fullfatrr.com - View topic - Experimental fix for heated/cooled seat unit. *FAILED*

Advertise on fullfatrr.com »

Forum · Gallery · Wiki · Shop · Sponsors

Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In

Home > Technical (L322) > Experimental fix for heated/cooled seat unit. *FAILED*

Page 1 of 2

Print this entire topic ·

GGDR

Member Since: 26 Nov 2016
Location: London
Posts: 3542

2011 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Stornoway Grey

Experimental fix for heated/cooled seat unit. *FAILED*

Experimental fix for heated/cooled seat unit

If your heated cooled seat is not working you'll need a new unit. The Peltier part of the unit is not repairable, a few of us on the forum have tried.

Problem is a complete replacement unit from LR is not cheap, around £220-£240 a pop.

This is relates to my 2011 VSE with heated/cooled seats. Heat-only seats are different, this guide doesn't apply to heat-only seat which use a pad. I think (but not sure) this guide applies to 2009-2012 heated/cooled seats

A note on ducting: whether seat base or back upright, you may have ducting damage. This will need repairing and you can try to see if your unit will work after repairing ducting. If it doesn't, it means the Peltier is fried. At the bottom of this post is a link to a long thread covering ducting repairs and getting to the units. This post is just for repairing, specifically replacing the Peltier part within the heat/ cool unit.

I was determined to find another place to buy these things and discovered that a Ford Mustang Heat/Cool unit seems extremity similar to a LR one.

So I ordered one from the US and fitted it. So far been a success.

Here’s what to do:

Firstly:

Mustang unit details:
The unit was bought from mpsautosalvage@gmail.com off ebay.
Item name: OEM RH RIGHT PASSENGER SIDE TEMPERATURE CONTROLLED SEAT BLOWER MOTOR 2010-16 MKT
That particular listing has ended but you can find them around. Ford Part Number: AE9Z-19N550-B
Cost $60USD = £48 at the time. Shipping and import duties £27.82 so that's £75.82.

Comparing the LR and the Mustang units:
LR Left and Mustang Right:

There are seven cables in total.

Four go to the Peltier unit. slight difference between LR and the Mustang:

LR has
YELLOW GREEN GREEN BLUE
Mustang has
YELLOW GREY GRREN BLUE

(bit hard to see in the above photo)

Mounting points:
The screw mount arms are in different positions so we won't use the Mustang fan unit. You can test your fan and use that if it tests ok.

What we are going to do is just change the Peltier unit and put that into your LR unit.

Ok let's go:

Remove the Peltier (heater/cooler) from the LR unit Just snip off the cable ties and prise out.

So here is the Mustang Peltier in the LR unit

Click image to enlarge

The duct fittings are exactly the same, to fit the Mustang Peltier, a simple push fit and a cable tie around the outside. Easy.

Cabling:

We are only dealing with the four cables that go into the Peltier:

IDENTIFY AND MARK:
- Identify the two green cables.
- Mark them YELLOW GREEN1 GREEN2 BLUE
- You need to do this as the Mustang is different and you need to be 100% sure before you snip.
- Trace and check which green goes into the peltier and is next to YELLOW.
- Check again. It's not easy to see. Be 100% sure.
- Mark the one next to yellow on the LR Peltier as GREEN1
- Do this by making two masking tape flags and wrap two around GREEN1 leaving a small gap between.
- Now mark the other GREEN as GREEN2 the same way . Check again that GREEN2 goes to the terminal next to BLUE
- The gap between the flags is where you will cut. This way, once cut, everything is still identifiable.

With four masking tape flags (two on each GREEN cable) in place you can now...:

CUT AND SPLICE:
- Snip all four cables connecting the peltier.
- The GREENS you will snip in between each masking tape flag
- Discard the LR Peltier and get the Mustang one.
- Snip all four cables on the Mustang unit (you don't need to mark these).
- Splice and solder the corresponding Mustang unit cables onto the LR cables.
LR:
YELLOW GREEN1 GREEN2 BLUE
Mustang:
YELLOW GREY GREEN BLUE
- Because you've traced and checked and rechecked, you'll know that GREEN1 connects to GREY on the replacement Peltier
- Don't forget to slip heat shrink over the cables before you splice and solder
- Refit and test.

Notes:
- Check the fan first by running a bit of 12v power into the BLACK and PURPLE cables.
- My fan cut out after about a minute. But that was the unit shutting itself down because the Peltier was gone. Don't think a fan that shuts down after a minute means the fan is no good.
- if for any reason your fan is gone you can definitely use the Mustang fan, it will just need more wires soldered (easy as the wires are same same) and moiunting the fan back under the seat will need a bit of fettling

Add cable ties, keep it all neat and re-fit into the seat.

BOOM you've repaired a £240 unit for £78

The repaired unit is connected, just sitting on the floor. for a quick test prior to refitting. My infrared temperature meter is pointed into the heater end. Notice the red laser dot pointing into the peltier. Little furnace that! 58 degrees. Pretty pleased with the reading at 58 degrees! Toasty!

The pelters are so small, pumping out all that heat, any blockage or restriction and I can see why these things overheat.

You might be able to keep shopping around and get a better deal. I think any Ford unit may work. As far as I know they are fitted to Lincolns, F150 trucks and Mustangs. There maybe others. The Peltier units, although a touch different, are made by the same people, it's got the same stickers.

This version of the write up removes some redundant steps and is based on my learning curve version of this tale here:
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic44946-135.html

Any questions, please shout.

.
EDIT: just been running this for a couple of days on my short commute to work. It's tripped out once. Seems to run ok on heat setting #2 but on #3 it tripped out. Later ran on #3 setting ok. Was super toasty tonight. Seems like a bug to find. Still investigating.... Cheers, Greg
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

Last edited by GGDR on 2nd Dec 2020 10:42pm. Edited 14 times in total

30th Dec 2018 10:26pm

Bushy30

Member Since: 03 Jun 2018
Location: Oxfordshire
Posts: 1098

2011 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Galway Green

Current: 2011 FFRR Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8
Previous: -
2004 FFRR Vogue 4.4 V8 with LPG
1997 P38 4.0 SE with LPG
1997 P38 4.6 Vogue with LPG

30th Dec 2018 11:30pm

JST

Member Since: 12 Dec 2013
Location: Somerset
Posts: 489

2012 Range Rover Westminster 4.4 V8 Stornoway Grey

Good find, Thank you. Cheers

James

31st Dec 2018 8:53am

stan
Site Moderator

Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: a moderate moderated moderator moderating moderately in moderation
Posts: 35267

wiki'fied greg , thank you...

edit...taken out of the wiki as per request...

Last edited by stan on 18th Jan 2019 1:47pm. Edited 1 time in total

31st Dec 2018 9:51am

paulbrown22

Member Since: 23 Dec 2017
Location: London/Poole
Posts: 352

2011 Range Rover Supercharged 5.0 SC V8 Stornoway Grey

Very nice work - well done Greg! I'm sure you're happy now, and just in time for winter too .

31st Dec 2018 10:08am

gg2201

Member Since: 21 Oct 2013
Location: Callington
Posts: 158

2011 Range Rover Autobiography TDV8 Santorini Black

Jaguar XF and XJ ones are similar to the LR ones and use the same connectors but new ones are similarly priced to LR. Great write up 2011 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography

2nd Jan 2019 1:32pm

GGDR

Member Since: 26 Nov 2016
Location: London
Posts: 3542

Sadly I'm declaring this not working.

It seemed so promising at the beginning, pumped out heat when I first connected it.

The next week it worked 3 of 4 times, sometimes it would shut off but would come back on - and heat up - if I switched off the ignition then started back up straight way. Then it's behaviour seemed to decline - it would then take me switching off and locking, unlocking the car and it would work...

This week it's just shutting down after 15-20 secs no matter what I do.

So back to the drawing board

These pelters are like the black arts. And there are no experts / repair people it seems.

I'll have a think, the peltier itself fitted perfectly into the duct but was a little different physically.

Two simple choices for me - either another peltier from another Ford - or simply stump up £240 for a genuine one.

I really wanted to fix it on principle - it think LR are taking the p**s on parts prices. But it might be time to admit defeat...

I've even changed the title to "experiment" and Stan will take it off wiki. A tough blow.

. Cheers, Greg
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

Last edited by GGDR on 15th Jul 2020 7:16pm. Edited 3 times in total

18th Jan 2019 9:49am

supershuttle

Member Since: 20 Mar 2011
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 3779

2013 Range Rover Autobiography SDV8 Luxor

I bought the original part from Dan a while back, not fitted it yet, but on these cold days cold leather on me bum is uncomfortable. Now if only I could remember the "safe place" I put it I'll get on with it. Geoff

18th Jan 2019 1:42pm

Pal

Member Since: 06 Jan 2020
Location: Budapest
Posts: 26

2010 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Galway Green

Hi, I am new to the group and L322 in general. Im am struggling the same issue described above. Why not to take a unit apart and look for the matching peltier element to replace? You mention some have tried it before, do you know why the have failed?
Can you maybe tell me the Gentherm part numbers for the back and bottom units?

6th Jan 2020 1:31pm

Mark T Boldry

Member Since: 08 Feb 2019
Location: York
Posts: 29

My drivers seat heat has failed in the last few days... (2012 L322 TDV8 Westminster)

Before I dig deeply into this, I guess I should look at fuses..

Is this a common problem..?

9th Jan 2020 7:43pm

GGDR

Member Since: 26 Nov 2016
Location: London
Posts: 3542

Have a look at this main thread on the seats Mark:
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic44946.html

It's unlikely to be a fused. If your back is not working it may be recoverable if your have (and repair) cracked ducting. However in most cases you need a new unit.

. Cheers, Greg
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

9th Jan 2020 10:38pm

GGDR

Member Since: 26 Nov 2016
Location: London
Posts: 3542

Pal - I did try but could not find anywhere that sells the unit. It's marked Amerigon but I spoke to somebody there and they said speak to Land Rover.

As above, read through https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic44946.html
and although long, there are quite a few nuggets of information.

If you can find a part that will successfully repair these units you'll be a popular bloke.

. Cheers, Greg
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

9th Jan 2020 10:44pm

JNC

Member Since: 23 Feb 2020
Location: UK
Posts: 292

2011 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Nara Bronze

I've been looking into this recently. Came across this...

https://www.f150forum.com/f38/seat-heater-...67/index4/

That unit had a revised filter design. Might look at sourcing that type.

2nd Dec 2020 10:11pm

OO__OO

Member Since: 15 May 2014
Location: Manchester
Posts: 18

2011 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Baltic Blue

Peltier Unit

My drivers heated/cooled seat has not worked since I bought my RR 21 months ago. It's a 2011 TDV8 4.4 Vogue SE.
Usual symptom fan came on for a few seconds then went off.
After much looking here & "elsewhere" I decided to take a chance on this:-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Peltier-element...SwFg9fGquv

It arrived early, before first delivery date & I fitted it today. It is a perfect fit unlike some that have been mentioned.
It works perfectly after clearing all fault codes. Though I guess time will tell how long it lasts. It is made in China as is the original.
My part No. was L0084982 which is not listed as comparable but it works fine. It cost $75 US £56, (made an offer of $70 & agreed $75).
It's nice to have a warm bum in the winter.
Hope this is of help to someone. Austin Champ - First car I owned in 1967 ETE167F
Willys Jeep
Lightweight L/R I converted to Ford 3.0 V6
Classic RR 2 door with 200TDi - written off!
Classic RR 4 door V8 - changed to 200TDi from above
Lada Niva - Little off-road toy
Disco 300 TDi Auto - Thirsty
Classic RR Overfinch 5.7 - Very thirsty
Disco II TD5 with off road kit
Grand Cherokee 4.0
2002 L322 4.4 V8 on LPG
2011 L322 4.4TDV8 SE
1943 Ford GPW

19th Dec 2020 9:09pm

Simran0211

Member Since: 10 Jun 2016
Location: Coventry
Posts: 299

2011 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 V8 Santorini Black

Is it still working

12th Jan 2021 4:57am

Page 1 of 2

All times are GMT

Jump to

< Previous Topic | Next Topic >

Posting Rules

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum