Hi All,
There have been numerous posts on how-to's etc about the rust around the rear wheelarches on some models.
I got under mine to suss it all out over the last two nights (MY2006) and expected the worst. Turns out I've been exceptionally lucky under all of the plastics and have NO rust perferations at all. There was however the slightest bit of surface rust on the lips of the foreward part of the arches that was only going to get worse. So, one bare metal rub down, rust eating primer (Finnegan's hammerite no1), a few coats of smoothrite, (And when it's cured I'll be putting on stone chip protector and underseal over the top too.) and the world is back in order.

Moral of the story? -Get on on in there and check. In my case a stitch in time really will save loads. The cars are just not adequately protected in that area. Over the next couple of weeks the plastics are all coming off for a similar treatment underneath, and I'll be squirting Waxoyl in every available hole and crevice. -At the least a bloody good underseal. If you've got a good one, you'll have to stay on top of it to keep it that way.......

Si.

nice advice

Had similar - and did similar to you...

What's the best way to get Waxoyl into that seam from the inside ?

. Cheers, Greg
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2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

Haven't worked that out yet, but I suspect possibly from inside the vehicle as its where the "wing" is spot welded to the inner wheelarch and then down to the sill. There's a few possible grommets in there -particulalrly at the lowest most rust prone bit, so I'm going to try there. The drain channels for the sunroof also exit via a rubber grommet that gives you another option. The plastic wheel arches have to come out, and the fixtures under the sills have to come out. Then you can just yank the plastic oversills off towards the back as they are on press-stud fittings. There's a couple of noddy vids on youtube that gave me some pointers.

Good luck!

Si.

We could do with a complete guide to this on here i.e. how to strip down, inspect, treat and replace all trims and details of any trim clips that might need purchasing for the refit... Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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I've just treated mine. For the lips I've used the same rubber section trim that goes on the lip of rear wing section of the arch. I filled them with Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 cavity wax, then, having liberally sprayed the actual lip of the arch on both sides, put the trim in place. It fits perfectly and looks like how LR should have done it themselves (except they don't fill them with cavity wax, I put new trims on the rear wing arch lip as well, treated the same way). We'll see if that works long term. Drives:
2010 FFRR TdV8 Vogue - Stornoway Grey
2010 FFRR TdV8 Vogue SE - Zermatt Silver
1998 BMW E36 M3 GTII

Got any pictures? Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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Sorry, not I haven't, but it looks exactly like the bit of rear arch lip that's on the actual rear wing and it buts up to the seal on the door perfectly. Drives:
2010 FFRR TdV8 Vogue - Stornoway Grey
2010 FFRR TdV8 Vogue SE - Zermatt Silver
1998 BMW E36 M3 GTII

Can you take some and post them on here?  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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