Afternoon folks,

My new oil cooler has finally arrived from the UK and I'll be getting it swapped as soon as the weather here dries up (FF doesn't fit in the garage with the bonnet in service position!

What would you suggest I change/examine/service while I'm in there?

I'm going to clean out the donut/intake etc and replace the 4 rubber hoses. I recently taped the intake (green O-ring/seal leak) and the system is dry, clean and solid. Check.

O-Rings? I hear it's a good idea to get some cooling system O-rings done while I have access. What would you recommend? BS828 Viton are the right size, correct?

Thanks for your ideas!

FMG -------------------------
2012 4.4 TDV8 Vogue
2001 Audi A2 1.4 16V
2019 Skoda Kodiaq (don't ask...)

Hello FMG

I have just completed my oil cooler change.

Here are my tips :

1. You can drain the coolant but it's not essential. If contaminated I would drain it first. On the L322 the bottom hose connection has spring clips and they are a to compress. No access with normal pliers because the subframe is in the way. Cheap remote access pliers do not get enough purchase so consider a good brand like Hazet or KS Tools.

2. When detaching everything in preparation for removing the donut/plenum be careful with the thin breather top hose (part of the four way connection above the radiator) that goes to the donut. Both ends can snap and you have to buy the complete assembly if it breaks (circa £110). I found it easier to detach that thin pipe from the donut end. But resist any urge to put your finger under the 90 degree bend and pull up on the fitting, simply squeeze the coloured buttons whilst inserting a thin screwdriver under the connection to gently prise the connector upwards from the base.

3. Release the oil filter housing by 3 turns to allow the oil down back into the engine. Before removing the cooler have a syringe ready to suck up any surplus oil from the channels. Dry the mating surfaces and put a light thin smear of fresh oil on new cooler seals.

4. O rings are BS611 Viton from memory

5. Hold on to every bolt because if you drop one you could spend hours searching for it.

6. Clean out the donut and any residue on the intake flap and any sensors.

7. If you drained the coolant vacuum fillers are the easiest way to fill the coolant system.

Hope that helps

Thanks for that! Good idea with the coolant drain. I’ve no idea how old the stuff that’s in there is, so I’m adding it to the service items about to be done once the cooler is changed.

I’ve already had the intake hose off to seal it, so I know to take care around that brittle connection. Crazy place to place something so fragile, but hey, that’s why we love our fatties…

Any tips on cleaning up the mess down the back of the engine while everything’s out of the way? I’m thinking just gallons of brake cleaner and a good brush followed by a couple of gallons more…

I can already hear the memsahib having a go at me for not putting something down to mop it all up…  -------------------------
2012 4.4 TDV8 Vogue
2001 Audi A2 1.4 16V
2019 Skoda Kodiaq (don't ask...)

I managed to obtain some linoleum flooring (a 1.5m x 2m unused offcut) from a local carpet store free of charge (!) and use that to protect the driveway on messy jobs like fluid changes.

The seals on my cooler were good, the problem was the aluminium housing had cracked. Only noticed it with a borescope and the crack was only visible when the cooler was bolted to the engine, as soon as the bolts were removed the crack closed and looked like just a rough finish on the casting.

I just used rags soaked with some Rustoleum extreme degreaser to clean any oil residue away but brake cleaner should work just as well. Same on the back of the subframe and housings underneath where the oil will have dripped onto.

And I know what you mean about that brittle pipe. When you look at the radiator bottom hose and the position of the spring clip it will test your love of the fatty ! Why did they not use jubilee clips instead of spring clips? Why is there no drain down valve? And why are the spring clips positioned in the most awkward place ... towards the top of the engine? And why is the radiator fan housing obstructing the remote access pliers? Too many questions and no answers !

Febi G12+ is the coolant you need. I managed to get away with 5L concentrate to give 10L mixed because you will not get all of it out.

Last edited by blackpool on 18th Oct 2022 12:43pm. Edited 1 time in total

Two more top tips ...

1. Pack some kitchen towels or rags under the connector on the right hand side of the cooler to catch any coolant that drains

2. The new cooler should have a plastic cover cap on the right hand side connector, take that off and put it on the old cooler (on the car) before removing the old cooler so it traps any coolant that has not drained out of the old cooler whilst you are manipulating the cooler up and away from the car.

You’re a star! Brilliant tips for the job. I’m actually looking forward to doing it now!

I’ve got a fair bit of cleaning to do down the back of the engine. The bell housing is filthy with old, dried oil, fresh oil adding layer upon layer of new filth to remove. Years of free rustproofing though, so I shouldn’t be complaining… I am looking forward to a non-oily pong when climbing out of the car after a run though!

The previous owner looked after the car well, but lived with the leaking cooler for ages, something I can’t quite fathom. Everything else on the car was in perfect nick.

I’m putting new tyres and new brakes on it for the winter - I want the peace of mind - and getting the gearbox serviced (I have a local flusher!), and then I’m good to go.

Fingers crossed it stays that way for a bit! -------------------------
2012 4.4 TDV8 Vogue
2001 Audi A2 1.4 16V
2019 Skoda Kodiaq (don't ask...)

Glad to be of assistance

It's a straight forward job. My only concern was any residual coolant dripping into the oil reservoir channels when the old cooler was manipulated up and then away from the engine but that never happened. Hence my precautions with swapping the plastic cap over and draining beforehand.

My next jobs are front and rear diff fluid changes (mine has the electronic locking rear so different fluids) transfer case fluid and ZF transmission filter and Lifeguard 8 fluid change. Plus when the weather improves I will spot sandblast/wire brush/needle gun any corrosion on subframes etc. before painting with satin black epoxy paint.

Just had new oil cooler on my 322 TDV8 4.4 MY 2012.
Noted a few oil drops on garage floor?

Would this be residual oil from the oil cooler change?

BTW all the engine oil was replaced too…..

Steve 4.4 TDV8 Sumatra Black + Ivory Leather

Where have people purchased their coolers from I have been looking at LRparts.net and a genuine landrover oil collier is £381 compared to oem at £143 is the genuine one worth the extra over the oem one? Current
2011 4.4TDV8 VSE
1972 MGBGT
Gone
2004 Discovery Landmark 2.5D
2003 Freelander TD4 SE

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Discount code AF4LRP  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
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My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

In the middle of this job myself. As usual a bit of a pig to work on these land rovers.

A warning for anyone planning this job themselves.

The studs holding the intake manifold down, four either side of the throttle body are very bad. Two of these hold the plastic nobs that the engine cover clips to at the front. One of these came off as I unscrewed the nobs with the t40, the other one screwed the nob off the stud. They have an e-torx head on the stud. Problem is, first one I tried was already munted (rounded) from someone else. Probably why these gaskets weren't replaced already. Second one I tried it just snapped the head of the stud off into my etorx socket. Great. I sprayed em all down with wd-40 all I had on hand as a penetrator. Managed to get 2 off with the two bolt stud removal trick (gotta remove the throttlebody from the intake to access the right side (looking at engine). Problem is the final, furthest back on the right side is impossible to get at with a spanner. Well you can, so if you had two nuts with the same inner thread but one with a larger diameter exterior you could access it from above with a long boy socket to pull it out. I can only move the spanner like 2cm and it's not enough.

Myself, lacking such and with my other cars blocked in by the rangie will probably going to try get something in there to cut the bracket and just have it held down with 3 bolts at the front going forward. Its a long story but I stripped the stud a bit and trying to get the bolt out with pliers I munted up my connector for the fuel pressure sensor, luckily I have the harness deletion kit for that since I have the interment low throttle power cut for the relevant TSB.