Hi All,

2011 4.4 TDV8 with 135k miles.

Adaptive Dynamics Fault appears on the dash immediately on start up but the height control still works on all settings. No loss of height overnight and drives just fine.

I have repaired wires on top of struts on both sides in the past and all airbags and struts have been replaced this year.

Any ideas what could cause the warning light to come on

Thanks in advance

Kenny T

Adaptive Dynamics is separate to the air bags and suspension height stuff.

I’d say the strut wires, but if you’ve done them recently prob not the issue. Have read some have issues with the wires to the rear shocks, but not that many.

Are the shockers ok? No massive leaks. One of my originals split, but don’t think it threw an error.

Has your suspension gone rock hard now? Could try pulling all 4 wire connectors off the strut and putting back on?

Might need codes read unless more knowledgeable folk have some ideas….

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

Mine did this yesterday when I started it, and suspension was very stiff for first few miles. Stopped and restarted and been fine since. I put it down to the very high ambient temps.

Same as OP - strut top wires replaced too

As said recheck the wiring but a scan with a GAP IID tool will likley be the best way of identifying the exact location of the problem. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Rechecked and stripped previous repair and found the cracked wire. Have now replaced a section with new wire, soldered and protected with heat shrink so probably good for a while .
Thanks for all the fast replies 👍. Love this website

What you have to bare in mind is that the top of the strut that the wire comes out from rotates when you steer. To do a successful repair you have to use very flexible wire and heat shrink and keep the heat shrink to a minimum... also don't secure the wire to tight, you have to allow it to rotate....

Start the engine with the bonnet up and get someone to do a lock to lock and you will see what I mean...  Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Thanks Pete. Makes sense 😉

I removed the cable retaining fitting from its hole to allow the cable more freedom to move.

Is that the rubber like grommet?

Soldering isn't going to be a long-term repair on a moving electrical harness, it will create a non-flexing section which will in turn mean that the wire strands either side have to move more and will therefore fracture sooner.
Better to de-pin the connector housings, replace a significant length (200mm or so) of Hi-Flex or similar, right from the connector pins to some point where the harness is fixed to the body using heatshrink covered crimp terminals, then protect with some flexible conduit which will control the flex and spread it out along a greater section, increasing the longevity.

Almost all automotive electrical connections are crimped, not soldered (soldered connections tend to be crimped and soldered) for very good electrical & mechanical reasons - and have been for some time.

KennyT wrote:

Is that the rubber like grommet?