge and scratch your paintwork. Instead of a sponge you should use a lambswool wash mitt (easily picked up for less than a tenner). The deep pile on these absorbs the grit particles so that they're not scratching the paint.
The method I use is as follows (and it doesn't take as long as it looks).
- Pre-rinse with a pressure washer
- Snow foam
- Spray on wheel cleaner
- Have a cup of tea and let the foam do the work
- Brush the wheels
- Rinse with the pressure washer
- 2 bucket-method wash
- Rinse with the pressure washer
- Dry with a towel
There are photos, details of the products used and further details on this thread
Claying
Courtesy of RRUK - full thread here
The clay bar process involves 2 items, a soft putty like clay and a lubricating spray.
You spray a small part of the body panel with the lube spray and then glide the clay over the surface back and forth, then across back and forth. It's the easiest thing to do ever.
What happens is that your paintwork gets contaminants bonded in the paint surface that washing and polishing cannot remove, such as tree sap, insect residue, traffic film, tar etc. You can't generally see it, but trust me, its there. While the contaminants are there, your paint is never truly clean and your polishing and waxing is flawed. The clay picks it up off the surface.
When you look at the clay afterwards you can see it all. If you put a small sandwich bag on your finger and run it over the freshly washed paint you will feel tiny bumps, its these that the clay removes. You can also use it on glass and your alloys.
And after RRUK has pulled the invisible dirt out of his paint
Polishing
Polishing is the process used to physically remove light scratches and get the paint to a condition where it's ready for the last stage products i.e. waxes and sealants.
Polishing can be done by hand or by machine. Machine polishing gives better results and saves on elbow grease but requires more skill and there are risks if you get it wrong.
Hand
TBC
Machine
Courtesy of RRUK - full thread here
Equipment used for Polishing
Meguiars 3 stage paint system 3 bottles all for (£24)
Meguiars applicator pads (£3)
Cheap 100% Cotton towels (x3) (£10?)
Microfibre cloths (got a bulk pack in Costco for £14 for 36)
Porter Cable Random Orbital Polisher See below for prices (Shipped from USA)
Sonus pad kit for PC-ROP see below (Also from USA)
Using the Random Orbital Polisher I apply the Stage 1 Paint cleaner to get the dirt out of the paint.
Then I'll apply the Stage 2 Paint polish to bring out the colour depth.
Then I apply either the Stage 3 Carnauba Wax or the Gold class liquid wax.
At each stage I use the machine to apply the product then wipe/polish off with a clean cotton towel, then final buff using the microfibre cloth. (Without the machine you'd use the foam applicator pads but it takes longer)
If you wish to buy all the kit I bought then here's how:
Some Meguiars stuff can be bought from Halfords in the UK now, but its a limited range - use the Meguiars forum from the website to hear about the best ways to use products etc. I have heard the new product called NXT Tech Wax range is good too.
Porter Cable Random Orbital Polisher 7424 (The Random orbital Polisher is NOT the same as those cheap ones in B&Q -they are not random orbital, they simply spin, which WILL cause scratching and can also burn the paint as they build up too much heat)
the polishing kit with the pads and polisher you need are here:
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/son-daspol-kit.html
Cost £99 plus shipping (mine was $68
Then, from Screwfix (UK only) you'll need the 110V power transformer and a 110V extension. The product codes are:
16691 - 14mtr 110V extension cable £9.95
16158 - 3KvA 110V transformer £53.42
19947 - 110V plug to attach to the polisher £1.20
Total cost £ 64.57 (delivery free over £50!)
Total cost of the project is £ 200.
Meguiars now seem to have cottoned on that buying all the power transformer etc is a bit of a pain and so they now do their own UK version of the Porter Cable power polisher and it retails for about £150, the cost overall is therefore about the same but much less faffing about.
The results are very much worth it and saves so much time.
Finishing - Waxes, Sealants, QD etc
TBC
Interior
TBC
Wheels & Trim
TBC
Recommended products / suppliers
TBC