Had the steering column lock repaired a couple months ago. Experienced what I thought was a hiccup with it (key not turning) so after restoring normal function with the...rubber mallet I installed the goldcar key emulator I had procured just in case. Local indy has been super busy since summer so we haven't really had the chance to take another look at the lock...

This morning tried to start the car, key wouldn't turn. I had this happen once again during the past few weeks, with the emulator on, but it promptly resolved by inserting and removing the key. Only this time, nothing seems to help.

I tried pulling fuse 18: no joy

Pulled negative lead: nothing

Removed steering column trim and checked the emulator: Red led when no key is present, Green led when key is inserted. Which means that there is correct signal of key presence in the ignition barrel.

Removed emulator and connected the SCL as normal: no effect

At this point I am at a loss as to what the problem might be.

Is the IGNITION lock barrel using a locking pin or something that has possibly failed?

I DO still hear action at / around the ignition lock whenever the key is inserted...

Any help appreciated

I had similar on the Td6. Needed to change the ignition switch, On your MY the position of the switch makes it a magnet for carp. John
2008 Stornoway Grey 3.6 Tdv8 Vogue
2005 TD6 Java Black Vogue - Written off!!
GAP iiD BT
2003 Discovery TD5 Auto, Nanocom Evolution - gone to a new home!
MasseyFerguson 152 - No electronics!! - Sold

Thanks John,

Before I go for another switch, are there any ways to confirm the diagnosis? I understand there is a locking plunger in the barrel mechanism. I still hear and feel some action whenever the key is inserted / pulled so it might not be the culprit.

I haven't tried the original key

I haven't tried charging the battery

I haven't tried pulling fuse 18 with the original SCL connected

When I search for ignition switch as a part, I do not see the plunger assembly with it.

Any guidance appreciated

Update.

Got the original key back from my buddy but it didn't turn either.

Checked the battery and found it at 12,1V
Hooked IID with ignition off and did NOT pick up any related codes. Attempted to clear codes found but "update failed"
IID showed 11,9V
-With the emulator connected, the key insertion seems to trigger the correct signal as the emulator led turns from red to green. Then a faint click is heard at the lock barrel. (Signals exchange seems to take place)
-With the normal SCL ecu connected, upon key insertion, NO clicks are heard neither from the lock nor from the key barrel. (Signals exchange does not apparently take place)
I assume the motorized SCL requires much more energy compared to the emulator, which is a mere pcb with chips on it...
For the activation of the ignition, per workshop manual one more signal is required, the one from the automatic transmission ECU. I assume this is absent due to low battery.

Will charge the battery for a few hours and retry.

Meanwhile I've got her booked with another garage. The guys come highly recommended and sounded like they know their stuff. At least they were familiar with my references to emulators, solenoids, IID etc and listened closely to what I had to say. Because I can really tell when this stuff is all Greek to the person I'm talking to...

IF I do manage to start her up, I'll at the very least, change the battery for the biggest one I can get a hold of and thoroughly check the alternator to rule that out as a root cause...

Well,

This was sooner than I expected.

Charging the battery made no difference. But I managed to start the car by jiggling the key several times in the lock.

I then tested the SCL but that seems stuck for good (so much for my €350) but still got the €40 emulator which is just flawless...

It seems like the lock barrel is the culprit so I'll have the guys look into it tomorrow.

Checked the alternator and with all lighting + stereo + navi + phone on charge shows 14,2V so I guess this can be ruled out.

If I can get away with my scalp intact with the lock check tomorrow, I'll change the battery too for good measure...

Okay, to wrap this up:

Went to the LR indy and had the ignition lock barrel thoroughly blown with compressed air while vacuumed. Then cleaned with contact spray and copious amounts of lubricant. Spraying and wiping again and again, until that dark coloured filth stopped coming out of it.
This seems to have eliminated the problem and the key feels more "precise" if I may put it that way... They are of the opinion that the wafers are probably a bit worn. But so far, so good...

Also checked the battery, it passed all tests. No reason spending on it right now.