I’ve started a new thread for this as it seems like the hesitation was down to the broken air duct, and is now resolved.

Firstly, the car in question is a 07’ TDV8, 212km, blanked EGRs, otherwise unmodified.

The issue I’m having is this:
When I start the car cold, it drives beautifully. Instant throttle response, smooth power delivery and shifts, etc etc.
When it comes up to operating temperature, or is restarted warm, it takes longer to turn over (only slightly), has a delay between pressing the accelerator and boost kicking in, almost as if it’s still running of its cold start map.

I’ve got a GAP IID and have been monitoring it closely. No codes, no pending codes, all sensor values are spot on.

The only thing that looks amiss is this:
When I cold start, the EGRs are closed (5%), opening gradually as I drive and it warms up.
When it’s warm, however, they stay at 70%, even at idle, then randomly pitch to 5%, then all over the shop. I’ve been logging trips and it consistently seems to be the only thing looking weird.

Two screenshots showing the different behaviours:

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

The symptoms would be a leaky egr valve and as you have observed the valves are closed until the car warms up so I'd check the blanking plates again for any leaks. As you have a GAP IID tool you can buy the EGR delete software delete for not much money so you can rule this out. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Thanks for the quick response, Jay.

Sorry, to clarify - 5% closed at cold start, but straight to 70 when I drive away. However, it’s driving beautifully at this stage, so not sure if that’s a problem or not

It’s when it’s at operating temperature that it’s getting weird, stuck open even at idle, etc.

I’ve rechecked all plates and there weren’t any leaks, but could it be that the egrs were already, then I blanked them, but the sensor(s) are still sending faulty data?

Sorry, I’m only new to this level of diagnostics coming from a 3.5L classic. Bear with me 😂

The EGR system on the 3.6 is pretty basic hence why people can physicaly blank them and the drive perfectly well without the ECU throwing a wobbly. I'd get them mapped out via your GAP tool anyway as you realy need to stop them operating to lower the risk of them breaking as was mentioned in the other thread. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Ok, will do that as first point of call.

Is it something that could be causing said issue as a hypothetical?

Many possible cause but all speculation until you have ruled out the EGR system. Others more knowlegable about the 3.6 engine will be able to offer better help from then on. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Copied from my other thread:

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Hi All,

Just wanted to update and say this problem has been solved.

As per the previous post, the initial hesitation was from the split lower air duct to driver's side turbo. I removed it and had it plastic welded, and now runs beautifully.

With the improved performance, I then noticed a distinct difference between cold/warm running - much better at cold. This has also been solved - turns out that even though my car is an 07 model and didn't throw a engine light / code when I blanked the EGRs, it was still looking for input from those sensors when the car warmed up and throwing the air/fuel ratio way out, hence the poor running when warm.

I bought the EGR patch from BAS and uploaded it via my GAP IID, and what a difference! Instant throttle, pulls like a steam train, and no hesitations. I'm very happy.

So, for anyone blanking early cars, if you notice even slight difference in your performance when the car's cold vs hot -- you might need to tune out the EGRs too, even without the engine light/ codes.

Thanks again for everyone's help.

Cheers