Hi folks - this is my first post. I hope it's in the right place.

I've searched all the forums including this one for weeks and I still can't find the EAS ECU on my 2005 L322.

I've looked at the runner beside the passenger door, both back right compartments in the boot/trunk...

My issue is that I'm losing fillings with the way this thing drives. Over big bumps, and off road, it drives like a dream, but when I hit a hard, bumpy road surface, it's very rough. even hitting a cat's eye feels like running over a brick.

I checked a few things with a guy from the AA (on a friendly basis, so he took his time), who said the pump is fine and all the struts. Last night I checked the fuse for the air suspension and noticed a 20A fuse was in there when it's supposed to be 15. Would that 5A jump be enough to fry the ECU?

I even tried letting a bit of air out of the tire ( 33 front, 34 rear) to see if that helps, but not really noticeably.

All I want to do is buy a second-hand ECU and put it in to see if it changes anything before going to an LR specialist in a few weeks.

My LR is: Late 2005 Vogue, 4.4 petrol (Jaguar engine) I think it's a bit of weird model, but anyhow, does anyone happen to know where the EAS ECU might be located?

Thanks,

James

IIRC it's under the side panel in the passenger footwell...

Workshop manual is downloadable from the WIKI (link at top of page under fullfatrr.com)

It should show you....  Pete
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The suspension ecu is under the left end of the dash. However the suspension ecu only controls the vehicle height, it has nothing to do with ride quality. You need to look at shocks, bushes and if the tyres are very old and hard or are a light truck tyre.

The fuse exists to protect the wiring if a short circuit occurs between the fuse panel and the ecu but heavy enough to not blow with the normal current draw of the ecu. A higher rating fuse than is necessary only increases the risk of a fire if the wire shorts en-route to the ecu if the wiring is too light for the higher current, but a 20A fuse where normally a 15A will be safe enough.

Just because the shocks aren't leaking doesn't mean that they are in good condition. At what distance were they last changed? The first sign of a worn shock is its lack of damping on short movements such as occurs when driving over small bumps and ripples as the shock will move without much or any resistance yet does have resistance when moved further.

How are the bushes, front and rear? Sometimes it can be difficult to determine if a bush such as the ones in the rear lower arm is worn.

My guess is that all the shocks are worn to the extent that thay are no longer doing a decent job.

Thanks so much for the reply fellas, very much appreciated.

Haylands, I'll take another look and see if I can find it there.

Graeme, based on your advice I'm starting to think it's the struts, however the rear ones were replaced a year ago, have about 8,000 miles on them, and they seem to be the worst. But I'm not an expert on how vehicles roll and I'd assume there are a lot more nuanced reasons why it feels like I'm driving on the rims.

I did get the impression from other forums that the suspension ECu had some kind of thing where it 'learns' the road surface and corrects suspension accordingly.... That's why I was going to test the ECU.

I meant to say as well, when I disable DSC there is no difference at all in the way the vehicle drives.

I'm booked in to go to a pretty reputable LR specialist next week so just wanted to check everything in case I have missed something obvious.

Another explanation I've heard is to do with tires. I'm currently running Pirelli Scorpion Zeros (All Season) , size 255/55 R19

Your vehicle doesn't have computer-controlled shocks so cannot adjust the shock firmness. MY11-12 have CVDs, constantly variable dampers in LR terms.
Does a full tank of fuel make the rear better?