Hi all.
Just joined the forum after buying a 2017 ATB SDV8.

I took it to JLR for a pre-warranty inspection today and they picked up on a few things before I can proceed.
Oil cooler leaking, rear brake pads, steering column UJ gator split and ACE front bushes worn.
How big a job is the cooler and steering gator?
Any suggestions of independent garages around north east Hampshire?

Also can I do a bi-yearly oil change using a vacuum pump? No dip stick so where does it go?
How easy are rear pads to change and what makes are best?

Cheers

Oil cooler cost me £600 last year fitted by Indy, don't know about your other bits.
2011 4.4 Vogue RR owner

Take it here www.glenrands.co.uk and tell Ross /Mike I sent you. Avoid main dealers at all costs!
Ross will give you the option of using OEM parts from Advanced Factors or Genuine. Latter is same but in a Land Rover box and will be double the price of an OEM. I have an oil cooler fitted from Advanced.
The team there will look after you
Loan cars, home collection or local station drop off  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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Lower gaiter quote @ £345 main dealer

&t=272s

&t=1s

I bought my rear pads from the main dealer £125 + vat. overfinch modified

My oil cooler cost £1.2k at an Indy. Apparently things took a lot longer to remove than they anticipated, I was quoted £600 - £800 which they regarded as an estimate rather than a quote.

Pads are an easy change, I just fitted Brembo front and rear pads and discs. On the rears you do need to set the parking brake into service mode and there are threads and tube videos available on how to do that.

I do annual changes on the engine oil even though I only do £2k. Its a good way to keep the turbo's working to do regular and low miles oil changes. I use a sucker on the oil changes and the important thing is measure the oil out and add back the same amount as the oil indicator on the dash might not cooperate with a fresh reading until the car has been run a while. Then when its run you need to wait half an hour before you can access the oil level reading. No dip stick can be a real ball ache.

Cheers all.

 Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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DrRob wrote:

Take it here www.glenrands.co.uk and tell Ross /Mike I sent you. Avoid main dealers at all costs!
Ross will give you the option of using OEM parts from Advanced Factors or Genuine. Latter is same but in a Land Rover box and will be double the price of an OEM. I have an oil cooler fitted from Advanced.
The team there will look after you
Loan cars, home collection or local station drop off