Tried searching for this but couldn't quite find anything related.


Replaced water pump, cracked coolant pipes and a leaking thermostat (among other things, see below):

1. Rangie reaches 60-70 degrees quite fast (quicker than before)
2. Reaching operating temperature (middle of the gauge) may take up to 2 hours of driving, sometimes it will only reach it on the second or third drive of the day.
3. When operating temperature is reached, it fluctuates, can go slightly higher, but more often goes lower, especially after highway drives.
4. Webasto heater is operating constantly, trying to warm up the coolant during the drive (usually it does it for the first 10-20 minutes, in winter anyway).

We've tried bleeding the coolant again in case there was any air trapped. That didn't help. My mechanic took a pause to think about what could be the cause.

If anyone had encountered this before, I'd greatly appreciate any tips! Thanks in advance!

Quote:

A bit of history:

I recently went to the service to fix a rattling thermal shield on the front right wheel brakes. Then we replaced the rear drive shaft... then we replaced the steering rack as the leak in the original one intensified (I went for the Bosch rack and plan on refurbishing the original one that we removed)... then we replaced the head gaskets... then the crankshaft gasket... rear break lines, water pump, thermostat, coolant pipes, some silent blocks... and that's on top of replacing the high pressure fuel pump (that died mid drive on me) the other month!

Now, everything was great, except one thing (well technically two things, because it took us 3 attempts to align the wheel angles because the touch points for the rear pull rods worn out on the rear subframe): the Rangie can't quite get up to the operating temperature.

Update:

Replaced thermostat and temperature sensor again, even though tests shown the ones installed were operating normally.

Next suspect is the Magneti Marelli pump - we suspect it may be circulating the fluid too fast. 2009 Range Rover Westminster 3.6 TDV8 Alaska White/Jet

The speed of the water pump will be determined by the size of the pulley and the engine speed so I'd be really surprised if it was spinning too fast. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Thanks for your response dhallworth!

I don't know. Perhaps this behaivour is normal? i.e. not reaching operating temperature quickly. Prior to the service, it took around 10 minutes to reach the working temperature even when it was really cold outside. After reaching the working temperature the coolant temperature indicator would stay dead in the middle of the gauge.

Now, it reaches the working temperature slowly, in summer it's around 20 minutes, in winter it can be 2 hours. And the gauge keeps moving ever so slightly back and forth.

We've checked everything - the pipes (which were also replaced), coolant reserviour (which was replaced), pump (which is the only non-LR part by Magnetti Marelli), the dealership even replaced the thermostat in the brand new thermostat case - everything seems to be in order. 2009 Range Rover Westminster 3.6 TDV8 Alaska White/Jet

we've also replaced the headgaskets and I wonder if it's at all related 2009 Range Rover Westminster 3.6 TDV8 Alaska White/Jet

If you've done all that work to it, is it possible the temperature sensor has had a knock and isn't reporting the temperature properly? 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Is the heating inside the car working normally? If so dhallworth's suggestion is a good shout.
Does your engine have one sensor for the ECU and a separate one for the gauge?

Have you scanned it to see what codes are there?

dhallworth wrote:

If you've done all that work to it, is it possible the temperature sensor has had a knock and isn't reporting the temperature properly?

My 4.4 TDV8 showed up to temp on dial but wouldn't fully initiate DPF cleaning as it was keeping the engine temp too low by being open all the time due to the thermostat housing being damaged by a servicing garage and reading it was hotter than it actually was. Turned out the housing had been cracked and damaged - a sign of this was the fan being on most of the time, trying to cool an already cool engine!! .

Does the tdv8 have also gearbox oil cooler like earlier bmw L322? If yes, then there is thermostat inside there and when it’s stuck open you have exactly those symptoms. Take Hella/Behr part.

dingg1 wrote:

Have you scanned it to see what codes are there?

kevinp wrote:

Is the heating inside the car working normally? If so dhallworth's suggestion is a good shout.
Does your engine have one sensor for the ECU and a separate one for the gauge?

Dolphinboy wrote:

My 4.4 TDV8 showed up to temp on dial but wouldn't fully initiate DPF cleaning as it was keeping the engine temp too low by being open all the time due to the thermostat housing being damaged by a servicing garage and reading it was hotter than it actually was. Turned out the housing had been cracked and damaged - a sign of this was the fan being on most of the time, trying to cool an already cool engine!!

322BLL wrote:

Does the tdv8 have also gearbox oil cooler like earlier bmw L322? If yes, then there is thermostat inside there and when it’s stuck open you have exactly those symptoms. Take Hella/Behr part.