It depends how many times you need to adjust the seat, you could leave it in one position and not connect it up. 2017 SDV8 4.4 silicon silver AB
2012 TDV8 4.4 Stornaway Grey AB
2011 TDV8 4.4 Buckingham Blue
2012 VW V6 3.0 Tougreg

Further update, it's fixed!

I took the drivers seat switch pack out (that wasn't fun) and did some disassembly. Memory position button number 3 was stiff, and it looked like it wasn’t sat quite flush with the others. I freed it up with contact cleaner and actioned it a few times and put it back in the car. That did it. Current draw when locked (after 30 mins or so to enter full sleep mode) is 0.01 amps, aka 10 milliamps. Fantastic.

So to sum up for anyone else reading this thread in the future, if you have a parasitic current draw that is flattening your battery, (my draw was between 2 and 3 amps) and your hazard warning light button AND your lcd instrument panel remain lit (no image, just the back light) even after the car should have gone to sleep, then check your seat switch packs. Chances are one of the buttons its stuck, or your memory control module under the seat is faulty. For me it was the switch.

Cost to fix…. Zero. (Well, a new battery, a code reader, a ctek charger and a low amp clamp meter, but none of those are car parts so lets not count them ).

That's good news, well done with your persistence.
Has the high-level brake light also gone off?
10mA is quite low, generally your MY would be in the 20-30mA range, there may be a bit of variance in your meter but clearly it's in the 'low milli-Amp range so all good.

The single led in the brake light is still there, but its super super dim. Can't even see it in day light. I think there must be a ground issue the high level LED light unit itself. It's so low that my meter can't resolve it, I tried it on the light fitting contacts and it's telling me its off. I am going to order a replacement as its a cheap part, but I think its unrelated to my recent problem.

I also though 10 ma was low, but I have a cheap meter so I figure its just the tolerence. Another thing noticed with all this, is that my alternator is outputting 14.75 volts. That seemed kinda high to me. Not sure. I guess I'll ask my garage to check it when its in for its next service.

The alternator output voltage is fine, a combination of low temperature and partially discharged battery will be responsible. It's a managed charge system so the system voltage can range from 12.6 to (battery type coding dependent) around 15VDC. There's lots of information in the relevant 'description & operation' section of the workshop manual along with a graph of the charge voltage range vs. alternator duty cycle in the test & diagnosis section.

I think the high-level brake light is more to do with the 'cold test' function of the lighting control module, I don't think it's a problem as such, just 'how it is'.

Excellent, thanks for you help with my issue too, helped me stay focused and keep on trying to track it down rather than just give up (which at times I felt like doing).