2006 TD6 3.0.

I am having a problem with my key not turning in the ignition which is possibly key or steering column related but that is a different thread so i thought i would start a new one as the other thread is turning into an epic tale and this just relates to my alarm problem.

After losing all keys, I now have a genuine keyfob key from landrover that i need to sync to enable me to shut off the alarm but even though i can get the ignition to position 1, by disconnecting / reconnecting the column ECU, to initialise the procedure, the alarm is going off the whole time which i think is preventing the sync process working.

Is there a way of turning off the alarm like the Emergency Key Access procedure where the key code is entered via the drivers door or any other method using the key or otherwise does anyone know please?

I think i have bigger problems as i believe the alarm should stop when I put the key in the ignition but it doesn't.

Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks
Andy

Wow - an unfortunate situation that the cylinder breaks &lose the keys at the same time.

IIRC you need to turn the key to silence the alarm - can't remember if you need to start the car, or just turn on the electrics.

Sounds like you're in a bit of a catch-22 now......

Hi, thanks for the reply, turning the key works on my 04 but it's not working for the 06 but i think it could be the other faults causing the new alarm button to not sync and the alarm to continue, i don't think having the siren unplugged should upset it ?

For a long time we have been thinking the key must not have been programmed correctly but it was only when I realised the steering lock wasn't working that i looked into it further.

i only thought the steering locks got stuck on but they do fail off as well so i may be taking the column apart.
Going to try snap on diagnostics today to see if that finds anything and failing that i will probably buy a cable for my faultmate and transfer the license over to the 06 temporarily and see if that can reset the alarm.

I was going to suggest using one of the diagnostic tools to switch it off, but I was obviously right, in thinking it would be like teaching you to suck eggs. Is there no-one near you with an 'open' faultmate , save you have to change yours over?

P.s Ref : 'I think i have bigger problems as i believe the alarm should stop when I put the key in the ignition but it doesn't'. I know it's a long shot BUT could your bonnet be out of alignment? I read somewhere, once upon a time, about the bonnet sensor being a bit sensitive at times. Not sure if it helps at all but you've helped me plenty of times, so willing to try to give back

P.p.s Also found this with ref to a 'corroded multi wire' http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-range-r...start.html

There can only be one Gold Rover surely ?

The guy who's RR it is has paid for the lead and will also pay for the license transfer so that's good news and i haven't checked the bonnet switch but i have heard they can cause problems so it is worth a look.
The faultmate settings I can hopefully change are shown on the attached which is a fairly comprehensive list..
I should be able to interrogate the steering lock ECU as well.

The emergency disarm procedure is also in Rave but has to be enabled to work. i tried it and it didn't work but i may be able to change the setting shown on the attached.

This is my Gold Rover, there are many like it but this one is mine
My Gold Rover is my best friend. It is my life. I will never master her as she has mastered my life.
Without me, my Gold Rover is useless. Without my Gold Rover, I am useless. Heck even with her I am useless.......

Methinks by now you have realised it is I You may run (even if your RR won't) but you cannot hide.

As we both know by now sometimes the simplest thing can cause the biggest headaches. Fingers crossed for your friend's that this may be the case.

A great film and an even better Round !!
The problem with my friends started (even if his RR didn't) when he lost all his keys and Captain Useless came out to 'program' him a key and it hasn't worked since.

Sadly that is a cautionary tale, for those who believe they can get the keys programmed by indies. If the dealer was doubtful about being able to reprogramme my original key, how on earth can an indie programme a new one?

Got to love FMJ

Faultmate lead has arrived ...
Some of FMJ was filmed where I live and we walked down to watch the filming, my favourite film of all time

Last edited by holidaychicken on 6th Sep 2017 4:25pm. Edited 1 time in total

Good luck. Hope you get it sorted.

With all early l322 key issues, if when you offer up the ket to the barrel you do not hear any noises (gear lever and steering lock) most of the time it is a EWS (immobilizer) issue, I have been to cars that have had a professional key company make them keys or transponders for alot of money I then attend charge less than half the price and fix the car correctly

I know for a fact mine isn't an immobiliser problem, as the other key works without issue. It happened after taking too long when changing the battery. What was the main key no longer works and as stated earlier, even the main dealer couldn't get it to pair.
Just a good job the 'second' key still works.

Mine is definitely immobilised, still need to sort out the license on the faultmate but the snap on confirms this.

At least you now know that much

It's a bit basic for the L322, i have run an ECU scan with the faultmate to list what ECU's are present and it has at least managed to talk to them...
I noticed it has a fuel burning heater as well as if it didn't have enough problems