Just wondered if anyone has used the Smith and Allan Transguard 8 ATF long term and if there were any concerns? I've read a lot about people's preferences and you should only use ZF fluids and cheaper brands don't have the correct additive packages and have Bodsy do a mega flush etc etc.
I just want to know about the Smith and Allan one please.
I had the fluid changed at a ZF dealer 2 years ago but think something is not quite right in the lower gears and just want to try changing the fluid again.
Thanks Kev.

What exactly is the issue with the lower gears?. Have you checked the fluid level? 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

I saw a post on here from RRPhil stating that he would only ever use the correct ZF ATF fluid.
I've concluded from reading many posts that RRPhil knows more about these gearboxes than anyone else on here (or probably anyone in the UK or possibly the planet) so that is the advice I would follow.
I can't think of a reason to use anything other than the specified fluid (other than to save a few ££) especially when trying to find/cure a problem, if the problem doesn't change or gets worse you will always wonder if it was your cheaper fluid at fault.

I used the Smith & Allen to do a couple of double flushes prior to doing a filter change - but I put Lifeguard 6 (ZF) in at that change.
Now it might be a bit of an unfair comparison as the oil & filter had never been changed and there is in excess of 150k on the clock, however, even after pushing 20 litres through, the gearchanges never felt as smooth (they can still sometimes feel a bit 'unsettled' but that's a feature of these transmissions) as they do with the ZF oil in.

In my case, there may well be other variables to be considered as there was a HP fuel pump fault and a split inlet manifold when I bought it so the input torque will have been all over the place...

All good points and I thank you.
It seems to sometimes change to first when going slow say up to a junction when really I would have expected it to stay in second and then it feels like an old fashioned torque convertor slipping all the way through second and finally grabs in third.
All the remaining gears are very smooth going up and back down.
If I use the paddles the gears change instantly.
The first three gears just seem mushy and seem to slip, not positive engagement. The fluid level is correct.

How does the gearchange feel when you use the paddles? is it positive or still a bit 'unsure' as to which gear it is in?

At work if we get any auto transmission issues, the first thing that is checked is the service history, then, if serviced outside of the dealer network, if genuine oil has been used, if all good to that point, then software release level. If all that is OK. only then are extended diagnostics brought out to play. It's worth saying that probably only 10% of transmission issues are not cured by either a (genuine) oil & filter change or a software update. 'Hard' adaptions are only carried out if the valve body or associated components are replaced. We don't have any ZF transmissions though.

So, ATF fluid wise, oils are made to a specification. So, in theory it doesn't matter which brand you buy. Everyone has their view but specifications are specifications. Any good brand will ensure their oil complies with them.

However, it's not like you change ATF frequently so, unless you're on a budget at this moment in time, I'd just go with the genuine ZF fluid. If you shop around, it's not that much more expensive than buying another brand. I have found ordering from Germany can also be less expensive. And, as evidenced, these boxes will do well in excess of 100,000 miles on genuine ZF fluid with no issues, before most owners even consider changing. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

Just a point on specifications - these are the minimum performance specifications the oil has to meet to literally 'make the grade'. As has been pointed out many times, the modifiers which are added to the oil are over and above the specification, and often what differentiates the subjective 'quality' of the oil, of course, these additives are a closely guarded trade secret and part of the reason for a cost uplift - not just the cost of the additives, but in part, a recoup of the development costs, and yes, a decent profit margin.

The Smith & Allen cost me £99 for 20 litres Lifeguard 6 cost me just over that for 6 litres, not all of that can be explained away by 'profit'.

I rarely use the paddles except occasionally when towing my caravan but only in the top gears. I've never used them from a stand still so will give it a try tomorrow and see what happens.
I'll see if I can get a good deal on some Genuine oil. Opie oils want £69.95 a litre.
Seen it for about £30 elsewhere.

I got mine through work (sorry!) try Duckworth LR or Talexin on fleabay, they sell the genuine stuff.

I use the paddleshift most days in traffic, the shift can be better quality than the full auto experience, which says to me that my 'box is electromechanically OK, it's just the shift logic / criteria that's a bit woolly. I don't have any noteworthy / repeatable clutch slip or overly harsh shifts - I think most of the wrinkles will disappear once I give it a decent run up to the Yorkshire hills and back!

Cheapest I found on eBay was:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203974606314?mk...media=COPY

I think £24 a litre is what I would expect to pay
12 litres for a proper drain, refill, drain and refill

Thanks Rambles. They've only got three litres left. Might have to buy the odd one here and there. Moneys a bit tight at mo.