4.2 SC

Been on the road for a couple of hours and then opened it up. Went up to around 4 thou, faltered and the engine light came on. Stopped and plugged in the iid and apart from some minor faults (DVD etc) there was no engine fault. Cleared all anyway - engine light out but still no power. Limped home (a couple of miles) and rechecked iid and still no engine fault.

Any ideas gratefully received.

If you're nr Plymouth then Mark Kelly 4x4  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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I was yesterday but West Somerset today - thanks

Search Supercharger Coolant Pump on here and there's a wealth of info for you. 2017 5.0 Autobiography Supercharged
2005 Merc SL350
2005 Disco HSE 2.7 oil burner

Many thanks - perusing now. . . Range Rover 4.2 SC
2 Range Rover Classics - one from new but both rusty now.
Rover 3.5 Coupe had since new.
Subaru Legacy 3.0.
BMW K1200RS.

I just changed mine as the restricted performance would bing cut power for 2 seconds and was fine again caught it early - you can get the Bosch pumps on amazon prime for under £100 fairly easy diy as long as you have light and good pliers Current stable:
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

Many thanks, have ordered a new pump and oil for the SC. Could you kindly give me an outline as how you changed your pump please? Range Rover 4.2 SC
2 Range Rover Classics - one from new but both rusty now.
Rover 3.5 Coupe had since new.
Subaru Legacy 3.0.
BMW K1200RS.

Of course in return when you do the oil tell me how much of the pita it is 😂 my charger bearings rattle when I had a misfire when it misfired I could hear it rattle now that seems to be mainly cured it’s stopped so thinking of doing oil to prserve it if not too much damage is done...

Anyway depending how flexible you are you can do it by unscrewing the bolt holding the washer fluid filler then dropping that as far right as possible.
Lift off the power steering responsive keep it mainly upright and dump as far right as possible.
Remove the front grill.

My personal tip as I spent an hour before I did this... out a glove on and wipe grease all around the two coolant pipes you have to remove.
Then with good plier squeeze the metal clips and lift as high as possible (they should glide on the grease otherwise they will dig in)

Pull them of and try to plug them or keep them facing up to save coolant.

Then there is a vertical slot where the grill was on the right. Get an 8mm socket and small ratchet in there and undo the bolt that holds the clamp around the pump to the side of the rad. Unfortunately the pump sits in a groove so you have to take it all the way out. The just lift it out.

Fitting it in reverse however I file the top of the pump with coolant first to make sure it was dry as little as possible. Also when you bleed it there is a bleed screw on top of the pipe at the top Of the pump take that out too and make sure it runs with no bubbles before putting in.


That ok for you? Current stable:
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

That's super comprehensive, many thanks.
This the oil I've ordered for the supercharger: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161492089065 Range Rover 4.2 SC
2 Range Rover Classics - one from new but both rusty now.
Rover 3.5 Coupe had since new.
Subaru Legacy 3.0.
BMW K1200RS.

Hi Gibbs how did you get on? Current stable:
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

Hi,

Not too bad thanks.
The pump arrived yesterday so proceeded carry out your excellent instructions but. . . .
The new pump didn't come with a mounting bracket so I decided to remove the old one - big mistake!
The bolt sheared. So spent this afternoon removing the remainder of the clip. Ordered some M5 replacement clips so the pump is secured at the moment with a stainless steel cable tie. Ran the engine up and success. I will refit the air filter etc tomorrow and give it a run.

BTW an added complication is the the car is fitted with a bull bar.

TTFN Range Rover 4.2 SC
2 Range Rover Classics - one from new but both rusty now.
Rover 3.5 Coupe had since new.
Subaru Legacy 3.0.
BMW K1200RS.

Ouch!

My bracket Bolt was stiff but I just spayed the threads with some brunox and wound them back and forth until out. Current stable:
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

Think I must have been suckered into a false sense of well being as all the bolts etc on the SC have always come off without issue and I was only using a 1/4 inch drive. . . Range Rover 4.2 SC
2 Range Rover Classics - one from new but both rusty now.
Rover 3.5 Coupe had since new.
Subaru Legacy 3.0.
BMW K1200RS.

I imagine it spilt coolant over the years eating away at it and salt from the roads getting to it hasn’t helped Current stable:
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

Put it all together and now 'Reduced etc'. Engine is at full temperature (iid 93deg) but the pipes to and from the pump are cold. Squeezing the pipes produces a reaction at the coolant filler but listening to the pump it sounds like it's cavitating. I've simply reconnected the electric cable as per original ie + to + should it be - to +?
Any other ideas gratefully received. Range Rover 4.2 SC
2 Range Rover Classics - one from new but both rusty now.
Rover 3.5 Coupe had since new.
Subaru Legacy 3.0.
BMW K1200RS.