Hi FG

Sorry for the delay in answering, my internet/phone line has been down and the technician has only now repaired it.

The area around the door lock button is a bit fiddly. When removing ours it took a gentle but firm persuasion to release and, if I remember, the window down helped, giving a little more wiggle room. Just take extra care and you could try removing the lower window trim.

In my earlier post I said five screws, I think on looking just now that is wrong, there are four, as you say. Two in the lower door pocket cover, one in behind the door opening handle and, I'm sure you have, BUT on the card below the lock button is a small removable oval and behind this is a screw. The oval prises out from either end with a small screwdriver or plastic strip. As I said you probably have removed it, but I can't see from here

In my picture earlier in the thread, there is an arrow pointing to a clip in the middle of the card, but IIRC this is reachable when the card is loose.


Let us know how you get on.

Richard Cheers
Richard

(there are no such things as an ordinary FullFat, an ordinary cat or too many tools)
2011 TDV8 Vogue Santorini Black
Gap IIDBT

Got it finished!! Thanks to Rjff and everyone else! Came out perfect except blood pressure spiked a bit when trying to balance door card on foot stool while I reconnected the the door cable rod from door to card and then trying to get the top of the door card to slide into the grooves!! One thing I would recommend is getting all new yellow fasteners as some get crunched taking there panel off. A lot of patience is required.

and happy it worked.


+1 on the yellow fasteners, I unloaded some from the fitters van while he was doing the glass replacement  Cheers
Richard

(there are no such things as an ordinary FullFat, an ordinary cat or too many tools)
2011 TDV8 Vogue Santorini Black
Gap IIDBT

Unnecessary quote removed
Know what you mean re door handle cable, I found if you locate and click in the yellow fixings and then with window down if you push the top of the door card it will just click in to place no need to try guiding on to the top clips.

Thanks!
yes, I realized that as well, after I got it in. If I ever have to do the other side I'm ready!

Mike

Sorry to bump an old topic up but I wanted to keep all this great information in the same thread for future search results!

I just started hearing what sounds like a loose metal rattle from inside my 2007's driver's side (LHD) door each time I slam the door shut. I suspect it's probably just the window track that's loose, so I went ahead and attempted to remove my door card a few minutes ago.

The process was pretty much as outlined in PowerfulUK's video except that instead of a 10mm bolt behind the Land Rover oval, I had a Torx T25 screw. The other 3 screws were Torx T15 as per the video.

In any case, lo and behold, that interior door panel is solidly clipped in there! I even used a chisel for leverage to try to break it loose but it wouldn't budge at all. The edge of the panel would simply flex a little. Do I need to pry it even harder? Any other tips to remove this door card?

I can already see myself breaking every single yellow tab to get the door panel off!  2010 RR SC
2007 RR SC

Yes, you can do it with a scredriver as shown in the video, but the best thing to do would be to get hold of some trim removal tools, they are made to do the job.

This sort of thing, sure to be available in Canada.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/car-trim-removal-...oval%20kit

or if you have the facilities, make up something that applies pressure to both sides of the clip. That helps prevent the clip from being forced to one side and jamming harder, if you see what I mean.

Other tip, see if you can get hold a several clips as a precauioin and to see how they fit. If I have a moment I'll post up a pic of the clip. Cheers
Richard

(there are no such things as an ordinary FullFat, an ordinary cat or too many tools)
2011 TDV8 Vogue Santorini Black
Gap IIDBT

Pics as said. These are from our 2011TDV8, but don't see much difference likely

The pointy end goes into the door card





 Cheers
Richard

(there are no such things as an ordinary FullFat, an ordinary cat or too many tools)
2011 TDV8 Vogue Santorini Black
Gap IIDBT

Thank you for the feedback, rjff!

For the minor cost of a trim removal kit, I think I may just buy a set in order to make this process smoother. I can't stress again just how tight that door card was held in place.

I've removed interior door cards on numerous vehicles in my lifetime but have never had one this stubborn before!

Looking at the photos of those yellow fasteners, they really don't look like they should be that rigidly locked in place (that tapered retention looks like it should flex and give way fairly easily) but I digress. I will make another attempt shortly.  2010 RR SC
2007 RR SC

Looking back on the fitter replacing our side window, ISTR that he did use quite a bit of force to remove some of the clips, and he did have to replace a couple. If he does this for a living and breaks a few, what chance do we poor mortals have?

Let us know how you get on. Cheers
Richard

(there are no such things as an ordinary FullFat, an ordinary cat or too many tools)
2011 TDV8 Vogue Santorini Black
Gap IIDBT

I've been looking at my photo again and I sense that I have been a dork.

The pointy end must go in the door as the photo shows the door card  Cheers
Richard

(there are no such things as an ordinary FullFat, an ordinary cat or too many tools)
2011 TDV8 Vogue Santorini Black
Gap IIDBT

Just a thought and I haven't tried this yet on my FFRR...

On other vehicles when removing these clips, using a heat gun to very gently warm up the plastic can really make the removal job easier and increase the chances of reusing them (heat makes the plastic more... plastic!)

Not easy to explain this bit...Powerful UK video said the crux of reassembly was reconnecting the door release cable/connector to the interior door handle. They didn't really film this bit.

What I found was that there is a recess in the handle (door card) that allows one to push the connector just past where it connects and locates to the inside of the handle, sort of pushing the cable connector's pointier end into the door card more...this then makes it simple to reconnect the linkage. I know that's not particularly clear. There is a knack to it that once you get it, it's not so tricky.

Resurrecting this thread, can anyone confirm this is the correct cable? Seems far too cheap for a Range Rover!

https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/fse00004...6834-p.asp

Also, is it advisable (necessary?) to disconnect the battery beforehand?

Thanks in advance 2011MY 4.4TDV8 Autobiography Baltic Blue
TVR Griffith
Alfa Romeo Mito QV