I have recently replaced my front air struts and I am finding it difficult to get the camber adjustment done when I go to get an alignment. Originally I went to the dealer and that was another story.

The alignment place says they are unable to adjust camber on the front as there is a little plastic piece at the top of the new strut that has to be snapped off and also they don't have the land rover tool (LRT 57-045) see link: https://www.google.com/search?q=LRT+57-045...mp;bih=539


Currently they have left the front camber set at-
Left front 0 degree 13'
Right -0 degree 25'

I have read posts that say camber on the front should be - front left to 1 degree negative and right side .5 to .75 of a degree or 30- 45 minutes of 1 degree negative. Not sure if thats for left hand drive of if that matters.

My RR L322 2006 is right hand drive

Is the answer that L322 owners have to buy the tool if they don't want to go to a dealer

I would be interested to hear if anyone has got this sorted.

Bruce

I'll be suggesting the nuts be sufficiently loosened to allow them to be tapped sideways as required.

I'm with Graame, just loosen the 3 nuts securing the top of the strut and move it till it is in spec - not sure what the special tool gives you other athn a bit more control maybe?

Cheers,

MM 2011 TDV8 AB
2006 TD6 AB (Gone to Wales)

considering the bolts/nuts that hold the strut to the hub, maybe there is suffiicient clearence of the bolts in the strut to slacken those off and adjust camber that way?

For all vehicles (up to 2010), the position of the studs should be marked before removal to ensure correct alignment on replacement or fitting of new strut, and thus the camber is retained. I am with the others, loosen three studs and tap with a hammer until camber is correct. You shouldn't "have to" snap off the plastic cone unless things are really out of kilter.... .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
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Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Did the alignment place settle the car properly before putting it on the ramp

It really needs winding up to top height, down to bottom access mode then back up to standard then driving for a few yards to settle it on flat ground. Either that or putting it into tight tolerance mode with a diagnostics tool.

See if you can find another alignment place who have a hawkeye and get the first places measurements checked out. To be that far out on the camber is odd, and shout be noticeable visibly I should think. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
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Blue Hornet wrote:

Left front 0 degree 13'
Right -0 degree 25'

and when fitting strut everything should be tightened up with the "wheel on the ground", i.e. weight on suspension. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Just cannot get enough camber by moving the top of the air strut to required settings even with LRT 57-045

I have just purchased 2 Eibach camber bolts for my L322 2006 AJV8 Eibach website says the bolts give you +/- 1.75 camber adjustment so I think that will get me there.

Has anyone installed the Eibach Bolts??

Just into the RR world and had LCArms replaced.. alignment place said everything was perfect but didn't know how to adjust front CAMBER..
1.. was happy that everything was ok
2... thought it would be straightforward for camber adjustment
Is it as simple as loosening the 3 bolts and tapping.. or doya need the LR tool
l322 range rover lrt-57-045 camber tool???

Hi,
Its as easy as loosening the bolts and tapping across. Adjusted mine that way with no problem.
The little plastic point sticking up does limit the amount of adjustment. I guess if you needed a bit more you could snap it off or use a demell type device and grind a bit of the plastic away. 2011 Range Rover Autobiography TDV8 Buckingham Blue

The plastic point is purely for ease of fitting the strut and should be removed if more adjustment is required.

Joe90 wrote:

For all vehicles (up to 2010), the position of the studs should be marked before removal to ensure correct alignment on replacement or fitting of new strut, and thus the camber is retained. I am with the others, loosen three studs and tap with a hammer until camber is correct. You shouldn't "have to" snap off the plastic cone unless things are really out of kilter....