I shelled out $240 for RSW All Comms III. Plugget it in and got following codes that are shown below as screenshots.

Question I have - where can I get description of RR error codes, as well as what causes them?

Here is the list

1. BCU (Body Contol Unit) - the computer that is under passenger seat:



Now, I am going to remove the BCU and send it for repair. This repair supposed to fix all these codes that also cause other problemes, like unable to unlock rear doors and/or tailgate, stiff steering, etc.

2. Engine Control Module:


I was told that these error are caused by failed mass air flow sensor - engine is getting more fuel that it is needed and the result is also poor fuel economy. In addition to mass air flow senser I am also planning to replace power steeing and all fuids - trasfer case, transmission, front and read diff, coolant, engine oil, break fluid.


3. Instrument pack


I know nothing about these errors. What causes these?


5. Steering Interlock Module. Again, I don't know what these errors are about and what are fixes:



6. Transfer Box Module - same, looking for info about these codes



7. Parking Assist Module, not important



Thanks.

Lists of codes can be found in the workshop manual (download from wiki in red at the top of this page) .

Have you tried clearing the faults to see if they return? They may be faults stored in memory and not cleared John
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Have you tried clearing the faults to see if they return? They may be faults stored in memory and not cleared

Can you verify which codes are actually true? For example, it's quite easy to test the car will superlock.

Your diagnostic scanner also doesn't appear to tell you if the codes are present and active or stored.

The earlier L322s are notorious for phantom codes, so I wouldn't believe what it says unless you're experiencing a problem. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

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Can you verify which codes are actually true? For example, it's quite easy to test the car will superlock.

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Your diagnostic scanner also doesn't appear to tell you if the codes are present and active or stored.

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The earlier L322s are notorious for phantom codes, so I wouldn't believe what it says unless you're experiencing a problem.

OP, I'll tell you about those codes I have an answer for:


Misfire detected cylinder 8.
Misfire detected cylinder 6.
Multiple misfire fault.

Remove plastic head covers and:

Check for oil leaks, pooled oil inside the spark plug wells.

Check spark plugs and coils. Any difference in spark plugs colour would be suspect.

Try moving suspect plug / coil to another cylinder and see if the problem moves with them.

Do you have any coolant loss or high pressure in the cooling system? Then a HG failure needs to be ruled out. Hope it's just old or oily plugs and coils



CAN bus missing node - Instrument Pack.


This is normal; will always be there.


Right Headlight Module Communications. Note: worked only on 3rd-4th try to open:
Retrieving ECU ID Information.
Returned ECU ID : 98 : 10 : A0 : 88 : 38 : 14 : 63 : 40 : 0 : 1 : 10 : 43 : 15 : 8 : 11 : F1 :
Ignition voltage < 7.5 volts.
D2S/R-Light is off.

Voltage warning is normal; Check and confirm side markers work.

Hey, thank you for reply and useful info.

Question - what 'HG failure' refers to? Do I need to disconnect battery before checking spark plugs?
'side markers' - do you refer blinkers? BTW, after clearing this message, it did not come back. How long do I need to wait to check if faults coming back?

Also, what about all other units below that are giving ERROR Comms Offline message?

Digital Signal Processor Communications.
Headlight Leveling Module Communications.
Left Headlight Module Communications.
Lighting Control Module Communications.
Satellite Navigation Module Communications.
Rain Sensor Module Communications.
Tire Pressure Module Communications.

A HG (Head Gasket) failure. I really hope this is not the case.
You do not need to disconnect the battery to work with the spark plugs or the ignition coils. But it goes without saying that the engine should be switched off while you're at it

By side markers I'm referring to the orange / red (front / rear) side lighted, reflective vertical strip. Being a US market model, I assume it's fitted with those. The 7,5V message may come back once you've switched on the lights. It doesn't seem to affect anything, as I do also get it since I retrofitted US spec sidelight clusters and wired the orange marker bulbs

Click image to enlarge

Thank you. Head gaskets were replaced/fixed with other engine job costing $5900 1.5 years ago so I do not think it should be the case.

Will move the plugs to see if it is the problem.

Then spark plugs should be your first port of call. I would consider replacing them all, as they may not have been replaced when the HG was done or cheap ones were fitted. I use Laser Platinum NGK BKR6EQUP.
Had my own HG replaced, top end reconditioned and timing chains replaced 26 months ago for about the same amount in €.
Have done 57K Km since and had to change the Denso spark plugs the garage fitted me at around 30K Km.

vs322 wrote:

A HG (Head Gasket)
By side markers I'm referring to the orange / red (front / rear) side lighted, reflective vertical strip. Being a US market model, I assume it's fitted with those. The 7,5V message may come back once you've switched on the lights. It doesn't seem to affect anything, as I do also get it since I retrofitted US spec sidelight clusters and wired the orange marker bulbs

Click image to enlarge

The side light cluster has to come off. It is held in place by a large plastic, oblong retaining nut with fins. Then on the top and bottom of the cluster there are tabs that wedge into the main light chassis.
The most difficult part is undoing and refitting the plastic retaining nut as it is obstructed by the air filter box and doesn't give you enough purchase to handle. The smaller your hands the better. It takes several rounds to unscrew and is easy to slip through your fingers and fall into the undertray; not the end of the world but a nuisance nonetheless. I suggest you find and rehearse a workable grip while undoing, may be quite awkward, but I found that index and middle finger work best although the grip isn't really secure but just enough to pick up and to reposition.