northernmonkeyjones wrote:

It’s to seal the floor and reduce suction on the coating from the substrate ie concrete.

Basic PVA will do the job and it’s cheap and fine on a dry floor. However PVA remains water soluble even after drying, so if the floor doesn’t have a DPC under it or is fairly newly laid then it’s advisible to use an SBR primer instead which isn’t water soluble once cured.

Thanks. Floor is very dry and laid in 1985. No idea if DPC. Thoughts? What is SBR primer?

Would you also use the PVA on the bare breeze block walls?  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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Paint/coatings will always fail where tyres are in contact for periods of time. Best advice is either tile with commercial (strong tiles) or place rubber mats where the car/tyres sit.

Rob,

my floor is holding up well so far and had a couple of cars in for service too no issues with paint failing.
the PVA is used to seal the floor a bit and give the new paint something to bond with, i would maybe do x2 coats of PVA 10 parts water to 1 part PVA leave 24hrs between each coat. Then paint with the floor paint. give the paint time to cure fully in cooler temps this can take 5-7 days.

you should be good then.  2012 Vogue 4.4 TDV8 - Current
2014 Navara V6 - Gone
2004 Vogue TD6 - Gone
Grand Cherokee - Gone
Discovery V8 (LPG) - Gone
Discovery TD5 - Gone