Hi all hope someone can help. Changed my front upper conrol arm bushes which went well with a 12 tonne press. The easy part should have been reconnecting and tightening the ball joints, however, on the offisde one the allen key that holds the ball joint steady slipped and now i have no purchase to hold it and the ball joint spins so i can't tighten the nut. I have ordered a new ball joint to fit but having read some posts it looks like a real pig of a job to get it out. Does anyone have any ideas how i can get the ball joint to stop spinning so i can tighten it up? Ive tried jacking up the arm but that gives more or a rotational force and doesnt really force the joint tapper in so im a bit stuck. Thanks for any help Current 2007 TDV8 Vogue Buckingham Blue

You have suggested the only fix I know of, which is to put some weight on the joint to force the pin up into the joint so that it holds. Surprised you can't get it to purchase with a jack on it... .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Thanks joe90. I think the problem is that the pin goes down on his ball joint rather than the lower arm which goes up so there isn't enough to force it down. I've done it on ramps with the weight on the wheels too hoping the taper would be compressed in but no joy there. Might try a big pry bar to force the arm up to see if I can get it to hold tight. If not its out with the big chisels and hammers and try smash the joint out and no doubt round the torx heads too 😂 Current 2007 TDV8 Vogue Buckingham Blue

Try a driving a Torx or spline bit driver into the hex socket. Sometimes the extra points find just enough grip for the nut to wind on.

Obviously you have given the tapers a really good clean before trying to find things. If all is good and clean sometimes spinning an ordinary, non locking, nut on first will pull the taper up tight enough to hold so it stays there whilst you change over to the proper nut.

The desperate "nothing to loose option is to put some JBWeld, metal loaded filler or epoxy in the hex socket and shove a short length of allen key in so it ooses out round the side of the key giving firm contact. About 50 % success rate methinks. Probably work better with a torx or spline bit but I've never had enough of those about the place to sacrifice one.

Clive

Thanks Clive I've tried hammering various bits in the hole to no avail and think I just made it worse!

Like the idea about a non locking nut but the only problem is the origin nut is mostly on so now I can't get it tight or loosen it either as it spins both ways! Current 2007 TDV8 Vogue Buckingham Blue

I haven't replaced any ball joints on a Range Rover, but plenty on other cars.

First option would be to use the jack and the weight of the car to stop the taper spinning.

Another option is to use a ball joint splitter in reverse to tighten the joint into the arm, eg. put the split part of the splitter on the arm and tighten the screw at the bottom of the ball joint forcing the two parts together.

Maybe even a G clamp to force the parts together?

Mike

Try using a plain nut on the ball joint rather than prevailing torque / nyloc.
Hopefully you can tighten it up & pull the tapers in tight then remove the plain nut & swop for prevailing torque. Paul,
2001 Discovery 2 TD5, 211,000 miles & climbing
2006 FFRR TDV8 Vogue 145,000 miles & climbing
Member of Midland (Land) Rover Owners Club, www.mroc.co.uk

A bit of Loctite on the taper? Previously......
Series 1 80, Series 3 88, Turbo 90, 300tdi 90, 110's with 200, 300, TD5
TD5 Disco, Disco 3, 200Tdi Disco - probably the best vehicle Landrover ever made,
Now 3x FFRR, some would say I should have learned by now......

If your prepared to sacrifice the jammed nut then perhaps one of these will split the nut. I have a set of these and have used them to remove a jammed nut on another car quite easily.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht246-nut-splitter-set/
Good Luck

Thanks all for the suggestions. Going to try a large pry bar to try and wedge the arm up into the taper or see if there is another way to get a jack in there with some pressure. If not ive got the new one delivered now and it feels a lot stiffer than the one on there so may just replace it and have done. There always seems to be one bolt that causes an issue. Current 2007 TDV8 Vogue Buckingham Blue

Change the baljoint as it’s probably knackered by now anyways...

If you can get a bit of friction between the arm and the taper with the jacking and/or the weight of the car then try tightening the nut with an impact wrench if you have one.
I have found this works for me in the past. 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE
1993 Discovery 1 3.5 V8i

any way you could get a ratchet strap over the ball joint and round the lower arm or hub to hold the taper in? 56 TDV8 Vogue SE
9 Freelanders, 2x 2002 TD4ES, 2001 TD4, 2002 1.8GS, 2000 XEDI, 2x 2000 1.8ES, 2004 1.8 & 2000 1.8 GS (rolled)
91 Lotus Carlton (sold)
90 Lotus Elan (BRG)

Thanks everyone for the suggetions. Thought id have a go at getting it tight before replacing as it still seemed fine. Got the wheel off and managed to get a jack as close to the nut as possible and jacked it up, knocked the arm up a bit more with a lump hammer then jacked as far as it would go. This did the job and could tighten the nut then no problem so for the time being all is good again. May well change both when i have more time but seems ok with just the new bushes in. Current 2007 TDV8 Vogue Buckingham Blue