This has to be the end of a month of electronic problems I have been having , But.
When travelling round bends , only left ones , the yellow triangle anti slip light shows and I feel the car rumbling into/out of the corner like scrubbing.
I can put this down to two things , all brakes are quite hot , the rears shouldn't be , but can be to due to over work on the corners , and this may be down to camber angles on the rear quarters.
If it was one caliper, , that is easy and a normal heat on one is a bad caliper. I also have to correct a pull to the left ....sometimes more than normal.

tc sensor fault on that wheel or wheel bearing? Cheers

James

I had this similar happening with a loose driveshaft bolt which meant the ABS reluctor ring was moving out of range for the ABS sensor as the drive shaft moved "in" under load (note: not on an FFRR) .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

JST wrote:

tc sensor fault on that wheel or wheel bearing?

Could the wiring for the right hand ABS sensor be pulling and breaking the circuit when going round left handers, making the controller activate the ABS or traction control?

If your brakes are hot after a run, then it sounds like the ABS is working when it shouldn't (assuming you have not been braking hard of course).

Mike

That’s a good call , I’ll check that also.

Car on ramp now first thing that my friend has reminded me is I have and now notice is the Nearside rear is sitting at a slightly negative camber. Given that I have also noticed the rear near side tyre needing a bit of air now and again which took the very early signs of this problem away. To top that , the lower near side bush and pin had slight play picked on a advisory.
I cannot replicate this movement for myself .
So would this cause my problems of firstly steering to correct straight line travel and traction control to activate , given that it’s not only ABS traction trying to help but maybe more obvious steering to right to correct straight line .

I have now stripped down the rear on one side which looks like giving the most trouble and after spending hours trying to remove the first bush , it would not budge . Taking up the instruction leaflet to read again I assumed and was following the correct procedure. I have not done this before and the instructions are ambiguous, I was taking it out the wrong way, so now stripped the forcing thread supplied and stripped the thread which is fortunately replaceable .
I took the whole hub off removing the shaft from the diff as I couldn't punch it it , unfortunately I have messed up the end of the shaft and cant get a nut back on to it.
Oh woh is me ! Some w/e so far .
My question is is there a driveshaft tool extractor out there that will aid the removal so I can dress out the the end of the shaft. The gearbox end of the shaft is too big to sit over my press to push it out through the hub.Used bigger press , driveshaft out but bush housing oval , but threads cleaned up , going to try refitting old bush and heat to square up bush housing.

Used bigger press , driveshaft out but bush housing oval , but threads cleaned up , going to try refitting old bush and heat to square up bush housing.

New Bush fitted , and reassembly started.

If the car is pulling to one side, the alignment is out (after ruling out tyre pressures)

If the alignment is out, the Steering Angle Sensor will also be out of calibration

Resolve the alignment issues, recalibrate the SAS, job done

Thanks Mikey , I tried the steering thinking it would reset , but the underlying problem must be the swivel hub bushes and the track rod arm , so hope fully this will sort it. Its quite a job though.
I intend finding someone that can do the tracking alignment after this, so looking for that shortly, since all the bolts nuts are released it shouldn't be a problem.

Ny ideas on usefull tools to extract the half shafts . Ihad them all out with a sledge hammer last year , but that wasnt satisfactory they were so tight ,remove /install.

There is a special tool to extract and refit the shafts, I use an old copper hammer as a drift, and beat it with a big hammer

Big hammer used , slowly getting there , handbrake shoe fell apart , ordered new ones .
mOST OF THE BUSHES FITTED BAR ONE . Sorry caps.
Had to cut out tie rods both sides , so extra work here.
Hand brake cable fixture socket behind hub corroded, ordered new one!

Nearly there, Lr parts are an odd site online , good prices but when ordering to up here in Scotland the the postage comes as as a separate order , if you don't catch the extra email you end up losing out on losing postage dates , as I am!
So waiting for a brake cable.
One further question I need to ask I have fitted two new shock absorbers . (Brittpart) and the torque setting seems to be according to Rave a tad excessive . That being 260nm , one side ok but the other side the bottom part to hub has drawn in the Rubber inset and now I never reached the setting , would anyone or has anyone found that this setting is excessive or do I have a faulty part ?
Problem resolved , too much torque , read the setting wrongly!
Next prole is one of the new shockers is fault at the top. The rubber bush is not inserted correctly on the large retaining washer .Now in touch with company to replace.

Further to my last post on replacing rear bushes I have been for alignment , and because the bolt I replaced was the original one, the Garage could undo it so ordered a new one , replaced that and booked back in. The handling is seriously out , But I expecred that . Still when cornering, the HDC and Air suspension lights com on , so clearly work to do.