Hi all,

I'm getting the dreaded "battery low start engine" warning all too frequently now so am going to actually replace the battery. It's probably the original so has done 6+ years. I'm fairly handy with a spanner so was wondering if it was a DIY job to replace the battery on a 2011 L322 5L Supercharged or worth taking to the dealer/specialist?

Also, which battery is the best to go for, i.e. what is the OEM or is there a better option?

Thanks folks.

Done mine more than once or twice L322 TD6 should be the same shut stuff down as per on here (Search it) and put bonnet to service position. Remove earth first and replace last, undo and remove clamp have someone hold all leads as clear as poss and lift with back straight of course its all very tight but do able with care and patience. Remember to put steering full lock left to right to reset.

Not a job for lesser men than me thou

I think it depends on the battery, have a search on here as its been covered. From memory and I stand to be corrected, some models of 322, notably the 4.4tdv8 have a charging system which needs to be told that a new battery has been fitted. Its pretty easy to physically change it, but if it needs coding then its an IID tool or diagnostic job. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
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Dickie

I recently replaced the battery on my MY11 5.0SC so it is doable at home. Having said that, it is not quite as straightforward as on earlier cars because there is a CPU/ECU fitted just in front of the battery that has to be moved out of the way first.

I used the following excellent thread for guidance: http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic43662.html

That is for a 4.4 TDV8 but it is a very similar story for the 5.0SC. Make a note that you will need a 5-point security bit set to remove the CPU/ECU.

When fitting a new battery to any vehicle I own, I usually hunt around to find the highest capacity battery that will physically fit but on these cars, space is very tight and there is no opportunity to fit a beefier battery. Also, the batteries fitted to these later cars are of the AGM type so it is important that the replacement is also an AGM.

My car was originally fitted with a Varta 12V 95AH 850A - Model number CX23-10655-AA (019)

You can find good deals online for alternatives via mail order from the likes of Tayna but returning a faulty battery under warranty is generally a nightmare. So my advice would be to buy from somewhere you can physically take it back to, even if you pay a bit more initially.

I bought my battery from Duckworth parts because I was already ordering brake discs/pads and Dan has always offered great pricing and fast delivery. The battery was delivered to me via a courier but I have a friend who lives locally to Duckworths who can return it in the event of a warranty claim.

The new battery supplied from Duckworths is an Excide 12V 90AH 850A - Model number GX73-10655-BD which Dan assures me is what is now the official Land Rover part for our cars. I think I paid £205 delivered.

As mentioned previously, you will need an IID tool or other suitable diagnostics tool to tell the car you have fitted a new battery. Apart from that, I recommend another pair of hands to keep the CPU and battery cables out of the way while you manhandle the battery into the compartment.

Hope that helps.

Mark

Awesome help Mark, thanks very much. I've not got a IID tool though sadly so I may have to consign this one to a dealer/indi to do, although I'll certainly give Duckworth parts a shout (the came up trumps with discs and pads for my old L405)

Ever since I got my car it has given that warning so I contacted the guys at GAP who said ignore it. I have for two years, it has always started no problem but the battery can't cope with the doors being left open for long hence the interior lights on maybe its time to find and fit those LEDs I bought ages ago  Geoff