I worked on a farm when was a kid and drove a little grey Ferguson I think it was, started it by pushing the gear stick over and pushing a button on the transmission with your foot, a 35 and a 135.

The 6170 is a great tractor i bet, it looks similar to a Case 1694 I used to drive when i went onto a bigger farm but that was a nice piece of kit but still love my Dads 35.

There must be a sliding scale of reliability with a MF35 at one end and an L322 at the other.

yeah right can get very fustrating.

All part of the fun I guess .....

Thanks for the extensive contribution, guys!

For sake of good order, let's recap:

- I have replaced the starter solenoid (confirmed to work on bench and vehicle)
- Battery is a box fresh 110Ah beast and terminals are tight
- I do not get any voltage to the crank signal cable on solenoid when turning key
- There is 12V on (respective part of fuse holder) fuse #2 (lower), #5 (lower), #34 (upper) and #45 (upper)
- I have confirmed that there is 12V on both red cables feeding the ignition switch
- Vehicle starts without a breeze when shorting across the battery feed (R) and crank signal (BY)
- There is no physical blockage from turning key with shifter in other gear than P (N, D or R)
- Steering lock disengagement and transponder communication with immobilizer ECU seem to function well

I tried to bypass the ignition switch by using wires in the contact itself and was able to energize the 2nd key position/auxiliary (R to G), but still no action on the cranking (R#1 to G + R#2 to BY). Some of the starting circuit diagrams leaves out that there is a 5th cable going from the ignition switch, but I see now that this plays a role in communicating with the immobilization ECU (through fuse #39). Is the switch setup to where both these wires (green and purple) should have constant 12V in auxiliary position on ignition? If this is indeed not the case, it seems the immobilization ECU is the culprit somehow.

Today I wired up a provisional start switch so that I at least can use the car without messing about under the hood.

OK, one step at a time, you have probably done this but look at notes on attached and confirm.

PIMCO wrote:

I tried to bypass the ignition switch by using wires in the contact itself and was able to energize the 2nd key position/auxiliary (R to G), but still no action on the cranking (R#1 to G + R#2 to BY). Some of the starting circuit diagrams leaves out that there is a 5th cable going from the ignition switch, but I see now that this plays a role in communicating with the immobilization ECU (through fuse #39). Is the switch setup to where both these wires (green and purple) should have constant 12V in auxiliary position on ignition? If this is indeed not the case, it seems the immobilization ECU is the culprit somehow..

ignition switch has 3 positions, auxiliary, ignition and crank as you know.

Auxiliary and ignition positions are fed by fuse 53 jointly

when key in auxiliary position the purple /black wire from the ignition switch feeds fuse 39, fuse 39 then feeds position 11 of connector 0059 - the immobiliser ECU and that same purple / black wire splits of and feeds position 11 of the steering lock ECU

when the key is in the ignition position - fuse 31 is fed via a green wire which in turn feeds position 10 of the steering lock ecu.

when the key is is n the crank position as previous post fed by 60 amp fusible link 2, the black and yellow wire feeds position 2 of the immobiliser c0059 connector which in turn feeds the starter motor via a black wire from position 1 of the immobiliser ecu connector c0059

Simple as that !!


I'm sorry I cant get this any clearer, trying saving it to your desktop maybe.

This is zoomed in a bit and screen shot but still looks crap

Thanks for the diagrams and excerpts!

Yep, both red cable going into the ignition switch have 12V constant (as they should). I did short across R and BY in the switch (no action). Then across R and G by which the instruments/dashboard lit up (as they should). Then I tried both simultaneously, which did not make a difference. I did not however take into account the purple cable. As you point out it gives a signal to the immobilizer ECU in the auxiliary position, but give the progression of turning the key I guess this apply constant voltage when the key clicks back to this position after cranking (i.e. it's a requisite for cranking)?

Is the immobilization ECU programmed to the vehicle or generically replaceable?

I would assume that the immobilizer is okay since it's actually allowed to start (i.e. otherwise signal to fuel pump, e.g. would be blocked to the ECM via the immobilizer ECU)?

What's LR's term for neutral safety switch and how do I diagnose this?

The immobiliser will only allow the crank when all parameters have been met which will be key code, neutral or park etc all which feed into the EWS immobiliser and only when it gets everything it needs it will allow the crank. You need to start with the above and confirm all of those feeds work and in the correct key position and then if that is all ok you can move on to what else might be missing as far as feeds into the immobiliser.

The EWS is paired to your vehicle and would need TestbookT4 Faultmate etc to program a new one. Before looking at a new EWS emobiliser you need to check what is going in and what is or isn’t coming out.
I can only see you will solve this by methodically going through each wire or supply that can influence the crank signal coming out of the EWS and going to the starter motor.

I would have thought auxiliary feeds stay live once you move to the ignition position.

I believe the neutral position switch is the transmission inhibitor switch or sensor, I’m not at home to check

I think you mean this
&t=0h0m7s

Does your dash show park light ?
I would need to check but the inhibitor probably feeds the EWS as well but I would confirm the feeds we have already discussed first but your call of course

The EWS-3D immobiliser is more than than just an immobiliser, this is from black box solutions who make the faultmate

https://blackbox-solutions.com/help/SM044.html

Any luck or are you sticking with the switch starter?

Apologize for my delayed reply.

I have been using the car with the "hotwired" switch and just purchased a nice looking start switch with the intention of a permanent install. However, before that, I had time to continue measuring along the circuit and found 12V out of the ignition switch, both up- and downstream of the immobolizer module, which only left a contact and the remaining cable to starter. Lo and behold, I find the culprit in the E-box - an aftermarket GPS tracker and remote kill-switch which was spliced into the wiring with an external relay that had gone bad.

Who woulda thunk?

Thanks a bunch for your guidance through this arduous endeavor!

Now onto bigger and better mistakes from this wonderful automobile - even before I managed to fix the problem, the front air suspension collapsed on me..

Good news, thanks for updating the thread, well done for persevering. I was hoping you would trace it, when you said you didn’t have a feed going to the starter it was just a case of following it back from there I guess but your extra tracker and immobiliser didn’t show up on any of the wiring diagrams
The L322 brings great joy when you finally fix it - until next time ...

Yeah, exactly - I had no reason to suspect that sucha thing would be installed. I guess it's kind of a cool gimmicky feature. But I'd venture to guess there is no way of hacking the EWS and stealing these cars without a key, so kind of overkill, no?

Actually would be a blessing in disguise if someone stole the car

The security is very good but I’m sure with the right electronics somebody would crack it but hard to believe as they are hard enough to start when you have the key, secondly , why would anyone steal one !

Hehe, true that. I guess it was a more relevant when these were still rolling off the assembly line.

And on the note of future problems, is there anything one can/should proactively do to inhibit potential impending faults? My main concern is perhaps the steering lock/key barrel ticking time-bomb?

You can certainly manage all impending faults, selling it quickly is the best way
The key won't turn is a common fault although not guaranteed to happen, i do have a more permanent solution somewhere that i will post up if I can find it, it is on a forum somewhere.
I would just drive it and maintain it and eventually you will run out of things to replace