In an earlier post ("Help!!") I reported a host of warning lights (EAS/HDC/Low range/ABS etc and Transmission and engine failsafe modes coming on and off at will (car now drives fine BTW).

So finally, was very kindly allowed by a LR dealer to take my 04 4.4 V8 petrol in to have the fault codes read and cleared. (they somehow found the time to squeeze me in 5 days later!! - actually being a bit unfair to them )

LR dealer reports that the fault is corroded connectors in the ABS module which is affecting the CANBUS and tripping all the faults. This apparently is due to the Lucas design where the bottom half of the connectors are shaped like a cup and thus hold water in!! Great design.

THey reckon that the car or engine bay has been pressure washed at some stage thus putting water into the connectors. So the lesson is... DON'T DO IT!!

Anyhow, am now £57 lighter and no faults cleared (they wanted another £150 or so to try and clean it up with no promises of any cure!)..... oh and they quoted c. £860 for a new ABS module, and even more for a new CANBUS connector.

Anyone got any experience of this and a viable, non-expensive cure? Am going to have a go myself and see if I can clean it.

Tin of electrical contact cleaner, some cotton buds, some beer and a free hour or so, that should sort it. 2006 Mercedes CLS
1991 Retro-style Mini
But really finding it hard to fight the urge for a S/C...

so that's why we couldn't clear them faults james ..

i pressure washed my engine bay after the last salisbury plain trip but i must have been lucky and not sprayed that vital piece of equipment.. ... - .- -.




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Thanks guys. Have noticed there is also a space in the plastic housing under where the CANBUS cable goes into the unit! I would have thought a rubber grommet would have been more sensible for such an important piece of kit!

BTW, anyone know how to get the connector off in the front of the ABS module? I have tried and so has my mechanic mate but to no avail. Don\t want to crack any plastic clips adn ruin the thing.

Have you checked in RAVE how to do it?

On the pressure washing note, I've always been cautious of these on the paintwork, just because if you have a stone chip, a decent pressure washing can make it worse and lift off more paint.

I use mine purely for wheel arches and wheels when its REALLY bad only.

When I had my M5 the dealer has steam cleaned the engine bay and sprayed it with silicone, taht resulted in lots of sensors needing attention for a few months, I have never ever pressure washed an engine bay, just asking for trouble! Discovery 4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF
1982 Series 3 Hard Top

*Gone:L462 D5 HSE LUX, L663 Defender 110 HSE, Discovery 3 HSE, 2014MY Range Rover Sport 5.0 Supercharged AB Dynamic; L405 Exec Vogue SE 4.4, 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography, Defender TDCi XS CSW, Defender TD5 HT, Vogue SE TDV8, Vogue TD6, RRSport SC 4.2V8, Classic 3.9 Vogue Auto, Land Rover Series 3 SWB

Agree with above post. Some years ago I pressure washed the engine bay of my old Discovery. I thought what harm could it do to an old diesel engine? The result was a knackered alternator as water must have penetrated into the electrics. No longer FF owner but still interested. Present car Jaguar XE
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Previous car Td6 SE
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Previous LR- Disco 300TDi Auto

Thats interesting, I used to pressure wash the engine bay on my Discovery a couple of times a year and never had any bother, Not sure whether I would risk it on a RR, time will tell.

Yes - I know exactly the problem the OP has.

I blew a coolant hose, it threw coolant into the connector of the ABS. The heat in the engine bay made the pin corrode and snap. The pin is the canbus pin so the rest of the car thought there was a problem with the ABS. The ABS unit itself continued to work in its own right independent of being connected to the communications of the car.

I have since managed to dig around the base of the old pin, and solder a blob of solder onto it. I've then made a shaped piece of metal ( i think it was actually a cut down staple with a U bend at one end ) and shoved it into the female end of the loom plug. The metal then pushes down on the blob of solder and completes the circuit. It works and has been reliable for last number of months.

Dont ask to see pictures, cause I dont want to break a working connection!

The only long term solution is to replace the whole ABS module at great £££. Its a yet another crap design over sight. I think the connection plug itself is water tight between the module and plug .... its where the loom enters the plug that isn't and as a result water can get it. To me, thats an oversight on the designers part.

Quote:

BTW, anyone know how to get the connector off in the front of the ABS module? I have tried and so has my mechanic mate but to no avail. Don\t want to crack any plastic clips adn ruin the thing.

I set the pressure washer to 130'c and held it back a metre or two so it was a pure stream of steam and only after the engine had been running a while to make sure it was hot enough to boil it off while i washed the rest of the car.

I've always periodically sprayed all the electrical connectors I can find in the engine bay with WD40, definitely stops the corrosion in them.
I also do the same to all other electrical connectors on the car as I come across them.

Thanks Fisha, got the top off ok.

Not much corrosion inside. in fact it was as dry as a bone. But there was a small amount (pin head sized) of green crud on the bottom of a stalk. (Not sure the Dealer actually looked inside, cos if they did they would have seen how little corrosion there was and then removed it and fixed the problem!)

Anyhow, removed the battery, removed the green gunk from inside the connector, sprayed with Electrolux oil stuff and hey presto! all warning lights out except for DSC and Air Susp. Why the Dealer couldn't have done that in the first place and had a happy customer who from henceforth would gladly bring both his FFRRs to them for servicing etc I don't know!

When I arrived i asked to be present when the "technician" hooked the old girl up but was told.."sorry you are not insured due to 'elf & safety" Not sure I trust them now!! Any wonders!?? Probably 'cos they didn't want me to see them doing sweet FA.

Stan I may have to pop in on my next sortie past your gaff if that's ok?

Thanks for your help everyone.( tried to post pictures but can't get them off my Iphone onto my computer.)

did you do the steering wheels full lock left ,then full lock right after the battery re-fit james...


...and you're always welcome , you got my number..

When i cleaned my engine bay i sprayed the autoglym engine spray everywhere left it 30mins and then set the hose to a fine spray rinsed it off and it looked like new (touch wood no probs)

In Switzerland they want you to jet wash the engine before the MOT. I never have and have always passed. I think that's because in my Kanton they're not tw@'s. But it's a stupid thing to do unless you've had an oil leak.