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Jasdip

Member Since: 12 Mar 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 25

2011 Range Rover Supercharged 5.0 SC V8 Santorini Black

High Output Alternator Options

Does anyone know if there are any options other than qualitypowerauto.com for high output alternators for the 2011 Range Rover Supercharged?

13th Apr 2020 12:41am

Laurie915

Member Since: 11 Sep 2011
Location: Canberra
Posts: 72

2010 Range Rover Autobiography TDV8 Buckingham Blue

Hi
Have you tried these guys ?

https://canadianautoelectric.com/high-outp...nators.php

Laurie

13th Apr 2020 1:03am

Jasdip

Member Since: 12 Mar 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 25

They were one of the companies I sent a message to yesterday and am waiting for a reply. So far 1 company in Canada and 3 in the US have replied and said no (plus a bunch of local ones)

13th Apr 2020 2:39am

Jasdip

Member Since: 12 Mar 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 25

Laurie915 wrote:
Hi
Have you tried these guys ?

https://canadianautoelectric.com/high-outp...nators.php

Laurie

They said no, and a few more no's lol

16th Apr 2020 9:37am

Laurie915

Member Since: 11 Sep 2011
Location: Canberra
Posts: 72

This mob is in OZ if you want to try ?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Alternator...4422ac566d

Laurie

16th Apr 2020 10:03am

Jasdip

Member Since: 12 Mar 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 25

Laurie915 wrote:
This mob is in OZ if you want to try ?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Alternator...4422ac566d

Laurie

This one is for a Range Rover Sport and also only 150A like the factory one.

16th Apr 2020 10:28pm

Jasdip

Member Since: 12 Mar 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 25

MarkinCW5 wrote:
Big range with big amp output

https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_379/...-Rover.htm

I’ve seen this one. I was looking to see if there were any other alternatives to consider as well.

16th Apr 2020 10:30pm

RR P38

Member Since: 12 Oct 2013
Location: Sydney
Posts: 215

2003 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Java Black

MarkinCW5 wrote:
Big range with big amp output

https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_379/...-Rover.htm

Wow some of those units are making some serious current, to take advantage of this some serious rewiring would be needed under your hood.

16th Apr 2020 10:38pm

Jasdip

Member Since: 12 Mar 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 25

RR P38 wrote:
MarkinCW5 wrote:
Big range with big amp output

https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_379/...-Rover.htm

Wow some of those units are making some serious current, to take advantage of this some serious rewiring would be needed under your hood.

I'm guessing you mean upgrading the engine and battery grounds to 1/0 gauge (or doubling up) and same for alternator to battery?

16th Apr 2020 11:31pm

Jasdip

Member Since: 12 Mar 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 25

MarkinCW5 wrote:
I'm not to sure what the application would be, maybe secondary leisure battery or winch application but 300 amp is quite serious.

I'm looking to go with the 350A due to my electrical system being seriously strained by my sound system. When my bass hits, the truck actually jerks while accelerating. The voltage is dropping on the main battery from 14v+ to 12v and sometimes a bit less under heavy load.

I understand that the factory alternator is 150A and my amps are both max 100A each producing 1200W each. I've seen them draw up to 120A with a clamp meter. When the system is isolated (disconnected from main battery and running only on second battery) then everything is fine even at high volume. When it is connected through the main battery, it is dropping the voltage down for the whole truck. The whole thread about the issue is here:

https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threads/veh...ng.407221/

Also, I considered a second deep cycle battery with a split charger. However, I was advised that when the truck is started, it is the alternator supplying the power to the sound system anyways and that it wouldn't solve my problem. I only listen to the sound system with the truck started.

16th Apr 2020 11:44pm

Jasdip

Member Since: 12 Mar 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 25

I have a 1 farad capacitor installed and swapped it with another one for testing. It didn't make any difference with the swap or with it removed altogether. Although just a couple of days ago I noticed that the capacitors both didn't appear to be holding any charge (they're pretty old). I thought that the second battery would have likely acted as a large capacitor anyways and that didn't help either.

I know that I need probably at least 3 farads, but again, the battery should have helped. I considered getting one of those 20 or 50 farad ones too but I thought I might just be wasting more money.

Someone was thinking to try an Super Capacitor for their set up as well who had a similar issue, I looked into it but I thought if I'm spending hundreds of dollars then why not just hit the root of the problem instead. This is the one:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07T5CJNM...&psc=1

Last edited by Jasdip on 17th Apr 2020 12:12am. Edited 1 time in total

17th Apr 2020 12:08am

Jasdip

Member Since: 12 Mar 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 25

I've talked to various professionals over the past couple of years (on and off) and searched around on online forums while posting voltage and current test results, etc.

The audio professionals point back to checking grounds, replacing capacitor, add second battery, possibly replace the alternator. Land Rover says turn the music down because that draws too much power and voltage drops. Some people suggest the fuel pump or coils may be starved of power and therefore not injecting fuel properly (which I feel is the problem too); however, unless it is a bad part, the solution is still to fix the voltage drop. The voltage shouldn't be dropping to 12v or under anyways..

17th Apr 2020 12:18am

RR P38

Member Since: 12 Oct 2013
Location: Sydney
Posts: 215

Jasdip wrote:
I have a 1 farad capacitor installed and swapped it with another one for testing. It didn't make any difference with the swap or with it removed altogether. Although just a couple of days ago I noticed that the capacitors both didn't appear to be holding any charge (they're pretty old). I thought that the second battery would have likely acted as a large capacitor anyways and that didn't help either.

I know that I need probably at least 3 farads, but again, the battery should have helped. I considered getting one of those 20 or 50 farad ones too but I thought I might just be wasting more money.

Someone was thinking to try an Super Capacitor for their set up as well who had a similar issue, I looked into it but I thought if I'm spending hundreds of dollars then why not just hit the root of the problem instead. This is the one:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07T5CJNM...&psc=1

Looks like you have found what you need then, its either a super cap or its a large bank of batteries, shortest possible cable runs will help too.
With the load you are drawing its intermittent, im guessing.........I would say there is no way the Voltage regulator in the alternator can account quickly enough, its most likely going to cook it, super cap is the best bet by the looks of it.
My home stereo system has a dedicated 20amp 220volt feed direct from the switch board for similar reasons to your issue, it works.

17th Apr 2020 1:24am

Jasdip

Member Since: 12 Mar 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 25

The only issue is that when I first got the truck new, for several years everything was fine. Doesn't make sense for me to need to install more batteries and capacitors now to get back to what I was at before. The factory alternator was replaced a few years ago too and battery was replaced about 2 years ago.

I never did (or needed to) any voltage tests to see what the main battery was at for voltage under heavy load when the truck was new and everything was fine.

Putting in this alternator won't be a cheap "test" either!

17th Apr 2020 9:55pm

RR P38

Member Since: 12 Oct 2013
Location: Sydney
Posts: 215

Do you have a multimeter? If you dont just buy a cheap one...........Check your charge voltage and more importantly the battery. If you are concerned at spending too much money this may save you replacing something that you dont need too.
Not using diagnostics this way you are just fumbling about in the dark
A battery at 2 years old going on 3, is probably at 60-70% of its new CCA with the sort of load you are placing on the system.
Contrary to what 95% of us believe alternators shouldnt be used to recharge dead flat batteries, sure they can do it but it is very taxing, thats why we have battery chargers.
If your battery is cactus I would be looking at getting a Lithium battery if I was you they can serve higher demand loads and last much longer than lead acid or calcium batteries.
If as you say everything was running fine for a while chances are the battery is screwed or the alternator voltage regulator is on the way out or your super cap.......or possibly a combination of all 3
This is a good option for you as well;

17th Apr 2020 10:17pm

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