Replacing rear camera insid the unit. Tested/failed. Pics | |
So, having read a number of threads and pages on the topic and having spent hours already with a soldering iron and the original unit I gave up and bought a cheap replacement CMOS camera from ebay.
A little back ground first.
1) Bought the car. Reverse camera didn't work at all. Took it apart, saw that the plug onto the PCB was properly flaky and moving it around seemed to restore picture. So, I resolved to solder the wires straight onto the PCB - it's small fiddly and I need glasses but dont have any. I also dont have the steady hand needed for such fine soldering. But it worked. Kind of. My soldering was poor enough that the wires would jiggle and occaisonally short circuit. I went through a few fuses. I opted to give it to an garage who said they had the ability to solder it. After they had had it it never ever worked again and all I had was a blank screen with the warning message, not even for a moment did i ever see an image agine. I could say I am furious, but I realise patience with this car is a better approach.
I double checked the garage hadn't wired it up incorrectly. They hadn't, it all looked like it should.
So, new camera arrived today. One of these:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141918317810
I had read that i needed an NTSC so this is what I went for. It fits nicely into the existing camera housing.
I cut the plugs off the new and the old camera wires and soldered them to each other enabling connections from the new camera to use the old plugs and plug straight onto the existing connections.
There was: +ve power, -ve power, shield and signal. All quite straight forward. When I cut the signal plug off I took the assumption that from the signal plug that the black wire was the shield and the yellow was the signal.
Also, I had to twist the camera shield and power ground connection together. Not sure if this is my problem.
Now, when I use the hidden test menus, and set it to NTSC, I can see the parking lines, but not the image. Parking lines is an improvement, I have never seen those before, even when the old camera did occasionally work.
Setting it to PAL makes it worse.
If I disconnect the shield then the screen goes black/blank. Which to me suggests that maybethe problem after the garage had made things worse may have just been a poor shield connection. Gutted....because I had to rip apart the old camera to get it out of the housing so I could fit the new one.
Can anyone shed any light on this please or make any suggestions? If I have to buy another cheap camera to test, that is ok, it was only £6.99. However, I am sure many of you know how it can niggle when something isn't working/right, and then to spend time and money and it not be better is really messing with my OCD. Would really appreciate time help.
Thanks
Mark
Ebay ad details for when the ad is no longer available:
Specification:
Lens: 2.0cm
Color: Black
TV System: NTSC
S/N Ratio: >48dB
Net Weight: 128g
Water-proof: IP66
Power: DC 12V±10%
White Balance: Auto
Camera Size: 22*21mm
Sync. System: Internal
Video Cable Length: 6.0m
Video Output: 1.0Vpp, 75Ohm
Length Angle: 120~170 degree
Cable Length of Camera: 59cm
Scanning System: 2:1 Interlace
Power Supply Cable Length: 41cm
Image Reverse: Left-right mirror
High grade of waterproofing: IP66
Horizontal Resolution: 420 TV lines
Effective Pixels: NTSC: 510(H) * 492(V)
Current Consumption: No More Than 300mA
Image Sensor: CMOS 1/4 MT9V125 or PC1030, color
Minimum Illumination: 0.2 Lux/ F1.8(0 Lux with LED)
Storage Temperature: -30℃ to + 60°C, 95% RH maximum
Operating Temperature: -20℃ to + 60°C, 95% RH maximum
Electronic Shutter: 1/50 to 1/100,000 seconds, 1/60 to 1/100,000 seconds
Installation:
1.Mount the camera inside the keyhole of your vehicle.
2.Adjust the lens of the camera to its best position.
3.Connect power cord to connect to your vehivle DC 12V power system.
4.Connect the video output(yellow) of the camera to the display in your vehicle.
Package Included:
1 X Video Cable
1 X Power Cable
1 X User Manual
1 X Car Rear View Camera
|