Sorry all, I know I am completely off topic here, just nipped out in my wifes Discovery 4 and front drivers side wheel is red Hot to touch and smells like its on fire (its not!! I checked!!)

I assume its a brake pad binding maybe, any ideas or help anyone please? Any quick fixes other than don't use it??

DrF

Highly likely to be a seized calliper or pins, strip down and lube or replacement time and yes, dont use it like this. BMW i3 Electric Car
2012 Full Fat RR 4.4 TDV8 (now gone)
2006 VW Touareg 3.0 TDi V6

Great, thanks for the swift response, I will get booked into garage immediately thanks AJGalaxay2012

When I used it the other day sounded like it had a stone in brakes, as when brakes used noise went away.

That certainly sounds like brake caliper pistons not retracting as they should and holding the brake on for an extended period. The car has so much torque that it can drive regardless, sometimes with a shuddering through the steering, but the friction generates huge heat. I had exactly this on my 2004 322.

The answer is to wait for it to cool down and then if possible free off the pistons. If it has got really hot there might be a case for checking the disc has not warped or the like, in extreme cases it can affect wheel bearings. More experienced forum members can perhaps say more on that. On the 322 there was the additional problem that in the course of fitting new pads the rubber dust seal had become torn and was contributing to the seizure. If the pistons/caliper are badly corroded then one may need to replace the caliper, but otherwise it would be a case of removing the pads and then working the piston out by standing on the brake pedal (with something in the way to stop the piston coming right out) and then cleaning off the corrosion with something like a toothbrush with brake cleaner (some people use brake fluid) and working the piston in and out (a G clamp may be needed if it won't retract) and repeating the cleaning and movement until all the pistons move freely. Sometimes wire wool or the like is needed to get the corrosion off. If it's badly pitted then replacement would be needed.

In my case the problem occurred while travelling, I got a local recovery service to free the caliper in the car park where I had managed to stop and then proceeded to the dealer where I think it needed a new caliper (car about 9yo at the time). Only Range Rovers since 1988

Thanks CS, I wonder if I should call recovery out and get them to free it so it can be driven to garage safely?

That's what I would do. I'm happy to free motorcycle brakes, but am not confident about jacking the RR and working on the brakes without proper axle stands etc. Only Range Rovers since 1988

I agree, way out of my comfort zone. Thankyou CS

Had this a few times on my old 322.

The AA man stripped a brake calliper down once on a caravan site to free it off as it was smoking hot! Don’t drive it if you have breakdown cover, though it depends somewhat if the chap in the van can use spanner’s or not.

Either way it will need a replacement calliper and if they are knackered a new set of pads and maybe discs if it’s damaged them at all. Nothing wrong with a remaunfactured caliper from a motor factor, cheapest way to fix. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

DrF

Get it recovered sir... Much cheaper than having to replace more components as you've driven it locked on... Even had to replace wheel bearings some times when overheated...

Change both sides is the best practice sir