So over the last few weeks I've been having some rather weird electrical issues. I haven't really paid attention to them if I'm honest, yes silly I know. I've had the car just over 4 months and been running spot on until Friday when went to leave work, battery flat! Ok that's new, then all the weird things been happening became clear. But mine have been subtle and not corresponding with others that have had dodgy battery issues. So first off, when I'm sat in car waiting for missus to come out the shop, radio screen says low power and shuts down after only a few minutes, thought nothing of it. 2nd weird thing is, sometimes when I go to start it up, I push button and get just a click, try again, click's again, third time I push harder on the brake pedal and it starts. Airbag light keeps coming on and off, steering angle sensor out, handbrake faults. And now the most weird symptom I get is the suspension, it seems to change on every journey, from like being on a boat to being really hard or back to normal in which I get a very faint clicking sound from under the engine by drivers wheel. I've plugged the gap I'd tool in, alternator is working perfect according to the gap. The battery on there now is a yuasa 019 non AGM which I believe is about 4 years old. So I've just ordered an 019 yuasa AGM battery from tayna and being delivered tomorrow (Wednesday). I've read on here that's what supposed to be used on these cars so that is the way forward. Has anybody else had some strange gremlins due to a battery failing amongst normal symptoms of battery failure?
I will post back tomorrow evening when I fit it and code it to the car.

A bit of advice from another strange Gremlin

Not sure if it’s an issue in the L322, but what about corroded body earths?, I know it’s a thing on the L405’s, creating all sorts of spurious electrical er, gremlins……

Worth checking.  “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

Not actually thought of that gremlin, I did go through some river crossings in the Highlands the other week and on way back it was absolutely lashing it down most of the way. Are they easy to get to so I could do them myself? I have read they corrode on the L322 as well. We'll see how I get on tomorrow with new AGM battery.

Check the WM on the L322 up above^^^

On the L405 they are in the front of both wheelarches under the plastic liners, no idea on the L322. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

Thanks gremlin. Can't do any harm taking them off and giving them a good clean and brush up.

So this evening I fitted the new AGM battery, fired up like never before, coded it to the car and cleared all faults. Took it for a test drive and what a difference it's made. The suspension is loads better, a much comfier ride like it should be and actually I do believe it drives much better. Another thing that I noticed, I used to have what sounded like a very faint squak when I used to ease off the throttle and a very faint rattle, both have now disappeared. The side steps go in and out much quicker than they did before. Who knew a failing battery would cause all sorts of gremlins in these beasts. Something to remember in a few years time when it starts failing again.

So today before leaving work, I thought I would check the voltage through the gap tool and it shows 12.3v at tickover rising to 13.2 when revved. I had an hospital appointment so thought I would I check the voltage again while driving which is a 45 minute drive. The battery state of charge was fluctuating between 79% to 81% and voltage was showing anything 12.1v to 13.7 while driving along. Pouring with rain, headlights, wipers and heater on low battery charging status didn't drop below 79% although the voltage fluctuated getting higher to around 13.6v when accelerating and also on deceleration. Not once did it go over 14v.
After I fitted the battery yesterday, I went for a test drive, got back and voltage was showing 14.3, so what has gone wrong? I'm thinking alternator is on its way out. I checked alternator on gap tool on tickover with everything off got a reading of 17 amps for current and 23% alternator load. I did switch things on to see if there any changes, they rose up but then come back down again to minus then why back up. Can anyone tell me if a new alternator is needed with the attached pics? Thanks guys.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

I'm sure I've read that the system is only designed to charge the battery to 80% but I don't know why.

I read somewhere on here Kevin that's what it goes upto on the 2011 4.4 with the intelligent charger. That seems all ok according to the gap, it's just the voltage that's concerning me. Or am I worrying over nothing? But reading up on here on various posts the battery voltage should be over 14v.

@BarmyBrummie:

Relax, your car is fine.
You can’t hope to test the battery with the engine running!
Your voltages all seem completely within normal bounds to me, unless anyone else disagrees?
The alternator will push out 1-2V more than a healthy 12.6V expected from a resting battery, but don’t worry about it, the system will regulate the voltage to the various modules around the car.

Same applies with a charger such as the CTEK attached, you will often see up to 14V at the posts in the engine bay, it doesn’t mean you are frying your battery, or that anything is wrong.

Forget and enjoy!  “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

Thanks gremlin. I must be worrying too much after reading various posts on here about voltage and alternator problems. Sometimes a good read of technical issues can get the better of me lol. Much appreciated.