Todays update. And work on the Rangie ( L322 TD6 ) I very nearly have the Turbo out.. what a ball ache it is to get to. I ran out of light and time.. Its currently stuck in the bay but unbolted.. I just need to figure out how to get it out. I may yet need to remove the exhaust manifold too. I did try earlier but snapped a torx driver trying to get the EGR gubbins unbolted,so that kind of put the spanner in the works.

Just for reference of any one else who does this in the future, engine cowling needs to come off... inlet manifold off, injectors removed ,... rocker cover and air box off (one piece item - STUPID BMW!) . Then you can get to the turbo. As I say unbolted , so may yet need the exhaust manifold off, unless I can get it out underneath.

Once it is out its off to Turbotechniques , hopefully they can overhaul it finger crossed.

td6.? good job you did not have a tdV8 theirs 2 turbo's to remove.

Just out of curiosity, elpeede, how many miles on your car? 
RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr,
P38, and 2 L322s
(wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too)

77 Thou. I have had it since 59 Thou. nearly three years. I got up real early and got the manifold off having dug out another torx driver. Three studs came out with the nuts from the exhaust manifold. No chance of getting the turbo out with it in situ

I dropped the Kids and Mrs off at work then flirted down to Turbo Techniques in Northampton. I've left it with them to strip down and give a once over. Initialexamination at the counter and the actuator wasn't moving as far as it should and the chap said this tied in with the symptoms I have been having.

There was also play in the shaft / bearings which could easily be felt.

The filter at the top of the rocker cover was change at the last service, or at least I was billed for it. It was also changed a few weeks back when I had the Injectors done.

Frustating that the injectors had to come out this time too and I could have done the lot but I was not sure they would all come out ok as they have form for siezing in to the block apparently.

Anyway there you go. I should get a phone call later or Monday and free carriage back. I was hoping for a quick turnaround today but the place is massive and clealry very busy. I used them in the past with a Classic RR Turbo and they were honest enough to say they couldn't find a problem.

The recent issue with mine is that it had a high pitched whistle at around 1600rpm up to around 2400 rpm. This has been getting louder and more pronounced. Its also felt a little flat as far as power is concerned, but maybe that is phsycological. We'll see.

Todays update...

Call from Turbo Techniques to say that the Turbo is in remarkably good condition generally however was heavily carboned up around the mechanisim for the actuator flap within the housing. This is what they believe was causing the whistle. They are replacing bearings and seals and hopefully it will be back for the end of the week by courier for £280 all in. I'm well chuffed with that as non genuine knock around at £700 upwards and genunine at £1400. I reckon I'd have said goodbye to over £2000 if Landrover had done this work. I got a set of new exhaust manifold nuts and studs, and four new washers for the banjo bolt... I need one but always pays to have one on the shelf or three (I lost one). Hopefully won't be too long and the FFRR will be on the road again. Then its in for autobox fluid and filter change at the local auto specialist. Again a job that could be done at home but they have quoted a price that makes it a nonsense to spend two hours on my back struddling with the size of the RR.

Last night I cleaned out the EGR Valve while it is off to remove any crud and prevent future problems. I'll clean the inlet manifold as far as I can prior to a refit too. It really is amazinghow much muck there is in there.. its got to be putting a strangle on the inlet slowly.

Meanwhile my old 110 CSW is pressed in to duty as run about, normally reserved for DIY tasks and play or Caravanning when we take the dawgs.

The FFRR always had a Psstttttt when you took the foot off the throttle prior to these problems, like a dump vavle on chavtastic Scoobies only quieter. It'll be interesting to see if the Pssstttt is still there or if that was a build up to the whistle.. I was the second owner so don't know if the Pssstttt was from the factory.

Very interested in your adventures as mine will follow as soon as it’s recovered from the dealer for the diff recall and suspension repair. I also have the psst after acceleration and the mechanics all said it’s from the turbo and it is normal. Oh and please post more tips/pictures that help with removal of the turbo. Good luck!

Will do.. though they may be in reverse I was trying to video the removal but the battery ran out on my spy cam I can do a video talking through when partially reassembled I guess

There's several pages in RAVE about the removal of the turbocharger.

Step 1: Remove Exhaust front pipe....

Guessing you have this already and seen it all.

Greta post BTW, keep it coming, good to hear someone's experience and the gotcha's Discovery 4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF
1982 Series 3 Hard Top

*Gone:L462 D5 HSE LUX, L663 Defender 110 HSE, Discovery 3 HSE, 2014MY Range Rover Sport 5.0 Supercharged AB Dynamic; L405 Exec Vogue SE 4.4, 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography, Defender TDCi XS CSW, Defender TD5 HT, Vogue SE TDV8, Vogue TD6, RRSport SC 4.2V8, Classic 3.9 Vogue Auto, Land Rover Series 3 SWB

Exactly, it's mostly the gotcha's I'm after, as RAVE is often detailed about simple procedures and leaves you in the dark in crucial moments...

Sounds like School Sex Education lessons! Discovery 4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF
1982 Series 3 Hard Top

*Gone:L462 D5 HSE LUX, L663 Defender 110 HSE, Discovery 3 HSE, 2014MY Range Rover Sport 5.0 Supercharged AB Dynamic; L405 Exec Vogue SE 4.4, 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography, Defender TDCi XS CSW, Defender TD5 HT, Vogue SE TDV8, Vogue TD6, RRSport SC 4.2V8, Classic 3.9 Vogue Auto, Land Rover Series 3 SWB

Video of the refit and some pointers

What can I say!

Pardon the odd out of shot moments , its all done on a £15 spy camera off ebay! (For which I have a thread here to thank for that )

It's not rocket science, about 8 hours work for the turbo off an on.. with of course the delay for the refurb in between.

On the refit I managed to leave an injector slack which caused the engine to miss on one cylinder, At 55 mph upward the vibes were as though driving over a rumble strip. Striped them all down , fouind one injector mucky. Reinstalled and refitted and all is fine!

£284 for the turbo to be reconditioned , new bearings and seals and actuator ungunked.
£20 for a set of exhaust manifold studs and new nuts (only needed three studs but hey!)
£3 worth of latex gloves

Saved about £2000 I reckon as dealer would have just fitted a new turbo at £1400 , rest would have been labour.

This is awesome, thank you very much! So I suppose all the problems are gone? No more whistle? No more psst after acceleration? Actually, what causes the psst? I have recovered the car with suspension faults (hopefully) fixed and next week I’ll start looking into the injector and turbo problems. By the way, the engine diagnose showed: P0314 – Cylinder balance control - l-component deviation outside limit. They said this proves injector no. 4 is faulty…

Glad to be of assistance... sorry it doesn't include the strip down but as they say... strip down is reverse of reinstallation in this case. The EGR valve can actually be left attached to the inlet manifold.. just undo the jubilee type clamp on the EGR pipe and the vac hose. If you want to clean the EGR it can then be removed much simpler than when the inlet is attached to the engine.

The Psstt is back where it was before Whistle is bact to how it should be. The main thing for me is that it isn't going to kill its self on its own engine oil... worth while doing just for the reassurance.

Interestingly, even with the slack injector (slack enough not to hold compression) I didn't show any visible faults on the dash but it was clear something was amiss.

The connector at the back of the inlet you need to press the spring clip in towards the plug then pull the plug down at the same time.

If I think of anything else I'll let you know.

Just in case anyone finds this on google, it's an old thread i know, the turbo comes out from underneath as in Rave after removing the complete exhaust from the turbo back as it's only 3 bolts plus the two on the turbo outlet. Very easy to do and no need to remove intake manifold

Last edited by holidaychicken on 12th Mar 2018 8:09am. Edited 1 time in total

Yes, a totally overcomplicated way of doing it!