My intention was to PM Mickey on this subject, but it seems I must post 3 posts first, so I'll ask here.
I'm about to pull the trigger on i high milage (160k) 2007 TDV8, which as far as I can tell, still has the original turbos.
Is there a way to get an idea of the TC condition before buying? Blue smoke? Checking actuator movement? High gear/high load and wait for fault codes?

The cost for OEM TC's these days? Figure I'll probably replace them in a not so distant future, before it desintegrates into the engine.

The car's been used for long drives the last 9 years.

The turbos aren't necessarily the issue (although they can be), more likely the EGR valves (these disintegrate and destroy the turbos and engine)

The actuator links on the turbos can get stiff and do need lubrication, I understand you can visually check these (on my list to do)

Cost is @ £600-700 per turbo, but you can get them refurbished for less, there is a link on here, somewhere, for a workshop in London that does them for @ £300-400 each. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

While I haven't bought the car, I've already ordered the EGR blanks to block these.

I've also understood these can be checked, but would've been nice to know where to start looking, as this'll happen on a parking lot outside the airport. They're supposed du move full movement when ignition is turned on, yes?

£700 is not so bad if thats brand new OEM TCs.

Double it if you get a garage to fit  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Probably triple on this side of the pond.
I'll do the work my self, so in due time I'll be looking for a DIY or workshop manual procedure.

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic17623-90.html

2010 workshop manual from the wiki. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

Much appreciated.

It's a good idea to have the induction system cleaned also. This will remove carbon deposits on the EGR system and the turbo blades: mainly on the ends due to centrifugal forces, I believe these deposits ultimately start the vibration/wear that leads to failure of the turbo.

From what I understand and have read etc. changing both turbos properly requires dropping the entire engine/gearbox/subframe assembly out of the bottom of the car. People say you can do the right hand (UK drivers side) turbo with engine in the car but the other side is impossible.
A recent enquiry to a reputable independent LR expert quoted between £2.5 and £3K to do the job, or quite a bit more if you buy LR replacement turbos.
Not for the faint hearted! Previously a 2008MY Tonga Green Vogue SE 3.6 TDV8

Laurie915 wrote:

It's a good idea to have the induction system cleaned also. This will remove carbon deposits on the EGR system and the turbo blades: mainly on the ends due to centrifugal forces, I believe these deposits ultimately start the vibration/wear that leads to failure of the turbo.

I used Revive induction cleaner on mine. ______________________________
Vogue tdv8 08MY poverty pack - wow

Yup its easily a £3000 job. If you take it to LR you can add a few more £££ to that

Midland turbos are a great place to get your turbo's rebuilt their turnaround time is very quick and they provide a full failure report etc... 2011 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography

I used midland and they did both the turbos completely and other bits on them and i sourced two genuine brand new egrs and all done for the lot inc fitting etc and back on my drive was 2800 _____________________________________________________
Zambezi silver Vogue Se unique

I finally got around to removing the bottom IC-hoses for inspection.
Left side was perfectly dry, but the right side had 2-3 ml of engine oil inside.
Any thoughts on the remaining life span of the TCs? Anyone checked theirs? 2007 L322 3.6 TDV8 Stornoway

I looked at mine when I was worried about possible rh turbo trouble. The bottom hose had virtually no oil in it. Didn't check the left one to compare. At that time the car had done around 120K miles. Both EGRs were replaced at about 114K. The problem I was having with the car - P023D code from memory - turned out not to be turbo related. Now at 129K. Previously a 2008MY Tonga Green Vogue SE 3.6 TDV8