PS - As for an impact wrench, the one I used goes up to 950 newton metre so it will tackle most seized bolts, and the only other pointers are .....use good quality axle stands with the correct weight rating and ONLY use impact sockets NOT standard sockets with the impact wrench. With tools like impact wrenches etc, it's always wise to think about eye protection

Apologies if I am preaching to the converted.

Little update. The reluctor ring was loose in the knuckle.

For reference this is 66,000 mile 2012 car!

I think I’m into new shafts, both sides and probably the front too before too long.

On mine the ( front drivers side ) reluctor ring was rusted into the knuckle, hence my fitting a new drive shaft and knuckle etc, yet the nearside was in quite good condition.

At least you got the bits off the car, as there was a recent thread about hydraulic tools to split the drive shaft spline from the hub / knuckle so you escaped that problem then.

Hello Merchy,

I think the post you are referring to was also from me. I couldn’t get the shaft out of the knuckle, fortunately my local mechanic could - relief.

However the handbrake cables are corroded into the knuckle so the job has now got so much bigger.

I am looking at a full rear subframe overhaul. Kevin
2012 L322 Westminster 4.4 TDV8
1999 P38A 4.0 SE - Sold