Hi folks,

I got the dreaded Suspension Fault 30 Mph warning on the way home today. Suspension totally flat out and ride was very rough as I could feel every bump on the road.

After parking it for 5 minutes on the driveway, I started the fatty and it returned to normal height.

Upon scanning, I found the following codes: (any idea where to start? Could it be due to the weather of there is an underlining issue)

HVAC-Ventilation
B12A6-11 (2F) Auxiliary heater water pump - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground ( on 06-12-2020 15:45:55 at 109879 mi )
B12A6-15 (2F) Auxiliary heater water pump - General electrical failure - circuit short to battery or open ( on 06-12-2020 15:45:55 at 109879 mi )

RLM-Suspension
C1A07-62 (6C) Cross articulation - Algorithm based failure - signal compare failure ( on 06-12-2020 15:17:24 at 109871 mi )

Please advise Current:
- L560 Velar HSE R-Dynamic D180
- Peugeot 508 2011 - 2.2 HDi GT

Past:
- FFRR V 2010 - 3.6 TDV8
- Citroen C4 1.6i Petrol
- Mitsubishi Shogun 3.2 DID
- Peugeot 607 2.2 HDi
- Nissan Primera 1.8 SVE
- Honda Civic 1.6 VTEC

Sure you didn't set off in off road height easily done. As well as HDC! Help got CAR OWNER VIRUS!

That I cant tell.. bizzare how the heating pump and suspension code came up together.

Been reading here where some other threads are pointing at height adjusting sensors. Will look at the live readings tomorrow.. just hope its not a leak.. Current:
- L560 Velar HSE R-Dynamic D180
- Peugeot 508 2011 - 2.2 HDi GT

Past:
- FFRR V 2010 - 3.6 TDV8
- Citroen C4 1.6i Petrol
- Mitsubishi Shogun 3.2 DID
- Peugeot 607 2.2 HDi
- Nissan Primera 1.8 SVE
- Honda Civic 1.6 VTEC

Any thoughts on the fault codes folks?

I took it out for a ride and it was fine. Took some live values.

At Access Level:

[img]https://www.fullfatrr.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18422/normal_Screenshot_20201207-183937_IIDControl.jpg[/img]

At Normal Height Level:

[img]https://www.fullfatrr.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18422/normal_Screenshot_20201207-184000_IIDControl.jpg[/img] Current:
- L560 Velar HSE R-Dynamic D180
- Peugeot 508 2011 - 2.2 HDi GT

Past:
- FFRR V 2010 - 3.6 TDV8
- Citroen C4 1.6i Petrol
- Mitsubishi Shogun 3.2 DID
- Peugeot 607 2.2 HDi
- Nissan Primera 1.8 SVE
- Honda Civic 1.6 VTEC

Thoughts on fault code as requested:

The two for the aux heater water pump have come up on mine several times in the last year. I found these when looking for an RP on the dash. That was the water in fuel filter. I don't think these pump indications had any bearing on the cars operation but will be happy to be corrected. I feel that these came up due to a low battery level after short runs. Having kept the FF on a charger recently they have not reappeared. YET. FBH runs on remote and when car starts at relevant outside air temperature.

As to the suspension, I am not sure, but you could look at the sensors as you suggest and perhaps search on the compressor faults and its outlet silencer blocking up. Cheers
Richard

(there are no such things as an ordinary FullFat, an ordinary cat or too many tools)
2011 TDV8 Vogue Santorini Black
Gap IIDBT

Thanks Richard,

Does anyone know if the Recalibrate option on the GAP IID tool reset to factory or zeriose everything?

Under the option there are 3 settings and I don't know which one is which or what to use.

Also, any thoughts on the sensor voltages to pin point which one is faulty?

Please advise. Current:
- L560 Velar HSE R-Dynamic D180
- Peugeot 508 2011 - 2.2 HDi GT

Past:
- FFRR V 2010 - 3.6 TDV8
- Citroen C4 1.6i Petrol
- Mitsubishi Shogun 3.2 DID
- Peugeot 607 2.2 HDi
- Nissan Primera 1.8 SVE
- Honda Civic 1.6 VTEC

When I've had a bad height sensor the output voltage didn't really give anything away. It's supposed to vary depending on the height as it's effectively a variable resistor like a Scalextric controller.

What did give me an indication of the issue was the supply voltage was showing up as slightly different. So instead of being 5v dead (or whatever it is) the dodgy one was showing as 0.5v one way or the other.

Hope this helps,

Jon 1992 RR Classic 3.9 efi Vogue
2014 Disco 4 HSE
===================
Both my fatties now gone...
Previous: 2011 L322 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE /// 2002 L322 4.4 V8 HSE /// 2009 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 XS /// 2004 Defender 90 TD5 /// 1993 110 V8 Snatch Landrover /// 2005 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 SE (Aus) /// 1990 110 Isuzu 3.9 County (Aus) /// 1976 Series III Trayback (Aus)

Usually get suspension fault if take off too fast, before vehicle has time to raise to normal height. Turning ignition off and restarting again, at a safe and early opportunity, resolves issue. Usually happens 3 or 4 times a year. I'm not losing sleep over it. Previous cars:
S-Max 2007-2013 (only diesel I've had, good car but expensive when diesely bits go wrong, so what's the point?)
Galaxy 2001-2007
Mondeo Estate 1997-2001
Sierra Estate 1993-1997
Uno Turbo 1987 -1993
Fiesta 1984 - 1987
Fiat 127 1982 - 1984

I would begin by re-charging battery then clearing fault codes and monitor.
i had random un related codes appear including gearbox fault and a couple of other things. charged the battery all is well a few week along the line.
these cars seem very sensitive to battery charge and condition. 2012 Vogue 4.4 TDV8 - Current
2014 Navara V6 - Gone
2004 Vogue TD6 - Gone
Grand Cherokee - Gone
Discovery V8 (LPG) - Gone
Discovery TD5 - Gone

All the above are good points, however it is worth noting the first few times it gets frosty each year there are a significant number of instances of L322 suspension drops.

The cold weather makes the rubber brittle - front left is the most often to go as that takes the most punishment - bumpier part of the road + weight of the engine etc.

Last year mine did what yours did a couple of times, then went completely 2 days later and wouldn't pump back up.
It could, of course, just be co-incidence.

Good luck!

.

Thanks folks, its been 2 days and it has been fine.. so could only think of the gremlins from the recent rain, then snow and the frost.

The battery was replaced last month and its all fine in terms of voltage etc. But will stick on the battery conditioner on.

Whats the best practice, do you take off the negative and then stick on the charger. On my old battery, I just use to stick it on with negative cable in situ. Current:
- L560 Velar HSE R-Dynamic D180
- Peugeot 508 2011 - 2.2 HDi GT

Past:
- FFRR V 2010 - 3.6 TDV8
- Citroen C4 1.6i Petrol
- Mitsubishi Shogun 3.2 DID
- Peugeot 607 2.2 HDi
- Nissan Primera 1.8 SVE
- Honda Civic 1.6 VTEC