Yeah I've got about an inch of water in my Rear Offside light cluster which I thought was moisture/condensation (thicko me) until taking a GOOD look a few days ago - after removing the two - is it torque - screws with a sturdy flat head driver and giving the light unit a good wobble.
My RR is a 2012 TDV8 4.4 Westminster L322, and I was wondering both if anyone has tried emptying the lower section of the cluster of water (which I guess comes mainly from when you open the rear hatch following rain) and drying out rather than replacing. My local LR/RR specialist (specialists unless you have a problem - if you know what I mean) quoted around £262.00 supply fitted, but there must be a way to get inside and empty, dry and retain?!?
I noticed four big Philips screws in clear view of the inside of the cluster body?!?
I thought I'd ask as I don't want to accidentally get water onto electrical parts if I tip the unit upside down or such, and annoy the beastie enough for it to send heart-thumping alerts on the steering wheel screen...

Also would consider buying good second hand or breakers clusters...

I'll try a piccie - though the driver side and not the one (left from rear) in question...

I used to get that in my fatty off roader after wading, I drilled a very small hole in the bottom to let it drain out...

It shouldn't attract water normally, must have a break or split somewhere...!! Pete
I now have permission from the boss to use Y.O.L.O. Enjoy life
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

there is lots on this forum ref this. do a search. Mine had a slight leak in the top right, invisible to to see with the eye. sealed with glue and dried out.

Follow the advice on the threads and you will be fine.

As above, drill a small hidden hole to let the water out then reseal the whole light and refit..

Thanks for these tips all. Yes I have been searching and have happened across a few posts almost similar in nature.... Just wanted to be a tad more specific and also some of the closely relevant posts are quite old, and we learn different things as time goes by...
Had thought of the 'drill a tiny hole' suggestion, though was hoping for conformation - which you gave with thanks!
Learnt something new though: My beastie is sometimes called a Fatty...
Thanks for the tips anyway - even though it isn't a really meaty problem...

I did what Craig suggested drilled the holed drained the water and resealed, surprisingly (to me at least) the water was getting in though the screw holes on the back not the seams. How do I know I injected (with a syringe) some soapy water and the blew it out with a compressor and watched for the tell tale bubbles. I left the hole as a vent but no water got in through it. Geoff

Interesting yet again, ss... I guess you mean the four big Philips screws at rear of light cluster?!? If so, I would not have suspected any water ingress from that area!!! On mine this area is or appears bone dry - whereas the inner side wall seam/join between black body and clear perspex lens, which is hidden when hatch is closed, has damp and moss like similar at car window rubbers during winter?!? Looks like I'm heading towards the tiny drilled hole - so I guess start with 1mm slow drill bit size and increase bit size until water evacuates! Then plug!
Cheers for this, ss...
Was gonna add an L322 lens cluster or set of clusters required on wanted thread, but I'm too much of a newby just now it seems...
Wonder what those four screws undo? Does the unit come apart? I think they are Xenon (LED?!?) lights?!? Would like a cheap busted one to play about with...

Mine was/is an L405 so might not be the same but I think the rational is the same, get the water out and seal everything  Geoff

Wrenched (that lecky connect plug is so damned tight - my nicely manicured nails sod it )) the cluster off yesterday, ready to punch a hole in it at lower edge, but didn't need to, as the water started gushing out (where the heck does it hide?) without the addition of a drilled hole as the clear plastic to dark plastic join/seam (do those four torque screws tighten this join/seal?) had a 2mm gap in it, so ingress-ed water did flow out with ease once unit was tilted.
After emptying I left the cluster unit in the sun in the lean-to/conservatory/observatory and the built up condensation that was inside reduced about 30% in two hours. Have it close but not too close to a radiator this morning, and will pop under the sun's rays if it appears today. I reckon the condensation might be gone in a few days time.
Maybe I'll put up a few piccies of what I plan to do with cluster next, using clear silicone, but it'll be really boring, I know...

When you think all the condensation has gone, seal it in a plastic bag over night, that will show if any is left...  Pete
I now have permission from the boss to use Y.O.L.O. Enjoy life
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Gotcha - that makes sense!!! Saw another vid on-line where the cluster (sounds like something existing way out in the deep cosmos ) was put in a corrugated/cardboard box with a section of same material slotted in diagonally and an air-dryer was directed towards the diagonal section so not in direct contact with the cluster and this also seemed to gradually dry the cluster out... Took a few hours though...

This was how much condensation was left inside light cluster after slightly prising join/seam apart with screw driver and letting about an inch to inch and a half of water gush out. Dried off indoors for several days, then sealed with clear silicone to the hatch, and lower section seams edges.

Couldn't get all the condensation out - but at least there's not water sloshing about in the bottom of the cluster...

All re-fitted and fully tested AOK in about ten minutes...

Must use the wanted items thread when it lets me in to see if any cracked un-wanted clusters going cheapy cheapy, for dissection and seeing what those four torque screws undo and a good around look inside...

Click image to enlarge