Hi!

The rear suspension is eating tires as the outer edge of my right rear tire is badly worn. I guess technically it's excessive positive camber - but could this really just be misalignment? The suspension seems firm otherwise, but the degree of wear is making me suspect something is defect.

Was planning on getting a four wheel realignment, but thought I'd check in with the experts first.

Anyone with experience with similar issues that could point to potential culprits?

Could be just alignment, but more likely a worn out upper or lower or both hub joints, or the toe arm.

First port of call would be an MOT mechanic who knows how to test. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

My money is on the wheel having too much toe-in, ie toe arm ball joint worn or securing cam bolt has moved.

Thanks for he input.

I also think toe-settings is a good bet, but how is this set? I didn't find much info on the actual adjustment procedure in the RAVE material, but judging by this picture I guess the bushing end of the "tie rod" (seems strange for a non-steer axle) has an offset (eccentric?) bolt?

Click image to enlarge

Just replace the whole lot. What I did. New rod, bolts etc etc
www.advancedfactors.co.uk did the lot for a reasonable price
...and then get it 4 wheel aligned set in Tight Tolernace Mode  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

Hmm, does this look right (keep in mind suspension is at full drop)?

Click image to enlarge

The rubber is shot to pieces on the right (in your photo) but the only way to tell is to get the weight off it and see if it wiggles (easily...) if it does, replace.

As said above, probably time to replace the lot on both sides if they are all the same age .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

That looks proper  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

Looks like the wishbone is bent due to the corosion  2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE
1993 Discovery 1 3.5 V8i

I agree it does not look pretty - but it's primarily surface rust and the A-arm has that kink built-in already, right?

I was expecting the horrible tire wear to be newly replaced parts and lack of alignment, but the state of affairs prompted me to order up a set of new upper bushings and the "tie-rod" links.

Can anyone confirm bolt/nut size on the tie-rod/tie control arm? It's hard to tell for sure with the corrosion and what not, but the best fit seems like 18mm and 20mm, but it's loose enough to where I think it could be imperial (referring to the bushing side)? Is the nut toward the front of the car welded/fixed, or is it an independent through bolt/nut?

Also, any hints as to how to lock in place the bolt on the tie-rod end while unscrewing the bolt? I think the bolt shaft is supposed to accept a 10mm socket (?) for clamp-down, but mine is busted and turning inside the socket.

Definitely all metric. 18 & 20 mm sounds right from when I did ours.
No welded nuts - just very rusty - lol. The nut end of the bolt has a "cam washer" to adjust the toe-in.

The hub end has a 10mm hex as you say - for holding the joint thread while undoing the nut.
I didn't manage to get a socket onto for space reasons, but I did get a short 10mm ring spanner on it.
10mm 6 pointed ring ( rather than 12 point) would be better to avoid the risk of "rounding off" of the hexagon on the joint thread. The nut was very tight on the threads.
If your hexagon is broken / damaged, can you get a small disc cutter ( eg dremel or similar) or grinder in to cut the nut off or thread off? Paul,
2001 Discovery 2 TD5, 211,000 miles & climbing
2006 FFRR TDV8 Vogue 145,000 miles & climbing
Member of Midland (Land) Rover Owners Club, www.mroc.co.uk

I had to grid/hacksaw my 10mm nut off the toe arm, whole thing just going round and round. OK if replacing the whole thing.

Why they don't put:

1. A decent sized nut on the end
2. Large spanner slots on the joint (like with the drop links on the front) .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999