Just got back from a 300 mile trip. All fine, except the vehicle died an electronic death when I switched it off. Luckily had just got home so glad it happened then. In the journey the wife opened and then closed the lower glove box. As she closed it the message "Parking aid unavailable" popped up, and then went away. On switching off the car an hour later, "select neutral before starting" and then it shut down. Ignition won't switch on now, it just asks for smart key to be placed near. Tried another key, also wont work. Boot wont open, doors only opened from inside.
I put a multimeter on the battery and it reads 12.48, the softclose and sidesteps work, so there is power toi those. I am wondering if an earth point came loose/failed somewhere - either passenger footwell?? Or wheel arch?? Or if the battery is maybe fubar? Any ideas welcome or any threads to point me to, thank you. L405 '14 ATB 4.4 sdv8 65k miles (I have full extended warranty, but - if its an easy fix then I'd rather just do it and save hassle.)

Search under "wheel arch earth" there is a thread 'ABS module' which has useful pictures and commentary. Also try charging the battery and see if that helps and check if it will hold charge. Only Range Rovers since 1988

Thank you for this I’ll get it on charge and see what happens

Checked earthing points under drivers wheel arch all good, cleaned and sanded etc.
Plugged in bmw on jump leads, 14.8volts - no change, can't open boot.
Got to aux battery in boot at side, multimeter on that says 13.09 - however it was still wired to car.
Dash just says "put key near the thingy" and nothing else.
Infotainment/nav all works. sidesteps work. softclose works. interior lights work.
So no power, or maybe not enough power to main electric systems and seemingly to starter motor. Even when bmw giving it 14.8v.
When the key message goes on the dash, it sometimes cycles the landrover logo with mileage underneath, so this comes off on every few seconds.

I suspect the main battery hasnt got enough juice to give enough boost to the underpin the whole system. I'll try leaving it on charge all night again and see if it picks up any more charge.

The main problem now is not being able to open the boot without any power. I got the rear panel off the upper boot lid but still cant open the boot by moving the lever that the actuator pulls with the cable. Think the actual boot open mech needs to have power?

Have you tried this

https://topix.landrover.jlrext.com/topix/s...rgency.pdf

there is a small panel you pop off on inside rear boot.

Thank you for suggestion. I believe this doc is for the L322 not the L405. There is no tab like that in the L405. Sadly, as it would be a great thing to have!

The L405 is meant to be able to be jumpstarted from the poles under the bonnet. I read one place that said you can do this even without a battery installed. And so by doing this you should be able to get power back to open the boot normally.

However I’ve tried this (jump starting from bmw) and there is no change to condition of my car so no power to auxiliaries or starter etc etc.

Either there might be a problem on the can bus (bad module, bad earth) or something to do with main battery dragging current somehow.

I’ve got it on charge tonight and will try jumpstart tmrw again. After that I’ll need some diagnotics so need to get it towed/flatbed. Really really don’t want to have to go to main dealer even tho I have full warranty.

I think that is for the L322 not the L405... Maybe it has something similar... Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Sadly the L405 boot can only be opened with power available. Unless someone knows another way but I can’t find any info - it all says connect battery or another car to poles under bonnet

Sorry my error, try this.

thank you again - however I have no power at all to the tailgate. So there is no stuck actuator or stretched cable etc! And no actuator noise in the catch (like in the video). There's nothing, along with no ability for the dash to initialise - it tries to initialise - the LR logo comes up, goes away, comes up, goes away - like something's stopping it from firing up.

I have popped the back panel off and can get to the actuator and cable, but it still wont open, it must have power so it seems.

My conclusion in all this is that there is a bad module somewhere, or a very bad earth somewhere. (its not the wheel arch earth, I've checked it, good as new, but cleaned sanded and sprayed it anyway)

So annoyingly I think this is back to main dealer warranty to plug into can bus and start the search for a fault. I'm not holding my breath and dont expect this to be fixed any time soon - my faith in any and all main dealers runs at about 0.1% but maybe I'll be pleasantly surprised!!

I'd be keen to pay for this to be diagnosed at a specialist first before sending to warranty to be fixed - if anyone knows of a proper diagnostic specialist in east anglia please let me know....

Hi, It's kind of off the wall but would applying 12v directly to the output of the fuse (fuse removed) for the central locking give you enough to get it open.

I have a 12v probe that allows me to inject power in the circuit.

I've heard of people using drill batteries to do that as they are pretty versatile, it's low enough that if it doesn't work it's not going to fry anything as oposed to hooking up a car battery that way and powerfull enough to wind window motors etc. Fuji White 2012 4.4 TDV8 Westmiinster

thanks yes, interesting thought! I have no idea if that would work but it might. Interestingly, the unlock button on the door panel clicks all the doors - but it seems theres no power to the actuator - so I'd look for the fuse for the rear tailgate and try 12v on that maybe - but to be honest its going past my skill level a bit!

The other thing is that if this actuator is on the can bus, and somethings fried on the can bus, is it a circuit that therefore affects everything on the can bus, or is each module separate in a star network so to speak.

Hi, yes, if the bus is being dragged down by something it'll stop the unlock signal reaching the tailgate. Pretty much how a Ghost imobiliser works but on the starter circuit.

There is a freeware tool call "Savvycan", that may help, here's a short video related to the Defender, it may be of some use in understanding the principles, but what the codes might be for L405 tailgate opening is the challenge there, downside is you need the system powered for it to work.



Shows how easy it really is to hack into a car's systems and make it do weird stuff.

Andy Fuji White 2012 4.4 TDV8 Westmiinster

Thank you I’ll have a look. It seems to be quite complicated but I’ll have a poke around.

I’ve found a specialist who can take on this project under warranty so I’ll go that route rather than main dealer.

Yes cars are inherently insecure due to lack of encrypted and/or proprietary traffic on these buses.

To be honest I wouldn't have gone as far as you have with Extended warranty in your back pocket.
Better to call them out, ask for a JLR engineer to call not a AA man , I have found them (JLR mobile techs) very knowledgeable. If he cannot fix it he will arrange with warranty people and order you a hire car there and then. You just need to take your car to nearest main dealer and a hire car will be delivered to you there.
I believe, Warranty pay for first 3 days hire then Main Dealer picks up the tab so it forces the punctuality of the repair.

If you still want to go with your specialist, Have you checked with extended warranty people that they approve your specialist? You do know you have to check with them first? You cant get the job done then try and back charge EW people. 2018 SE SDV8 4.4 Byron Blue