I'm[list=] going to do a full service on our SC Autob within the next few weeks and i’m after some clarification. I’ll do all the oils and fluids etc.
Regarding the ‘box’, I’m going to do a flush using ‘the big tub of fluid gravity fed method’ as described by ur20v. Obviously I’ll have a new filter/sump plus the bridge seal, sleeve and tube seals.
What I want to know is it worth changing the solenoids or giving the original ones a gentle clean, either with solvents or an ultrasonic bath while I’m in there? What difference does putting new solenoids in make? Is it required? There are plenty on fleabay, Amazon, but are they cheap Chinese rubbish that should just go in the bin?
Also regarding fluid. Has anyone here in Oz used Penrite oils in your box? I’ve done a bit of research and the ATF BMV meets spec ie Mercon LV, Lifeguard 6/8/9 etc. Castrol is available too.
Any help is most welcome.
Andy[/list]

Last edited by andyducati on 27th Jul 2021 3:26am. Edited 1 time in total

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Last edited by ur20v on 4th Oct 2021 2:49pm. Edited 1 time in total

"If it ain't broke don't fix it" should be etched on the side of every fatty box...

And don't reset adaptions either.... Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

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Last edited by ur20v on 4th Oct 2021 2:49pm. Edited 1 time in total

Thanks all. All comments are a good point. I wasn't sure about the solenoids, just read on another post about changing the solenoids.
Anyway the box is a bit sluggish and does thump very occasionally and has not been done previously as far as I know. Car has 165000 KMs on it. I did the timing chains and guides last year along with the waterpump and charger rebuild. Its so much better than it was. just need to do the gearbox.

my biggest question is which fluid do I use? Penrite is big here in Melbourne and they do have a fluid that meets spec. Or do I just get Lifeguard fluid.

Cheers
Andy A Solihull born Pom in Oz

Which fluid to use?
Why would you not use the recommended fluid?
This is recommended by LR,ZF and most importantly by RRPhil who has an amazing knowledge of all things autobox related

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Last edited by ur20v on 4th Oct 2021 2:49pm. Edited 1 time in total

andyducati wrote:

they do have a fluid that meets spec.

I'm not saying their oil is or isn't an exact copy of the ZF approved oil but no one, including the original oil maker, state what friction modifiers and other additives are in the oil, the base stock maybe the same but this doesn't mean the whole package is the same...

It "might" be exactly the same... there again, loads of people have found out the hard way that "some times" it isn't....

If you are happy using another oil on that basis then great...

Also IMHO with the miles on your box I would just do a drop what's in the sump, change the sump and refill with new, then drop and change it again in a few thousand miles... why...?

Swapping out all the oil in one go will shock the box as the pressures within will rise sharply... do a few drop and fills and you gently raise the pressures and the box has time to adapt...

I might be talking but that way has always worked for me....

Again, it's all down to what you are happy to try with your box..

Good Luck...  Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

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Last edited by ur20v on 4th Oct 2021 2:49pm. Edited 1 time in total

Fact - LRPhil knows these boxes inside out, quite literally, he knows more about these than me. Read a few of his posts on here.
Opinion - he probably knows more about these than anyone else on here (or possibly the UK)
Fact - he repeatedly advises the use of LIfeguard fluids
Fact - best outcome is you save a handful of dollars using a cheaper oil, worst outcome is you spend a big pile of dollars fixing a wrecked box.
Opinion- With any lubricant, as long as the “correct” fluid is available I can’t see any reason to use an alternative, not many of us buy a Rangerover to save money

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Last edited by ur20v on 4th Oct 2021 2:50pm. Edited 1 time in total

This is the information sheet for the Penrite BMV oil. https://www.penriteoil.com.au/assets/pis_p...20Syn).pdf
And the SDS the penrite oil.
https://www.penriteoil.com.au/assets/msds/...201017.pdf

I’m not pushing the Penrite oil it’s just readily available. The ZF lifeguard is less so and almost 10 times the price here.

If RRPhil could have a look and say his thoughts would be great.

Andy A Solihull born Pom in Oz

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