Certainly no issues yet - ie the car hasn't gone into electrical melt down.

I used the FBH on a full burn cycle and it ran for the full time and then shut down normally, where as before it was cutting out. To top it off, when I started the car I didn't get the usual "HDC Inactive" warning I always used to get after running the FBH for more than 15 minutes.

I've measured the charge voltage with engine idle before fitting and after fitting and it stays the same, so the alt can obviously cope with the extra output.


The only problems I foresee could be; In the winter when both batteries are low and all electrical accessories are on - will the alt have enough power then to supply all accessories and charge both batteries. However - the flip side of this is that with all accessories on there will be two batteries to supply the power, so in fact it could still end up being a benefit.

In an ideal world you would run separate cable to the front of the car, but on a RR that is no small feat. My 40Amp fuse is still intact and being that it runs over what looks like a 200A cable which itself is fused to 100A so there are multiple fail-safes to protect the cars wiring.

Tony, in answer to your question - there is a bracket either side of the battery, I will be fitting a strap to hold the battery in place. It's fairly tight in there so it can't go anywhere. The only time it would come out would be if the car was upside down. And frankly if the car was on it's roof I'd have bigger things to worry about

Dan 

so how have u wired it all in dan would u be able to put it on here where you connected everything

nb obviously only takkle this job if your competent with electrics this aplies to everybody  onto no6 Range Rover

Everyone needs a hobby

speedymarktd6 wrote:

so how have u wired it all in dan would u be able to put it on here where you connected everything

nb obviously only takkle this job if your competent with electrics

If you can wire a plug then you can do this mod. As long as you can cope with positive and negative cables you'll be fine, life's made easy with them being Black and Red!

You only need basic tools and there is no cutting or splicing of the vehicle wiring. You'll need a 10mm socket, a crimp tool and some wire cutters.

This is where I ran my cables:

Click image to enlarge

+/- Points by d86cfv, on Flickr 

trying not to change subject too much.....

in that pic under the fuse board is that a vent from the air con? if so makes even more sense why you advise to "leave the air con on". 2004 black Vogue TD6

dan_uk_1984 wrote:

The only time it would come out would be if the car was upside down. And frankly if the car was on it's roof I'd have bigger things to worry about

Dan

 Researching my first Range Rover purchase

First issue with having a second battery today - I didnt tell the mechanic I had a second battery, so when he disconnected the main battery to change my steering column the car stayed powered up as if by magic!

 

i am just contemplating a second battery in my 10MY tdv8.

i can fit an Exide 850A one in there so will prob use that and connect it as above to the rear fuse board.

Intent would be to fuse it (80A) and use a VSR connected up to the front end of the vehicle with a cut off in parrallel such as explained here: http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic19898....ry+fitting

barracuda816 wrote:

You can leave it there, or go one step further and fit a VSR.

If you have no pyrotechnics then this is very easy. You will need to separate the two cables going to the main battery (one goes to the starter and alt, the other powers the computers). leave the starter cable attached to the battery and link the cable for the computers to the vsr, connect the input of the vsr to the main battery. Then fit a bypass switch (like one of these http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Product.do?m...Aod838ArQ) in parrallel to the vsr.

This has the benifit that you are almost never going to get stuck. The aux battery will power the computers and everything you plug in to the rangey, at this time the batterys will be separate. Then when you crank the engine over the starter will be pulling the power from the main battery. Then when the engine is running the alt will charge the main battery, then when the voltage reached the required level the VSR will link the two batterys so the alt will charge the aux battery.

If the aux battery is flat then all you have to do is flick the bypass switch over and you the will essentially be returning the original configuration, that will allow you too start the car and flick the bypass back off to charge the aux back up.

Also if you dont know what a VSR is its a Voltage Sensitive Relat, you will need a dual voltage sensing one of atleast 100amp.

anyone tried the 2nd battery install with a VSR on a vehicle with pyro with the aim of running it as my post above? Cheers

James

Has anyone done the dual install in the boot as per this thread and still use the removable tow ball in the standard holder?

having the dual battery set up sorted in the td6 and guy has suggested a led battery meter will this do any advice welcomed cheers http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Marine-Boat-...1715913311

IanT599 wrote:

Has anyone done the dual install in the boot as per this thread and still use the removable tow ball in the standard holder?