L322 2010 TDV8.

Weird battery issues. If left for a week, then the battery is draining 12v’s on the Gap Tool, but when push to start voltage disappears to 11v’s, and the click, hard break pedal, won’t start.

Battery is a year old, AGM, should be fine, starter and alternator, both less than a year old.

Last week jumped it same issue, even though the battery was on trickle charge all week, it fired up, no issues, took it for a 45 minute drive, day later, fired up on -6c, on the button, no issues.

Left for a week, tried to start, click.

I have a brand new fully charged spare AGM, this morning, tried top jump start it from that brand new battery, won’t start, click.

Anyone with any thoughts, there clearly is a drain going on somewhere, but thoughts on why a fully charged battery, 12.4V won’t start it.

Strange. Check out my YouTube channel

https://youtu.be/UHBbLWZXw4A

Sounds more like a starter motor or starter motor wiring issue of which there have been numerous threads and likley a wiki how-to. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

I’m thinking it’s a starter motor relay issue, as 12.4V’s should be enough to fire it up, on a spare fully charged battery. Check out my YouTube channel

https://youtu.be/UHBbLWZXw4A

322s are known to have problems with starter motors wearing out, the symptom being that with a sound battery pressing the starter button produces a click, it can then often start after another, or several more attempts, when the starter cranks strongly as normal. My 2012 WM did that and replacement of the starter motor cured it.

They can also suffer from defective starter buttons, it can then help to push round the outside of the button rather than in the middle, but the real cure is a new button, but if you are getting a click then it's likely the starter motor, defective button reaction is silence. Only Range Rovers since 1988

So, it started, the hard brake pedal, I pushed it down even harder than I normally do, and boom, started, as if nothing was wrong. I’ve got a replacement start button, as you mention, that is sometimes an issue, replaced that, easy pry out job, 5 mins.

Warmed it up, quick spin around the block, have to avoid the ULEZ cameras, of get charged for a warm up then, turned it off, waited for a minute, started on the button.

It needs an oil / filter change anyway so off to Glenrands to get them to check the starter motor and rely, the starter is less than a year old, so I don’t think it’s that, relay, who knows.

Will try it again tomorrow and see if it starts up.

Gotta love our L322’s  Check out my YouTube channel

https://youtu.be/UHBbLWZXw4A

After trying to get the L322 started last week, I replaced the start / stop button, quick change over.

Took it for a spin around the block, got it up to temp, and let it idle for 20 mins, up yours Khan!

Battery state of charge was 12.4 and the alternator is fine, pumping out 14.7, so that all works.

Reset codes with the GAP and left it for a week.

I bought a new brake light switch, which is part of the start process, as I think this is the cause of my problems and hard brake pedal when starting.

Fast forward to today. Been left for a week. Tried to fire it up this am, pushed the start button, everything lit up, pressed the brake pedal, hit the start button and died. I had the gap tool in and voltage dropped down to 11.4 when I pressed the brake pedal /start button combo

Tried again, this time really leant on the brake pedal and boom, fired up. Voltage drop went to 12V, counted two turns of the starter and fired into life.

I think the issue is the brake light switch throwing intermittent faults with the starting procedure

I let it warm up, up yours Khan! Quick spin, avoiding the ULEZ cameras and parked it up, quickly replaced the brake light switch, 5 min job.

Fired up, all good, but the car has the charge back into the battery, so can’t tell on this test.

As a side note, when in Spain and Portugal last summer, I had similar issues, 2 actually, when you hit the start button and the dash would die, but it would fire up after another hard press of the brake pedal. This is making me think that the brake switch issue is the cause of this starting issue, after all, it’s 14 years old.

There are four contacts on the brake switch, clearly a signal is going to the brake lights, but there are signals going elsewhere in the car too, maybe the switch / plunger is failing, which is why it takes more effort to press the pedal to get the switch to engage when starting, just guessing here.

I’ll leave it for a week and see if this solves the issue, but I think I’m closer to solving the issue.

It’s also good to know that I don’t have a battery drain issue. Check out my YouTube channel

https://youtu.be/UHBbLWZXw4A

The brake pedal has to go down quite a bit to enable a start. Mine has a leak on the servo system so the brake pedal always needs a hard push when left overnight. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

I had same issue Mark. and many others a similar one. many people change the starter motor, but it sort of gives the wiring issue a better chance, but the issue comes back. the issue is common to the 4.4... there is a high resistance in the starter trigger wire, between the fuse box under the bonnet, and the SM itself. a joint that goes HR. and, no one has found its actual whereabouts. but it can be parallel wired, and it removes the liability. sounds very technical, but very easy to do. and restores reliability. basically have a look through this thread, and on page 6 you will see where to interrupt the trigger wire, and run a parallel wire, down to the small screw type trigger wire connection terminal on the SM, and you solder that new wire in, leaving all the existing wiring intact. you should not have the issue again. just tidy the path and maybe feed it in through a little tubing trunking where is might chaff. takes 20 mins, and roll of Halfords wire. best done with soldering iron.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic31909-75.html

Thanks John, I had a new starter put in less than a year ago, so it’s not that, least I’m sure it’s not that.

So far, I think I’m OK, but if this comes back, then that seems to be the last thing to try.

I have noticed that the brake pedal on start is just a light touch now, before had to really give it some, so maybe the plunger on the brake switch was the problem. Time will tell  Check out my YouTube channel

https://youtu.be/UHBbLWZXw4A

JayGee wrote:

The brake pedal has to go down quite a bit to enable a start. Mine has a leak on the servo system so the brake pedal always needs a hard push when left overnight.

I fired it back up and the brake pedal didn’t seem to need to be pressed harder, if that makes sense.

Will monitor and see if this has solved the issue  Check out my YouTube channel

https://youtu.be/UHBbLWZXw4A

2010BlackL322 wrote:

Thanks John, I had a new starter put in less than a year ago, so it’s not that, least I’m sure it’s not that.

So far, I think I’m OK, but if this comes back, then that seems to be the last thing to try.

I have noticed that the brake pedal on start is just a light touch now, before had to really give it some, so maybe the plunger on the brake switch was the problem. Time will tell

Mine just goes to the cloud screen when this happens, never lost the screen, and the radio on button flashes.

My normal start procedure is, press start once, fires everything up, I wait for a rely, somewhere, to tick, tick, tick. 15 seconds, then fire it up, start button, brake press etc.

Sometimes the Range Rover splash screen is present on the radio at start, sometimes it shows up after the engine has fired, can’t say it’s consistent.

I think most of us know the noises and functions of ours cars and when something seems odd, we know we have a problem.

I generally knew the hard brake pedal was going to cause start issues, every time.

Got love ‘em  Check out my YouTube channel

https://youtu.be/UHBbLWZXw4A

2010BlackL322 wrote:

JayGee wrote:

The brake pedal has to go down quite a bit to enable a start. Mine has a leak on the servo system so the brake pedal always needs a hard push when left overnight.

I fired it back up and the brake pedal didn’t seem to need to be pressed harder, if that makes sense.

Will monitor and see if this has solved the issue

2010BlackL322 wrote:

Mine just goes to the cloud screen when this happens, never lost the screen, and the radio on button flashes.

My normal start procedure is, press start once, fires everything up, I wait for a rely, somewhere, to tick, tick, tick. 15 seconds, then fire it up, start button, brake press etc.

Sometimes the Range Rover splash screen is present on the radio at start, sometimes it shows up after the engine has fired, can’t say it’s consistent.

I think most of us know the noises and functions of ours cars and when something seems odd, we know we have a problem.

I generally knew the hard brake pedal was going to cause start issues, every time.

Got love ‘em