There is a thread on here that I added to that has a lot of info regarding the suspension arms and the tricky bottom ball joint that is effectively rust welded into the hub, I’m away but I’ll try and find it using my phone.
I wish I had my little portable oxy mapp torch when I did it but it is doable without although I still used a little butane torch.

Wrong forum, but then I send a lot of people over here from over there, these are my efforts -

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/cv-...nt.268153/

Did mine and had to use a lot of heat to get it to shift ended up melting a hole in driveshaft gaiter even with a shield in between .On retrospect I should have folded gaiter back out of the way and saved myself a mornings work replacing it .Lots of heat and brute force required

when you replaced the gaitor you must have pushed the CV centre back through the hub and then pulled it back into the hub after replacing the gaitor. did you use LR tools for this or were those stages easy?

Knock shaft through hub being careful not to flange end of .Used neoprene gaitor and cone that part was easy but messy .Shaft can be a bit tight to get through big hammer required as with refit big socket over end of shaft and a bit of swearing.thats why I would undo gaitor and fold back out of the way before heating wrap an old wet towel around cv joint and apply plenty heat and it will go good luck

Oh and tools used were not lr tools .a large copper alloy drift around the size of the shaft to knock it through a large socket that sits on inner hole of hub and a heavy hammer to refit

that link provided above by chicken is helpful. it suggests that if the hub is removed, upon refitting, the CV splined shaft will poke sufficiently through the hub to allow the nut to go on and pull it the rest of the way through.

I'm half way through making a 'special tool' for this purpose out of a hub nut turned down in the lathe to fit through the splined bore in the hub (the protruding end of the hub nut that you peen over to lock it is a smaller diameter than the hub's splined bore)

that hub nut is welded to a length of studding which then pokes through a plate which mounts across the spigot on the hub and onto which a nut tightens. its possible that LR have copied my design because thiers looks very similar

thanks for those comments rik I'm getting enthusiastic again just waiitng for a sunny warm day

Sunny warm day

Shaft will not protrude far enough for nut to get a grip without a fair bit of hammering clean out inside of hub and apply a bit of release oil being careful not to damage abs sensor in hub when cleaning make sure hub nut is fully on before trying to tighten or you will damage threads .Big bar required to retighten

Maybe because i had new cv joints going back in but i cleaned everything and just pushed it back through enough to get the nut to start on it.
I think this photo is the old one on it's way out.