Are there any Alignment Gurus out there who are able to answer questions relating to a change in ET or track width on the scrub radius, and how one might correct that, possibly through a small camber adjustment?

In principle, if one were to increase the track width of a L322/L405 by using wheels with a greater offset or spacers, this would also affect the scrub radius. It would either have the potential to turn a negative scrub radius to a zero or positive one, or to increase a positive scrub radius even further. Do we know what the scrub radius for an L322/L405 is? I assume negative as that’s what I understand most cars to be as standard. I also understand that for road cars, negative scrub radius is a good thing and zero scrub radius is a bad thing. Positive scrub radius is not as bad as zero, but more for niche applications.

In addition, in order to counter the increased offset and thus change in scrub radius, can this be tweaked back towards ‘standard’ by a camber-only adjustment. Obviously I’m not talking extremes, but even a small camber tweak might bring the scrub radius back to where it was?

In the case of increased offset, yes I understand the implications for wear and tear on suspension and bearings etc etc so please don’t make this thread about that; there’s other threads on here to talk about that. I’m trying to tease out the implications for geometry and how changes can affect handling, both positively and negatively.

TYIA! Andy

2010 4.4TDV8 Vogue SE in Santorini Black with Ivory interior
2017 Audi SQ5 3.0 V6T Quattro in Volcano Red
2001 Audi Allroad 2.5 TDI manual with low-range in Highland Green. Currently SORN whilst undergoing some serious restoration!

I am new to the Range Rover scene but have run spacers or non factory wheels on several vehicles and usually on Grand Cherokees running spacers up to 1.5 inches 38mm is not ideal but not too bad. To a purist its no go.
If the tire height is also increased it reduces the extra scrub so that with tall enough tires it theoretically could be put back to spec. (not that I am suggesting that). I can't see how camber would fix it, but I am no expert.
Usually the negative is larger turn radius, and that when one wheel hits resistance from snow or gravel or whatever it puts a lot more pressure due to leverage on that wheel causing it to swing back on any slack in the bushing and perhaps wrestle the steering a bit.
You might be able to counter it with a bit of toe but not sure.