After having possible issues with either the BCM and the LCM, I disconnected the battery and removed both to allow them to dry out for a few days in case of damp, I have re fitted them and now another issue!! The drivers door switch pack doesn’t work, only the access button functions, none of the windows or mirror buttons work and I have to use the key to lock/unlock the drivers door, all other doors work on the central locking as they should and all other windows work from their buttons as they should. Have changed fuses to no avail and I don’t think it’s the switch pack as that was changed last year??

What's your car moddel, and peerhaps you could update it in your profile.

Have a look through this thread and the links about windows etc, my give a few pointers for starters.


https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic53815.html


Search is your friend. Cheers
Richard

(there are no such things as an ordinary FullFat, an ordinary cat or too many tools)
2011 TDV8 Vogue Santorini Black
Gap IIDBT

My car details are set in my profile but don’t seem to show in posts?? It’s 4.4 petrol vogue 2003

So have checked fuses, have checked wiring to switch pack, all seem ok and still no joy!!
Does anyone know Which module controls the switch pack? Would it be either the LCM or the BCM? As I have had both off the car as suspected possibly being damp, had them sat on a warm (not hot) radiator in the house for a week or so, is it possible they have somehow lost some memory of functions? is there any way of checking/re coding them? Can it be done with iid tool or Navcoder?

Need help as this is starting to really get to me now

BCM, have you checked Fuse 41, 5A?

Thanks, I’ll check fuse again, seems to be a lot of different fuse options from different web sources, may try disconnect BCM again see if it resets?

Checked fuse 41 but doesn’t say it’s for door switch pack, can’t seem to find anything related to drivers door or switch pack on my fuse chart?

The fuses that could affect the drivers for switch panel are F11,30A : F41, 5A : F53 30A.
Fuse 41 is in the 12V feed to the bcm which in turn feeds the drivers door switch panel. Being 5A it is easy to blow when you are fiddling about.
You could try checking the connecting plug to the bcm for corrosion.
Disconnecting it and reconnecting might do something.
You could of course disconnect the battery with everything in place and reconnect after 10 minutes and see what happens.

I’ll give those fuses another check tomorrow and have another look at the BCM and give the wires a wiggle and try the battery again, I did disconnect it for a while yesterday but it didn’t make any difference, but after a wiggle of cables it might
Thanks 👍🏻

Update:....
Well after a few days head scratching and trawling the internet and this site, the door pack is working again, solution...disconnect battery again(probably for about the tenth time ) remove BCM and leave for an hour or so, checked connections for corrosion etc but none was obvious so a bit of a wiggle when re fitting, re connect the battery and hey presto! all seems well! just the original air suspension inactive and HDC not working, but I can live with that as I suspect a faulty sensor as it’s been on and off for a while
Thanks to everyone for your help and advice
Just got to try and diagnose the suspension/HDC fault now

I presume after your battery disconnect you ran the steering wheel from full lock to full lock with the ignition on to reset the steering sensor and clear the air suspension inactive message.

Yep

Need to get it plugged in, I have an icar gizmo but not sure what or where I’m looking for results tbh,

Just a thought.
The air suspension and hdc warnings can come up due to low voltage at some point, particularly the lower voltage experienced when starting the car.
How's the state of your battery and alternator charging voltage?

Oddly I do have alternator issues... the battery light is constantly on but the readings taken at the battery suggest it is charging ok, it always starts and has never gone flat in the 2 or so years it’s been like it? I have another alternator to fit but as it seems quite a fiddle have never gotten round to it....would a fault code reader tell me if that was the problem? I have toyed with getting an iid tool but haven’t got round to getting one yet, I do however have the icar code reader thing, but again not really sure what or how to check codes

A voltmeter connected to the battery would be useful, even a plug in unit plugged into a cigar/accessory socket.
Not totally accurate but would indicate battery voltage when engine off and alternator voltage when running.
Alternator charge light on all the time is not good, don't quite understand how it's been like that for 2 years without issues.