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Home > Technical (L322) > Park Assist - step by step diagnosis

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bishbosh10

Member Since: 25 Apr 2013
Location: North Somerset
Posts: 344

Park Assist - step by step diagnosis

Now don't get excited, this isn't a guide showing you "how to", it is me asking "how to"

2011 4.4TDV8

My front and rear sensors packed up a while ago after some intermittent random behaviour. I now have no sensors and the dash switch is dead too.

I have read umpteen threads on umpteen forums (fora?) and not found a lot to conclusively diagnose my symptoms so I am going to use this thread to document what I find, learn and hopefully fix! (with a bucket load of help from you lot obviously!)

This is the best thread I have found:

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic46410.html

So yesterday I plugged in my shiny new iiD tool and got this fault: U0159 Lost Communication With Park Assist Control Module

Click image to enlarge

I also dug out the electrical diagrams to properly confuse myself:

https://www.fullfatrr.com/gallery/albums/u...ameras.pdf

https://www.fullfatrr.com/gallery/albums/u...%20box.pdf

(How do you insert PDF images??)

From my reading of this I had to check fuse 3R, which according to the handbook is 5A but the WSM says 10A which it turned out to be in my car. Fuse checked out OK and had 12V to it when ignition on. Fuse is located in the rear fuse panel in the RHS of the boot (driver's side on RHD cars)

I then found the park assist module (PAM) behind the cover on the LHS of the boot. No evidence of water ingress which I took to be a positive.

So I then disconnected and removed the module:

Click image to enlarge

There was a tiny bit of green oxidation on a couple of pins but nothing significant. (Almost identical to the images in the post I linked to above) I cleaned them up as best I could and reconnected with no change.

I then started checking voltage on the pins with the ignition on.

Working through the wiring on the larger tan coloured connector which is all the cabling on the left hand side of the PAM diagram

The Black and yellow feed from fuse 3A was at 12V.

I had continuity on the black earth wire to an earth point on the car.

The yellow/blue feed had 2.2V
The YW feed had 2.7V

Both the GN and GU feeds from the switch were at 0V

So my uneducated conclusion from this is that the PAM is receiving inputs but not acting on them pointing at a faulty module....?

Before I replace the module (with one from ebay) can anyone see a major flaw in my plan? Bish.

2005 110 TD5 CSW
2011 TDV8 Vogue SE (gone)

15th Feb 2021 2:32pm

Haylands

Member Since: 04 Mar 2014
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 8518

2014 Range Rover Autobiography SDV8 Loire Blue

Could be....

I'd check the continuity of the front and rear PDC sensor looms first as it's free and these are well known for failing....... Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

15th Feb 2021 2:59pm

bishbosh10

Member Since: 25 Apr 2013
Location: North Somerset
Posts: 344

Wouldn't that show up as a fault with a specific sensor on the iiD though? Rather than a complete lack of comms with the PAM? Bish.

2005 110 TD5 CSW
2011 TDV8 Vogue SE (gone)

17th Feb 2021 4:24pm

t5pete

Member Since: 31 Aug 2020
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 114

2011 Range Rover Autobiography TDV8 Santorini Black

That's the same module as mine, after some research it was thought that most of the modules were interchangeable I bought a used unit with similar numbers but not exact and it didn't work at all, whether it was a duff unit or just not compatible I don't know the next on my list is to test the looms as got the same symptoms.

No park assist front or rear
No clicking from Any of the sensors
The dash light button does flicker ever now and again.

17th Feb 2021 10:42pm

t5pete

Member Since: 31 Aug 2020
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 114

17th Feb 2021 10:42pm

Cam-Tech-Craig

Member Since: 04 Aug 2011
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 16334

2015 Range Rover SVAutobiography SDV8 Loire Blue

U0159 Lost Communication With Park Assist Control Module

That fault code is a bit of a red herring as it's a U code, this means it's voltage related... IE, when you try to start your car with a 1/2 flat battery, this is where you get spurious fault codes like this...

18th Feb 2021 1:13am

bishbosh10

Member Since: 25 Apr 2013
Location: North Somerset
Posts: 344

Thanks Craig, that is interesting. I'll clear the faults with the engine running and check what new ones come up and report back. Bish.

2005 110 TD5 CSW
2011 TDV8 Vogue SE (gone)

18th Feb 2021 1:08pm

Haylands

Member Since: 04 Mar 2014
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 8518

bishbosh10 wrote:
Wouldn't that show up as a fault with a specific sensor on the iiD though? Rather than a complete lack of comms with the PAM?

Sorry, missed your post.

The one thing I have learnt with fattys is do not rule anything out, and do not presume anything... start with the cheapest and easies checks before throwing money at it...

Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

18th Feb 2021 1:58pm

bishbosh10

Member Since: 25 Apr 2013
Location: North Somerset
Posts: 344

OK so I finally got some me time in the garage.

Following the advice here I set about checking the wiring loom and decided the back would be my first target.

Took the rear bumper off which is relatively easy following any number of guides on the web. the only bit thtat was consistently missing was how to release the three clips along each rear wing. the Powerful UK video just says pull which resulted in snapped clips so not the best solution.

What you need to do is locate each clip, working from the wheel arch rearwards and depress them with a tool. I used a blunt screwdriver and it is hard to know if you have actually successfully depressed the clip and you cannot lever against them without risking damage to the upper wing skin. anyhow, another post on here gave some dimensions which were pretty good and so I thought I'd document them here:

First clip:

Click image to enlarge

Second (broken, maybe by me but not sure

)

Click image to enlarge

and the last one:

Click image to enlarge

Once the bumper is off it is easy to strip out the loom and remove the parking sensors from the back:

I then tested continuity on all pins of all sensors with no failures between the plug that connects to the module and the plug that connect to the sensor.

I was also getting about 1.9V at the sensor wire with the ignition on which suggests something is getting through the module which is good...?

I then tested the sensors themselves, looking for 20 - 40kOhms between pins 1 & 2 and 2 and 3. All good there too

Whilst I had the bumper off I decided to tidy up the metal bumper underneath that had a bit of surface corrosion:

Click image to enlarge

I also treated her to new fixings as the old ones were very crusty:

So whilst it s nice to take her apart and put her back together, all I can conclude is that there is nothing wrong with her rear end!

I checked the fault codes with the engine running and got the same one. I am now thinking I'll attack the dash next and see if it isn't the switch that has packed up? Or shall I take the front bumper off next?? Bish.

2005 110 TD5 CSW
2011 TDV8 Vogue SE (gone)

29th Mar 2021 1:54pm

bishbosh10

Member Since: 25 Apr 2013
Location: North Somerset
Posts: 344

OK so the front bumper came off this weekend. Straight forwards to do and you definitely don't need to take the wheels off to do it. Best video I have found is this one. Not in English but a picture paints a thousand words etc. etc.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRFX4vkRyM0

I rested the bumper on a pile of towels to keep the off side reasonably high as there isn't much slack in the loom.

After that I did the same as the rear - loom out, sensors out and everything checked over for continuity and resistance. All good. I also checked continuity from the plug in the boot to the plug at the front bumper. All good.

So now definitely hunting for a used module. AH42-15K866-BG Bish.

2005 110 TD5 CSW
2011 TDV8 Vogue SE (gone)

6th Apr 2021 1:45pm

t5pete

Member Since: 31 Aug 2020
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 114

Mine was the AH42 and I replaced mine with discovery 4 unit just made sure the central numbers were the same and the coding near the bottom was similar.

Click image to enlarge

10th Apr 2021 7:02pm

t5pete

Member Since: 31 Aug 2020
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 114

Just to note also tried a freelander 2 one and that didn't work

10th Apr 2021 7:03pm

bishbosh10

Member Since: 25 Apr 2013
Location: North Somerset
Posts: 344

So to close this out, decided to buy a warranted used part from eBay. Plugged it in, cleared all existing faults and all sensors now working and no new faults.

Out of curiosity I opened up the faulty unit to see if I could spot any damage....

Click image to enlarge

Bish.

2005 110 TD5 CSW
2011 TDV8 Vogue SE (gone)

14th Apr 2021 9:51pm

misternomer

Member Since: 17 Nov 2021
Location: Kent
Posts: 11

2011 Range Rover Westminster 4.4 V8 Santorini Black

Thar's yer problem. Nice work and very helpful pics. Thanks

13th Dec 2021 2:06pm

mcspreader

Member Since: 28 Jan 2017
Location: cornwall
Posts: 57

2010 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Zermatt Silver

bishbosh10 wrote:

Many thanks for this. Not my exact problem but your attention to detail has certainly given me a good steer and probably avoided a lot of unnecessary fiddling around. 2011c Vogue SE 4.4 Oil Burner
1991 Hilux 2.4d MkIII. Sadly goone due to space and time.
2008 Skoda Octavia Scout
2000 TVR Tuscan 4.0
Loads of crap. Gone

16th Dec 2023 1:32am

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